Member postings for IanH

I also use the Greenwood tools parting off system. Like you I have never had a problem with it letting go despite doing some fairly extreme parting off.

What a pity Greenwood Tools have finished.

Ian

Here is my 254 with PeWe Tools size AS.

personally I wouldn’t bother with a rear tool holder for parting off, can you not just modify the tool to suite the tool post?

Ian

Thanks for that, that explanation makes sense. I will examine the trip more closely and see if I can identify the PTCR device.

Thanks again,

Ian

I also have a small portable fan heater that I use in the garage sometimes and we also take it away in the caravan. This has two settings, 1kw and 2kw suggesting two separate heating elements. If you leave it on, eventually when the room warms up it will switch itself off (elements and fan), then it switches itself back on when things have cooled down.

If I took this one to bits I expect I would find a bimetallic temp device that resets with power on acting as a thermostat. In addition I would hope to find a thermal fuse, a one time device designed to protect against overheating following fan failure for example.

This was what I was expecting in the dodgy heater, but instead found just the mystery device. The instructions say that if it shuts down you should turn it off, wait 5 mins and then turn it on again. If it trips out a second time call an electrician.

I think the device does have a heater on board to keep it tripped under power, I just can't see where the neutral is! I will see if I can get a photo....

I have been investigating the failure of a fan heater....don’t shout, it is just a lockdown diversion. It has what looks like a bimetallic type thermal trip fitted such that if the fan fails for example, the heater overheats operating the trip. The trip is on the incoming live and goes open circuit, so once tripped nothing works. The fan motor and heater elements are downstream of the trip.

I assumed that once it cools down it will reset, but it won’t do this whilst the unit is still switched on.

I think the trip is generating a bit of heat which keeps it open circuit? If you turn the unit off (isolate it from the mains), it resets after a short period.

How does the trip manage to not reset whilst still connected to the mains? I imagined that to generate heat it will need to pass a small current, but once tripped it is isolated from the neutral.

Have I forgotten/missed something simple?

Ian

Thanks for the reply Gary, the design of carbs varies quite considerably I think between models, so I am hoping to turn up specific type 27 info.

The type 27 was a racing carb and had no needle or needle jet, just a throttle slide, so is quite a bit different from the 276.

Thanks again,

Ian

Has anyone any info on what is on the inside of the jet block on an Amal type 27 carb?

I would like to know what is going on inside the jet block but am a bit reluctant to have a go at taking the carb I have apart - it looks like it is soft soldered together. I can see the pilot circuit, but what I suspect is an emulsion tube is largely hidden inside.

Ian

The pump part of the oiler looks like a Best and Lloyd pump. You find them on early motorcycles, or the application I am more familiar with, Morgan three wheelers. On the Morgan the pump would be dash mounted with one, or sometimes two sight glasses attached. You push the plunger in to charge the pump, it then returns slowly under spring pressure, the rate determined by the needle valve on the top of the sight glass. When you park up, the latch on the top of the pump locks it in position stopping it delivering until you are ready to go.

The Best and Lloyd pumps were marked with what is known as a “happy man” symbol on top of the plunger. In fact the little man is surprised rather than happy. This is a reference to the surprise gas chandelier which was made by the Best and Lloyd company.

Unless the pump has a specific and precious purpose, I would be inclined to remove the pump, fit a sight glass and get it onto a 2 speeder Morgan dash board.

Ian

I noted that one or two people are talking about building a hydraulic press. I have the remains of a Sealey 30T hydraulic press on my drive. Free to a good home if you would like to collect it from Cheshire, 5 mins off Jn 18 on the M6.

Ian

We are clearly struggling with the email address, apologies for this.

Can I ask that you use the phone number 07989 505232 please, this will definitely get through to Jeremy.

Thanks

Ian

A further update to the list just made and a new email for Jeremy - jerrysjeeps22@gmail.com - fingers crossed this new address works for everyone.

Ian

As promised, I have just updated the list of items for sale based on activities over the last day or two. Still plenty of nice stuff available.

Ian

I put the recent series of items on the web site on behalf of my cousin Jeremy Haynes who is clearing the last items from his father’s workshop. I have spoken to him this morning and find that hotmail is in some difficulty, and he is not getting any emails. This accounts for the lack of response.

Two or three people have come through to me via the messaging feature on this forum and I have put them in touch with Jeremy directly via his mobile. Jeremy is happy for anyone interested in the items to call his mobile, it is 07989 505232.

When items are sold, Jeremy will let me know and I will remove them from the listing to avoid disappointment.

apologies for the confusion.

Ian

Ah ha! Swapped out my D bit for a commercial milling cutter and clocked that - spot on near as makes no difference.

The problem is my D bit. Sighting down the length of it (approx 2" with a straight edge, it is clearly not straight. Could be heat treatment distortion or maybe it was just not straight to start with? It came from my store of silver steel bits and pieces so no idea what it's history was.

Time to start again I think. Any hints on keeping it straight during heat treatment?

Ian

I need to make a piece of tooling involving some odd sized small holes. I could bore one of them, but the other two are a bit small, so I decided to head off down the home made D bit route.

I carefully made 2 of the three D bits required on opposite ends of a piece of silver steel, then hardened and tempered them. I set the silver steel up in the 4 jaw and clocked it up before turning the required diameters so all nice and concentric.

Transferring the finished tool to the Bridgeport, I mounted it in an R8 collet and drilled a test hole. It drilled fine, but I was disappointed to find the resulting hole oversize!

I had a think and decided to measure the run out of the tool in the collet - TIR 5 thou. I took the collet out and measured the spindle run out - bob on as it should be. I cleaned everything up and put the collet and tool back in the spindle and same result TIR 5 thou. My conclusion is that it is the run out that is causing the oversize holes.

These are typical R8 collets and not the rather more expensive high precision collets that can be bought.

I have got into the habit of running milling cutters in these R8 collets rather than the Osborne collet chuck, partly for reasons of rigidity and partly because not all my cutters are of the screwed shank type.

So.....should I invest in the high precision R8 collets, or should I go for one of the ER types that seem popular with folk on this forum. If ER, which one and what source to get decent precision?

Ian

Nice post!

How about some info and photos on the use of those nice gear verniers?

Also I would like to hear more about corrected gear forms, I suspect this is the same as profile shifted forms mentioned in the original post. As an example, I am thinking of the case where the original fine tooth gears in the JAP cam train were replaced with coarse tooth gears running on the old gear centres to avoid the fine tooth gears stripping under the action of starting the engine through the cam train.

I second the use of Greenwood’s Q cut parting system and use this on both my machines. I have been using this tool for years and only resort to HSS if I can’t reach in far enough with the Q cut, and then I only use the HSS tool for the last bit. I work mainly in EN 8, 16 and 24 and don’t slow down to part off. Plenty of lubricant, suds or Rocol, and be bold feeding the tool.

Ian

Just to close the loop on this, whilst I was getting closer to an answer, 30 degree PA tooling was looking tricky to source economically for a one off job.

Thinking about it again with friends, we concluded that the Morgan has a thin walled tubular prop shaft with inserts soft soldered in each end, and this is well able to handle up to 80 plus bhp in the case of the racing Morgans. The Emeryson has maybe half this power available shared between two drive shafts (no diff), so extending the existing shafts with a length of decent high tensile tube should be fine. I have procured a length of 10g T45 tube and will now set about the job of putting it together. I think I will go silver soldering rather than soft soldering, but with a decent joint area I am pretty sure on reflection that soft solder would do the job. A bonus of taking this approach is that if a joint does fail, it should fail safely in that the shafts will not flail around.

here is the car in period...

You may have spotted my ad looking for a small cylindrical grinder, specifically a Jones and Shipman 520.

i got the following email from a “Mike Wilson” mw455808@gmail.com

“Are you interested in Jones and Shipman 520 grinder., that you requested for ? If so let me know asap”

I try not to be sceptical but in this case I smell a rat! I briefly replied yes and shortly after got a response including a picture of the grinder for sale. I recognised the specific picture from the Lathes.co.uk web site.

A web search on the email address shows that this person has tried similar tactics on the Norton Forum, so I am afraid it is an attempt at a scam.

If posting a wanted ad, be careful.

Meanwhile the search for a small grinder continues.....

Ian

Thanks for everyone’s input, I am thinking that all things considered, this might be one job that I outsource. The commercial outfits are talking about hardening and straightening after cutting the spline form which is an added layer of complication I could do without.

thanks again

Ian