Member postings for frank brown

As these collets are closed by the inside face of the nut pushing the collet into the holder. The inside face of the nut would have a big effect, suppose it only touched the collet face on one side? Could be interesting putting a smear of grease on the collets face or even engineers blue.

In fact it's an interesting engineering challenge to machine, the inner surfaces of the closing nut concentric to the thread. Especially as they should be ground.

Frank

The strength of the tea is determined by the oxygen content of the water. When you boil water you drive some off, so boiling it twice results in less (its not the temperature of freshly boiled water, it should be boiled fresh water). when you make tea, pour the water from a great height, this entraps more air, you will find the tea is stronger.

Frank

Car engine oils have a high detergent component that keeps the rubbish in suspension so it is caught in the oil filter and disposed off. I used Castrol GTX in my headstock and after 20 years it was black. I now use ATF, its good for 100k miles in a gear box thats transmit 100 HP through gears not much bigger then headstock gears and must be compatible with rubber seals clutch materials etc. Also stick a magnet in side the head stock, it should pick up bits of ferrous dust, mine was covered with a fine dust at the oil change.

Frank

Solar film, it goes on the outside.

Frank

I used one of these for my lathe (other sizes/suppliers are available  

Frank

I would buy a suitable HT bolt and take an angle grinder to it.

Frank

Many Thanks Phil, you jogged my memory, I think it was you who sent me the drawing about three years ago (Crawford Lorch collet). Interestingly the thread form is shown with flat peaks and troughs which on all of mine, as said are nicely(?) rounded. It does simplify cutting the threads, just have to do a bit of maths to calculate the actual dimensions, as opposed to the measured ones.

Frank

For many switches the neon is connected outgoing live to earth. Normally they have a 220K resistor in series with them so the normal current is 1 mA. Could be worth checking out the neon's wiring and temporarily disconnecting them.

FWIW we had random trips from condensation inside one arm of a metal chandelier - don't ask, the other two arms were dry.

Frank

Same here, once you have invested in a grinder you can use any broken drill as a lathe tool (and you can sharpen blunt ones). Carbide tips need to be selected for a single purpose, so by the time you have bought a selection of 6 different inserts you will be a good way towards buying a grinder.

Frank

I am ploughing on making a metric collet. It. The thread on it is 14.45 mm max diam with a 1.2 mm pitch.When I view the thread through a microscope it has a 55 degrees with rounded troughs and peaks like a Whitworth.

So eventually I will make a tool that cuts the correct trough shape and angle, the question is how do I get the peaks rounded and at the correct diameter. If I just use an OD of 14.45mm when the thread is the correct minor diameter, the peaks will have "flats"on them so they will need rounding off.

Any ideas on a (cheap) way to go?

Frank

Did you know that "cable puller" is a trade? I once saw them in action at work manipulating 400 A 3 ph. cable. Real tough guys!

Frank

Build a dog kennel for it and put it outside (lean to?) line the box with some foam and leave a 1" gap under the sides for cooling, take air and power straight through the wall.

Frank

It is not clear from your sketch, but the usual arrangement would be, that the shaded part "labelled cast iron body" was carried over to slide on the other part (with the red arrows on it), so the gib would be surrounded with metal and unable to rotate on the set screws.

Frank

Good drilling practice, coolant, rigid fixing, tight chuck bearings, well ground drills and finally "pecking". That is taking a very, very small cuts, say 1/2 a turn band pulling the drill out, yes its laborious but it makes sure that the swarf is removed and does not jam in the side of a fluke so deflecting the drill. The problem is once the drill deviates from the true vertical, the forces then increase the deflection. An American website has a lot of chat about this and it seems that a diam/depth ratio of 1:48 still lead to holes being within thous of their correct position.

Frank

Its because a reduction of spindle speed is done electronically and not by a step down gear box that automatically increases the spindle torque.

Frank

I have read that because of the stress on head studs they are forged.. Single pointing or dieing a thread will lead to stress concentration and early failure. On many vehicle it is mandatory to chuck out the old studs and only refit new ones, because the old studs will have been stretched.

Frank

If the wooden disc is held on by screws going through the pulley flange, just loosen the screw(s) on the "low" side and insert a shim (piece of post card or a bit of a coke can?), then retighten screw.

Frank

Thanks Ray, you have explained a mystery to me. When I moved house, I did about 20 trips to a storage site about 20 miles away mainly by dual carriageway. I kept the same moderate speed 50 MPH+-1 for all the journeys. So my estate went out every morning laden with materials from my workshop and did 50.6 MPG. On the way back (unladen) it did 50.2 MPG. These trips were in April so the weather was cool and misty going out and fairly sunny coming back. It looks like even a moderate amount of dampness does make a measurable difference in MPG,

Frank

If the problem is sorting out where " this black wire goes" and the answer is over 20 different possibilities. Then I would isolate the kit and connect a low voltage power supply to your wire and to the chassis. Then with a suitable low wattage bulb or a suitable meter with one side connected to the chassis, just go from connection to connection until continuity is found. You should be able to check out 20+ terminal per minute. Do check all the terminals as the wire might be looped to a couple of different places. A bell transformer and a 6V bulb would be ideal as any leakage through a contactor coil would be obvious ( very, very dim bulb).

There are pulse type cable tracing stuff around but they are not suitable for this sort of kit, only in the wall or ground or on individual PCB tracks, not bunched wires.

Frank

Easier said then done, but make your tube out of silver steel as tight as possible to the screws outer diameter, even a bit smaller (.005" would not hurt. File the teeth on for reverse rotation and use a battery drill. It should still remove the plug but if you catch the screw it might unscrew it.

Frank