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Member postings for Tony Ray

Here is a list of all the postings Tony Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Taps - What material?
27/04/2012 12:37:54

In my experience a used tap from a quality manufacturer does a better job than an unbranded new one.

For tapping & die-ing recommend Trefolex cutting compound, not cheap at around £13 a tin but 500ml will see out most of us - and you could always share it with your mates !

Thread: Metal finishing
27/04/2012 11:45:44

Thanks to Dias -pm sent.

Jason, generally lathe work is not a problem; its the unfinished eg on drawn BMS and finished side of milled items mainly.

Swarf, Dunno it will be intereseting to see what others think !

Tony

26/04/2012 13:10:02

Ok so I can now turn & mill things to reasonable accuracy but how do you get from an object that looks like it was made from BMS to something that looks like it belongs on whatever its fitted to. Or put another way 'that's a nice model of a train made of metal' to 'that's a train' ? None of the books I have thus far really cover the subject.

I'm rebuilding a Stent T&C grinder and whoever made it has taken a lot of care to get eg flat surfaces looking clean with crisp edges so I'm keen to make my new parts to the same standard. I don't mean the sliding surfaces - those have been surface ground.

Any pointers to web pages old MEW article books etc or advice would be much appreciated.

Tony

Thread: 'Super' Stent
06/06/2011 23:19:52
Roger,
 
Good luck with yours - yes that was helpful. I also liked your pics of your VMC stops - I have been thinking about doing something similar for my SX3. Perhaps you'll be tempted to post some pics of your Stent as it progresses ?
 
Tony
06/06/2011 23:17:16
Try Googling Kennet & you will end up in a canal ..
 
Tony
05/06/2011 18:38:04
Having just acquired a used Stent in need of some TLC I'm considering implementing most of the modifications described by Charles Woodward MEW 137.
 
Has anyone else carried out any of these mods ?
 
I'm relatively new to the hobby and am struggling to interpret the GA for the vertical raising element fig 3 pg 34 issue 137 - possibly also due to working from the digital archive. I had hoped that the author might have his own web page with further info / contact details but this appears not to be the case. A bigger image or a CAD file would really help me here.
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thread: Sieg Super X3 advice needed!
28/05/2011 01:41:26
Nic,
 
I have owned a Super X3 for about a year now. I did the prep myself based on the X3 prep guide on ARC'S website - there are a few differences but nothing too major. Its rated as a more complex prep by Arc but it's relatively straight forward. DO NOT attempt to strip the spindle ! I agree with Stewart - do it yourself
 
I have the R8 version - I like it as the taper release easily. I have an R8 ER32 but use the R8 collets in preference.
 
This is my first mill and I'll list the short comings as these are probably more informative than the positives.
 
1. Its not a Bridgeport - no suprises there !
 
2. The drawbar lightening / slackening method as supplied; you use a pin spanner at the collet end and a hex wrench at the drawbar end - its fiddly, awkward and can be hard to get good torque. But you can build something infinitely better using the mill and your lathe with just 4 simple components. PM me if you need more details.
 
3. Absence of a depth stop eg like on a drill press - again a little work with a lump of ally, some threaded studding a bit of bright angle & you are there
 
4. Column flex - viewed by many as the weakest part in that its open back allows some flexing - but not when you are being sensible.
 
5. Z axis leadscrew pitch is finer than the X3 to make raising the head a bit easier on the cranking arm but takes a while to crank up. On the web you will find solutions employing counterweights & pulleys - have not done it yet but I am tempted.
 
6. No powerfeed - again the info is on the web should you want to build one - mine will be based on a CNC design.
 
I had a problem with mine in that the motor stalled within a few days of running it - Arc were very helpful - I had probably over done it I sent the board back to them & was running again with a couple of days. Arc could not have been more helpful.
 
7. Tramming - because of the swivelling head resetting is tricky ( but I cut some 60 degree parts for a grinding rest and with it its a doddle) I'm still working on the best method for resetting tram & verifying but did it in less than 15 mins tonight.
 
8. Dial grads - X & Y are 0.02mm and are graduated from 0 to 90 ( 100 being 0 again) so you have to remember that eg 0 -90 is actually 1.8mm total travel. I'd prefer it graduated from 0 - 1.8mm similar to my Boxford. I'll probably make some dials one day ( If I don't DRO it in the meantime)
 
9. Supplied drill chuck run out is not good I need to replace it but use the ER 32 for accurate drilling.
 
10. Tapping mode is probably not as useful as it might seem.
 
11. Chuck guard - I removed mine & disabled the switch. I'm involved with H&S & consider that it was more of a risk than the swarf but I always wear Safety glasses.
 
12. As reported by others in appearance at least the Z gib strip looks poor - they report that reworking or replacing it makes things smoother but TBH I haven't and its OK .
 
13. Fine downfeed - is locked by turning a handwheel - it takes a bit of effort I called Arc when it would not work & it turned out I was not being manly enough !
 
14. Protection of the ways from swarf - bellows etc are available.
 
As far as the prep goes I'd allow a month, working in the evenings. Don't try to disconnect the two flexibles connecting the head to the control boards - you can remove the head and swivel it out of the way along with the back unit containing the boards.
 
I prepped min onthe pallet that it arrived on. I replaced the top Z axis bearing ( £3 or so) as it was gritty - Arc make us of a blind bearing puller I lashed something up & the bearing came out easily. The was a lot of casting sand / swarf in the main column so the strip down & adjustment was worthwhile. Once completed I hired an engine crane to lif it onto the bench - it might only be small but it is heavy !
 
Assuming you can't stretch to an Emco or something with European pedigree the other new choices are RF type machines which would appear to have their own drawbacks.
 
You might be able to get a used Raglan or some other compact machine but what will it cost, will it have a standard spindle taper, what condition will it be in what happens if something breaks ?
 
Spares for the Super X3 are almost off the shelf.
 
Do budget for tooling, clamps a vice etc - it all mounts up !
 
If possible try to get to see whatever you are considering before you buy.
 
Tony
Thread: Night School Classes
08/10/2010 04:51:18
Ian,
 
No help to you I'm afraid but for the benefit of others Eastleigh College in Hampshire occaisionally run th oned on Monday Eves. They need a minimum of 10 students currently there are 13 (I think)of us) John the tutor is very amenable and is happy to let more experienced ( you have to demonstrate competence  work on thier own projects.
 
They have 3 vertical mills,  6 ? (at least) 6" centre lathes a surface grinder, cylindrical grinder and the usual surface tables etc. They can also do a bit of welding - MIG I think.
 
 
They offer this for the autumn, winter & spring terms. I started last autumn but the course was not run again until this autumn.
 
 
Thread: Boxford slotted cross slide
08/10/2010 04:41:28
Alan,
 
Or if you want a nice project and you have access to a mill you could make one
 
 
I case you were not aware the Boxford is closne of the Southbend 9 in most respects - except for the headstock on which the Boxford is superior having taper roller bearings.
 
The chap who sells the castings could not have been more helpful.
 
I'm about 60% completed on mine but if you need to buy tooling to do it it's going to work out cheaper to buy one ready made.
 
Ton
Thread: myford boxford or colchester
14/03/2010 00:54:28
Ian,
 
As you know their are many Myford devotees and as a consequence they command serious money but acessories are widely available and seem for the most part fairly inexpensive. I went for a metric Boxford AUD and I am very pleased with it. The downside is that there are fewer options when looking for acessories and they are more expensive but as someone else said it is capable of industrial work.
 
Colchesters have a good reputation but do look at Harrisons There is one advertiser in MEW that has several M250's @£1500 ea.
 
Do think about whether you need to cut imperial and metric threads as running a metric Boxford is less straight forward than the other way around.
 
If money were no object I'd go for something that had both metric & imperial screwcutting and a clutch ( so you dont have to switch off to stop the work rotating)
 
Do consider the weight of the beast and how you will get it into place. I moved my Boxford by drilling through the cabinet & bolting two 100mm box sections at each end fitted with castors. - A Colchester is much heavier & you may need specialist help.
 
Good luck with your search
 
Tony
Thread: Information on a Gallenhamp Oven
03/02/2010 10:25:24
Vic,
 
Good to hear that you have a friend that can help you on the electrics side. You won't need a circuit diagram you friend will have no trouble working out its curreny setup and how to add a digital controller as mentioned by Gerald.
 
If you do go down this route make sure that you thermocouple is rated for your operating temp and is compatible with the controller.
 
Good luck
30/01/2010 00:17:30
Vic,
 
Good news then, I calculated that you might get to 1000 Celcius. You won't get to 1100 C but it may go a bit higher if you leave it longer. Your max temp will be limited by the power input and by the ambient temperature of your workshop. I would not run it unattended.
 
Heres an example of a modern one
 
 
The power input is not tooo far away from yours.
 
You'll need a 13 A fuse.
 
Think carefully about location and proximity of combustible materials especially solvents ans solvent vapours. I would fit a heat activated (rather than smoke) alarm.
 
I recommend that you invest in some suitable tongs, protective gloves and and wear eye protection - a face shield is best and stout footwear when taking anything in oor out of the hot chamber.
 
Have fun
 
Tony
 
 
27/01/2010 23:09:58
The Gallenkamp name has been in use since well before I started out in lab work nearly 30yrs ago. I'll bet that your oven is a silver grey colour with the logo in red or possibly silver on black.
 
What is it you need to know ?
 
There probably a silver disc in the top surface with a hole in it - this is where you can put a thermocouple.
 
Is there a temperature scale on the variable control ? or is it just marked eg 1 to 10 ?
 
A worthwhile upgrade would to be to fit a digital temperature controller that we what we did with our lab oven when it died.
 
What temperature do you need ? bearing in mind that amps x volts - watts you are looking at 1.5KW . If knew the internal volume of the oven I could guesstimate your likely max temp. If it were me I'd put in a temp probe & run it up to see what you get & make a table up to relate dial setting to temperature.
 
If you need to be up above 400 C then you will need a furnace rather than an oven.
 
Please bear in mind that if its quite old it could contain asbestos ! which will be OK as long as it is in good condtion & you don't start drilling it etc & making dust.
 
Tony
Thread: Woodwork Bandsaw
04/01/2010 23:01:39
Why not run the whole thing from an inverter ? Contact one of the companies advertising around the edge of this fourm page I am sure that they would be pleased to advise you of a suitable model and of its suitability for your application.
 
Tony
Thread: Metric Wiggler ?
27/10/2009 23:49:56
Can anyone tell me where I can get a metric wiggler - there are loads of imperial ones around but it seems a bit daft to have to use an imperial one on a metric mill.
 
Thanks
 
Tony
Thread: ER32 etc collets
11/09/2009 22:49:53
Thanks to you all for your input. I hadn't considered the disadvantages of the draw bar. I think that I'll go for a backplate mounted chuck & collets from CTC.
 
Regards
 
Tony
04/09/2009 23:32:45
Having decided that ER style collets offer advantages of 5C I'd apreciate some advice on the following
I have a Boxford with 3MT in the headstock but I see a lot of the collect chucks offered with a threaded back plate to go on the spindle nose. It seems to me that using the 3MT is a neater solution - do you agree ?
 
There seems to be quite a price range between fleabay and the known makes for collets / collet sets. Can anyone recommend anything at the cheaper end or are they best avoided ?
 
I currently have no idea about what sort of tolerance I require in terms of run out.
 
Thanks
 
Tony
Thread: Off hand grinder
04/09/2009 23:23:43
Can anyone suggest a make / source of a decent bench grinder ? I don't like cheap & nasty but equally don't want a Creusen either.
 
 
Is an 8" any real advantage over a 6"
 
I'll use it  for ginding HSS & carbide (with the right wheels) tools for my Boxford.
 
Thanks
 
Tony
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