Here is a list of all the postings duncan webster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Speedy Boiler |
20/12/2013 00:09:20 |
I can thoroughly recommend the Australian Model Boiler Code as a design guide. It is very well written, and complies with BS5500 (Unfired fusion welded Pressure Vessels), which is as near as British Standards gets to what we make.
Ignore all the rubbish quoted by 'those who know' about loco fireboxes being banned. Unfortunately I can't remember the e-mail of the chap I got my copy from, and it's no doubt out of date by now. |
Thread: electrical bonding aluminium track |
11/09/2013 08:52:19 |
Thanks guys, we've got some aluminium MIG welding wire and some goo specially formulated for bonding ally busbars. We're going to try ally pop rivets and I've made some ally washers for holding the wires on, so we don't have any dissimilar metals. I'll keep you posted, but wait till we've had a winter before getting too cocky!
Don't fancy solder as it's out in the field and we have plastic sleepers, visions of meled plastic everywhere |
Thread: Homebrew DRO |
11/09/2013 07:32:47 |
We've discovered that we managed to put an out of date version of the code on our website (**LINK**). At least 2 builders have discovered that if you use the code as published, the display only updates once per revolution. This is down to the arcane subject of integer arithmetic. If you're struggling, just change the line which says int Slots = 90; |
Thread: Paint removal |
01/09/2013 20:48:20 |
If caustic soda doesn't shift it try cellulose thinners. |
Thread: electrical bonding aluminium track |
01/09/2013 20:44:57 |
We're playing about with track circuiting our 5"g raised track. We've got it working on one length, and so we now need to electrically bond several lengths together (continuity across fishplates is very poor). The electrochemical potential between aluminium and copper is more than between ally and steel, so remembering the trouble with old landrover door tops, I imagine using copper wire might be a problem. Anyone got any advice/experience? |
Thread: To superheat or not to superheat, that is the question? |
16/08/2013 18:12:46 |
definatel;y superheat, friend of mine added effective superheat to his loco and massively reduced his water consumption at a given load, hence could pull a lot more for same water consumption. Water is free, but you have to turnit into steam! |
Thread: CHROME-VANADIUM STEELS |
24/07/2013 22:20:39 |
For those components I'd be amazed if bog standard mild steel wasn't strong enough. It worked on my 5"g locos, and hundreds of others. If you want something a bit stronger then EN8, but I can't see that it's necessary |
Thread: fairground organ |
07/07/2013 16:52:18 |
Reply within 5 minutes! This could well be the guy, I'll be contacting him directly.
Thanks |
07/07/2013 16:38:45 |
Whenever I visited Harrogate show there was always a guy trying to sell plans and electronics to build a model fairground organ, He seems to have disappeared. Anyone on got contact details, or anywhere else I can get info? |
Thread: speedy valve gear and drawings |
06/01/2013 23:51:42 |
If valve gear is built to LBSC dimensions the maximum cut off is quite small, which can occasionally give rise to difficulty starting. Both KNHarris and Don Young have published modifications to give longer full gear cut-off. |
Thread: Boiler Design |
05/10/2012 21:47:43 |
I agree, Australian code is very good, but avoid use of leaded bronze for silver soldered bushes |
Thread: Don Young's Rail Motor |
21/05/2012 23:01:24 |
That's stunning. Less than 12 hours and all you chaps have answered. Thanks to all who have replied. I have all bar 2 of 1968 and 1969 MEs in my attic, so i'll be digging them out tomorrow
Thanks again
Duncan |
21/05/2012 14:39:14 |
Does anyone know which issues of Model Enginner serialised the construction of Don Young's Rail Motor. I've tried the online index but failed completely. friend has bought one and it would be nice to have the articles to help in sorting out a couple of problems |
Thread: Swing link suspension |
10/08/2011 16:57:13 |
Thanks for the info, don't know why I didn't spot it earlier, old age I suppose |
30/07/2011 20:09:38 |
Anyone know which issues the design for the bogie verison was in? |
Thread: DRO Guide |
28/07/2011 20:01:08 |
can only agree, Machine DRO are very helpful. If you're really stuck go to one of the big exhibitions and they will show you how, at least they did with me. I think it helps sales if they are seen to be demonstrating, so it's in their interests as well |
Thread: crankshaft bearing material |
17/06/2011 11:07:24 |
I scrounge mine from a friend, what you are after is Hoyt's white metal, I'm not sure this is the same as is used for making lost wax castings. It comes in quite small ingots. You might find someone who reconditions old engines who would be prepared to sell you a lump |
Thread: Backlash - Steppers, Toothed Belts & Ballscrews |
24/02/2011 17:14:28 |
I'm looking into putting a power feed on the X axis of my Centec 2B. Not CNC yet, but might as well go down the right road. I want to drive the leadscrew via a toothed belt from a stepper motor. The drive will incorporate a clutch so I can disengage for hand feeding. I built a motor drive set for my last miller, a Naerok, using a 12v DC motor which was successful eventually, but I had to fit feedback to keep the motor speed constant. Stepper will be easier and upgradeable. My old machine needed 55N.cm on the leadscrew to give a decent cutting performance, but had a 0.2" pitch leadscrew. I would think the Centec needs less as less pitch screw. (0.1").
Question is, what size motor do I need and what reduction ratio?. I need a rapid traverse speed of about 200 rpm. I can sort out the electronics I think.
|
Thread: Comments on the Exhibition |
22/12/2010 23:30:40 |
When the ME exhibition moved to south of London it gave up any claim to be a 'national' exhibition, but never mind, Harrogate and Leamington Spa are pretty good, and we from the frozen north can get there |
Thread: centec 2b |
16/12/2010 11:20:39 |
Thanks Laurence, it took me a while to find a tube spanner, but it works just as you say. The spindle is now greased up and stored in the bottom of the cabinet in case someone ever wants to put it back.
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