Member postings for Ian P

I miss John S all the time!

Ian P

Clive
Thanks for your kind (PM) offer but I have already sorted out all teh terminals I needed to use.

Stuart
Apart from the documentation teh VFD is as well manufactured and put together as I have seen on branded products, it worked straight out of the box once I connected the mains and motor, it was only connecting the switches and pot that caused the head scratching.

DC31K, Noel
I do not think anyone who came across this image on the internet could somehow make use of it to wire anything up. Even with the actual VFD (which I did not identify) I found the diagram bore no relation to what I had in front of me on the bench.

If we think diagram's P, PB, and the UVW motor terminal connections are badly labelled then what about the mains input! I would say that since the L1, L2 and L3 are only shown (in random positions) on the diagram and not on the VFD own terminals then anyone unfamiliar with this type of product might not even be able to get mains into it. On that basis I doubt leaving this image online can be any sort of risk.

As I said earlier, its all up and running although its built in fan is driving me mad!

The fan runs all the time the VFD is powered so I intend to add an electronic thermostatic with its sensor bonded to the VFD heatsink.

Ian P

I am fully aware of the 'you only get what you pay for' expression relating to purchasing cheap tools and equipment. I recently bought a VFD off Amazon mainly because I needed it quickly and my order placed very late in the afternoon arrived noon the next day. I could have got one from one of the respected well known UK suppliers but I imagine the lateness of me phoning them and the cost of next day delivery (even if it was possible to arrange) would be at a significantly higher cost than the Chinese cheapie now driving my lathe. (It cost £64 for a 2.2KW unit)

There is a downside to this bargain VFD, Its not quite plug and play!

Documentation accompanying many Chinese manufactured products has for a long time been known to be of poor quality, typically bad translation with spelling mistakes and often serious error and omissions. This VFD came with a small stapled booklet which is virtually all text (well tables of all the parameters etc) plus three diagrams, one of which is this one, I've done my best to enhance the contrast and fit the image to the available resolution on this site. The diagram seems to have been printed in grey and black ink with scant regard to registration and even less regard for accuracy.

Unusually there is not the usual 'quick install' or wiring guide and no views of the physical terminal blocks so the unsuspecting end user is left to their own devices. Being accustomed to VFD's in general I was able to connect the mains input and the three motor phases so was soon able to run the motor with the VFDs own panel. The fun starts when one wants to connect a remote pendant when the supplied diagram is not much help.

I was able to work out and get the remote controls operating and have no complaints about my purchase now but I just wanted to point out to anyone on here that its sometimes spending a little more (probably double in my care) to get a recognised brand of product that comes with support.

Ian P

Edit, apologies for somehow inserting the image twice

Edited By Ian P on 12/04/2023 17:34:49

I tried "error code eep" as you suggested and it does return lots of hits, It seems "eep" is used by numerous manufacturers to indicate a memory or processor problem which usually requires the replacement of a PCB (not a realistic option on a Huanyang VFD).

Out of interest Michael, try putting 'eep code' in Google, The first result I get asks me if I meant 'epp code'

I posted originally after I had searched for 'huanyang eep error' and multiple other similar search strings to see if there was known solution. I eventually (actually fairly quickly) came to the conclusion that I was fighting a losing battle. I hate throwing things away and often waste a lot of time trying to resurrect low value items that are just not designed to be repairable. In this VFD the PCB containing the control (rather than the power electronics) has a very thick, epoxy like, conformal coating which makes even inspecting the components very difficult.

The replacement 2.2KW VFD (£64 next day from Amazon) is now up and running although the supplied documentation is really bad even taking the low price into account. I had to resort to trial and error, and some luck when it came to connecting the remote wiring.

Ian P

None of my searches for "EEP" code returned anything useful, in fact Google repeatedly changed my search term to EPP (lots of results but not really relevant).

I've tried the power off and on again technique but the error is firmly ensconced.

Replacement VFD is arriving by Amazon tomorrow and once the lathe is up and running I will have a look inside the faulty unit in case there is something obvious (like an eprom falling out of its socket), otherwise its WEE.

Ian

Went in the workshop today to use the lathe and before I even selected run the VFD was showing an error code that is not listed in the manual.

Its a 2.2KW version (HY02D223DS) and has worked flawlessly from new (about 7 years) for most of that time has been powered up 24 hours a day and I just use the remote pendant to operate.

A quick Google did not produce any fixes and I only got a couple of hits where other users deduced the EEP code referred to faulty eprom or processor.

Not being hopeful that I could just do a repair I have ordered a new Huanyang VFD (I was surprised by the wide range of prices for what look like identical examples, I went for the cheapest!

Has anyone here had the same error code?

Ian P

I too found the report technically very interesting, but its got me thinking.....

It makes complete and utter sense to find the cause of a failure or an accident so that we can learn from our mistakes but who pays the bill for the whole investigation process?

Stress cracks, fatigue, fretting, corrosion etc occur in vehicles other than aircraft, would I be wrong in assuming that they only become candidates for serious investigations because aircraft components are always highly stressed due to weight constraints. Not many road vehicle engines suffer catastrophic damage these days.

Ian P

Me being curious thought I would see who Pete was referring to, however.......

There are two members with one album picture who have posted in this thread but neither have any pictures in their albums.

How does that work?

Ian P

That needs an explanation.

I very rarely use WD40 on anything and I dont even have any in the workshop at the moment but why single out brass?

First thought is that you're going to need a lot of links!

If you doing this at 1:1 scale then (from memory of the picture) the links each look about 12" long so whatever they are going to be made from will need a fair amount of raw material.

Paper mache comes to mind as being fairly cheap, creating a mould or former for a closed link is one thing, but producing the links would be a slow process unless you had several moulds.

Another thought, what about vacuum forming front and back halves using a hot air gun and thin 'blister' pack type material, then paint.

Ian P

But presumably useful for other purposes than checking rail inclines! The 1in 60 Noel mentioned is less than one degree.

Out of interest does Dollars device have a steel ball running in a curved track?

Ian P

One thing that puzzles me about this inclinometer is the Worthpoint description connecting is use to underground coalmine railway systems.

My understanding of railway design is that locomotives can only work over a fairly limited range of gradients (except for rack or cable drawn) so why would a clinometer for mine use need to cover 90 degrees?

Ian P

As far as I can recall each 7 segment display is soldered to the main PCB as are 95% of all the components and keypad switches. So a large PCB and the PSU module are the two main contents of the enclosure.

Since the fault is affecting the top segments of only one section of the display the fault is not likely to be just in one character. Probably all the top segments in that row will be connected to the same PCB track and connected to a pin on whatever chip is driving them.

Careful inspection (with a very strong loupe) of the soldered joints on the PCB might be rewarding.

Ian P

If Dell's topslide casting is anything like the two that Michael linked to then reducing its over height by 2mm, or even a bit more should be no problem and the reduction in rigidity would not even be noticed. My understanding of Myfords is that some models are marginal on toolholder to centreline distance so only relatively small HSS bits can be used.

Shaving a few mm off the top face will increase the range of toolbit sizes that will be usable.

As it happens the toolpost holes in Michaels pictures look larger than 11mm

Myford part Clive mentioned is on Page 2 of his link

Ian P

If you are prepared to mill off 2mm then opening up the 11mm hole should be a doddle.

Actually there is no need to enlarge the hole, An M10 threaded stud will pass through into a tapped hole in a part you press into the counterbore (that exists?) on the underside of the moving part of the topslide.

Ian P

I suggested imperial only because of the finer pitch (and have not researched Dell's postings) which would give better thread engagement

Tee nut is what I was suggesting with my stepped bush with threaded hole, the one thing we dont really know is whether its essential to take 2mm off the top of the topslide, plus it seems Dell is trying to make use of the parts and work he has done so far.

In the end its up to each individual to do a job to his/her own liking, certainly there is more than one way to skin a cat but to me, the two part stud is not the best solution.

Ian P

Edited By Ian P on 26/02/2023 21:06:34

I'm not precious about my machines but I don't think I would machine (or gets someone else to do it) 2mm off the thickness of a small lathe topslide.

It would be better to machine 2mm off the bottom of the centre post of the Multifix or possible counterbore the topslide hole 2mm deep so the Multifix post drops in.

Not knowing the Multifix product I dont know if the central post is hardened or whether its design would allow 2mm to be removed, but 1mm off the central hub and a 1mm counterbore in the slide would preserve strength/rigidity.

Based on your first drawing it looks like the topslide casting is more than 8mm thick, is that before you take off the 2mm?

With your two part post, tapping a shallow blind hole you are not going to end up with many threads engaged if its M10 coarse (its 1.5mm pitch). Since this is a Myford lathe 3/8"BSF (or 3/8" UNF) would be a better thread choice.

I still recommend making a stepped bush and inserting and standard hex bolt installed from the slide underside. In fact if the stepped bush had a tapped hole then the bolt could screw into that from the top (to hold the toolpost central block down.

Ian P

You say you did not want to bore the 'holder' out again but then say you have not done any boring. In any event what part are you referring to by 'holder'?

As I understand it the Multifix splined body is bolted to the topslide and is then permanently stays in the same place and does not need to be rotated.

IanP

If its not a daft question, why are you making the stud in two parts?

I admit I dont know the construction of the top slide (I assume you are shaving off 2mm to lower the toolpost) but if there is a hole in the compound with a counterbore accessible with the slide dismantled then some sort of stepped bush to hold a HT bolt might be an option.

The head of the bolt could be thinned and the bolt be a press fit into a shallow counterbored hole in the bush.

Ian P

I'm not that familiar with how planer blades are held within the rotating drum but if they are just in a slot and its only the pressure from the screw that prevents them being flung out by centrifugal force, then your idea of somehow removing the tip of the screw sounds good.

If there is nothing holding the blade besides the screw pressure (only two remaining now) can you get a wedge or use a screwdriver tip to lever up the the blade in its slot and gradually extract it. The exposed tip of the grubscrews might then be long enough to grip with narrow (or ground down) jaws of Mole type grips. You could then rotate then to screw the grubscrew further into its hole to loosen it and then remove the grubscrew by cutting it off in stages.

The drilling guides I suggested earlier do rely on there being a sufficient length of exposed thread above the butchered screw.

Ian P