Here is a list of all the postings JohnF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Ultrasonic cleaner |
21/12/2011 21:32:12 |
Charlie, you pays your money and ! ! ! these small units will only clean jewellery etc, if you want to do engineering items you need to go for a much larger unit and it will cost you £250 to £500 or more but you will get good results providing you use the correct additive in the fluid. I have been using one to clean parts with ingrained muck for many years now and its the best labour saving item to date. You need one with at least 1 gallon + or 5-6 litres capacity and preferably a heater--have a look at this link. This is not my unit I bought it elsewhere before these guys came on the ME scene but a pal bought one of these to clean carburettors and he is well pleased. http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/6-5-litre-ultrasonic-cleaner-with-200w-heater-dial-control.html |
Thread: Tipped Tools |
29/11/2011 23:04:56 |
Hi Wolfie,
I've been cutting metal for over 50 years now and I agree with Clive, Used lathes from Dean Smith & grace down to my Myford and was around when disposable tipped tools were in their infancy.
They are OK but really designed for industrial use and frankly I find I get better results with high quality HSS tool blanks ground free hand. I use Eclipse or other top brand tool blanks and grind my own on an offhand grinder.
Tonight I turnd a component with 4 different diameters all to a limit of 0.0005" with HSS. I have tried this in the past with tipped tools and on small machines they stuggle to hold close limits--good for roughing out though! The brazed tip tools can be sharpened to a keener edge if you have the gear, of the disposable ones I have tried on the Myford I fined the Sumitomo give the best results but they are expensive.
I do like the full form screw cutting tips though and they work well.
John |
Thread: Moving a lathe |
27/11/2011 13:38:48 |
Hi Matthew, Depends if you have access to a farm tractor but we shifted a couple of Smart and Brown 1025 lathes [just over 1 ton each] useing a tractor fitted with fork lift arms. If you live rural you may have a pal in farming? Also moved a Bridgeport mill with same.
Once on the drive/garage 3/4 pieces of scafolding pipe make good rollers.
good luck--John. |
Thread: NEW Original MYFORD Dickson type tool posts & holders |
31/10/2011 20:40:05 |
Hi All, yes I bought some as well via Ebay and they are first quality, if you want them I would jump in quick before they run out. These are far better than the imported stuff. |
Thread: ER32 Myford Collet Chuck |
30/10/2011 11:47:03 |
Hi All,
Just an observation but it seems to me that all the problems are with another brand of chuck---not RDG.
When I was speaking to the owner at the show he told me that all their tooling was made to DIN standard and mostly in India this being the case one would expect any of their chucks to perform and fit correctly.
Regarding Douglas's question no they were not a "set" just bought at the same time because of a show deal.
John |
25/10/2011 11:39:46 |
At the MidlandsExhibition I purchased a Myford fit ER32 collet chuck and a set of collets from RDG
However I was a little sceptical of the accuracy quoted [due to previous experience with imported tools] for the chuck but I must say I am delighted—it runs with 0.0001” TIR or less than! Just a flicker on my dial gauge and the collets are well within the DIN tolerance. It runs “Bob On” and you have the added advantage of the 20mm capacity for short components. Had it on and off the lathe a few times to amke sure it was not a fluke but it is always the same--delighted!
I have no connection with RDG other than a satisfied customer--hope you find this info useful
|
Thread: hardening and tempering |
24/10/2011 15:18:31 |
Hi all, going back to the original question/comment regarding tempering with lead, yes it can be used for tempering but not a reamer.
It is often used to temper springs, it melts at about 327 deg C and springs are best tempered at around 330 to 340 deg C but your reamer or cutting tools would be tempered at a pale straw 230 deg C.
If you do use lead you need a high temp thermometer and you also need to make sure the lead does not stick--like solder--to your tool, if you have just hardened in oil leave it black, if you have cleaned it up then coat it with powdered chalk mixed with water or meths. VIP IF YOU USE WATER MAKE 100% SURE IT IS DRY BEFORE YOU PUT IT IN THE LEAD *******OTHERWISE SERIOUSE INJURY WILL OCCUR--HEALTH AND SAFETY !!!! ALWAYS USE A FACE MASK GLOVES ETC.
Hardening you need to have the steel above the uper critical point--i.e. in an austenitic condition as Nick says. This varies depending on the steel but as a rough guide silver steel and high carbon steel a dull red [in subdued light] is about 730/750 C quench in oil. For say EN9 you need a bright cherry red about 850 C to harden but it is always best to check in the makers spec sheet for heat treatment.
This is only a "potted" response heat treatment is very involved and to obtain specific results needs very careful treatment for each steel specification.
Best of luck
John. |
Thread: Slitting saw runout |
23/10/2011 21:08:24 |
Hi everyone is correct, I've been cutting metal for over 50 years and its always been the same but some are better than others.
John |
Thread: Flat bottom holes |
23/10/2011 21:04:29 |
Hi Tony,
Its worth buying a 3 flute slot drill they are stiffer and more stable when cutting so less likely to chatter.
An FC3 cutter would probably fill the bill--try J & L Tools they someitmes have them on offer http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/cgi/insrhm
John |
Thread: McCulloch Strimmer problem |
19/10/2011 15:57:23 |
Presume he has tried a new or different plug? Is it electronic ignition or a magneto? If its a magneto try a new condenser, at one time they either worked OK or were dead but now they don't die completely and can give the effect you are seeing. Good luck John |
Thread: Preventing Rusting in Garage |
19/10/2011 15:55:18 |
test |
Thread: Help with a 'beehive' spring. |
15/10/2011 22:37:22 |
Hi Spurry,
Try Spring Masters in Redittch--just google them, they do a large range of springs and some 35 years ago when in industry we used to get small batches of specials at modest prices but 6 off may be a little to small ?
There is also a book in My Hobbystore relating to spring making
John |
Thread: Knurling Help Needed |
15/10/2011 22:32:34 |
Hi Hugh,
Agreed soft materials do knurl easier but you should have no difficulty with silver steel. Knurling is not an exact science and the fact that you are using S2 tool hoolders suggests that you have a fairly substantial machine so a straight feed tool should not cause you a problem.
I use a Marlco pinch type tool [on my Myford] and I think these are one of the best available but when in industry most knurling was done with a tool similar to yours. I always found it best to feed in from the front of the work--as if you were making a cut with a tool--with the tool set to about half the depth of the knurl then increase depth whilst moving the carriage/top slide back and forth untill full depth reached. This should give you a good start and if the wheels do get out of step then start from off the work again with a little more depth.
Good luck John |
Thread: unc / unf to metric |
15/10/2011 22:14:24 |
For good reasonabley priced minature UNF try Brownells.com in the USA they are a gunsmiths supply house--I use them quite a bit.
In fact I will be placing an order soon so could tag on anything you want if you contact me direct.
John |
Thread: Which Myford do I buy?? |
09/10/2011 12:04:57 |
Hello Mark, my heartiest congratulations on your philosophy -- "so help
Regarding a lathe, most advice has already been said but here's my 5 bits
Myford is in my opinion probably the best small machine bar none for small
As Jeff says there are a lot of small industrial machines to be had and
|
Thread: Commercial projects??? |
25/08/2011 00:33:56 |
Hi David [moderator] I sincerely hope you do not delete Graham Meeks thread on screwcutting. I was very interested to learn where and when his article will be published and I will buy the magazine for that period--I've tried EIM and it does not suit my tast generally, to much steam, so I will not change from MEW.
Why all the knit picking about commercial projects? If he makes a few bob by having his idea published well good luck to him--commercial projects make the world go round. If he was going into production and using the forum to advertise then I would understand but he does not appear to be doing this at all and his thread is just passing knowledge on to other like minded people.
An old guy I worked with as an improver some 40years ago often said "knowledgw withheld is knowledge lost" and it is very true! |
Thread: Myford - Dickson tool holders |
09/08/2011 21:44:17 |
Hi Miles, I too have bought from Chronos and concur with the above comments regarding fit. I had to machine about 0.030" of the back of the T to make it clear the main block before the V 's located wrote to Chronos about it as well--I think they are made by Soba? Also no where near as hard as the genuine Dickson ones--I machined them with a carbide cutter with ease.
Also bought some TOS ones for a Smart and Brown 1024 lathe and these were spot on and properly hardened.
Chronos good value and I'm sure the other brand will be as well but you can't beat the genuine article.
Regards John |
Thread: Making Lathe Feedscrews |
08/08/2011 00:23:56 |
Hi Chris,
I agree with John, hardening will cause you a lot of problems--better to leave as machined and EN8 is a good choice with Phospher Bronze for the nut. This combination was used extensively on industrial machines before CNC and ball screws and gave many years of service even when unhardened.
One point is that cross and compound slide screws on a lathe are usually left hand thus making the tool move away from you as you turn the handle clockwise.
Regards John |
Thread: Best way to improve fit of main spindle quill in casting (long) |
07/07/2011 23:30:59 |
Dear Ian,
I reckon your machine must have had a rough life! I have an FB2 miller bought new some 25 years ago, it has been in constant profesional use ever since and has done 1000,s of hours of work.
I am now retired and It is still in daily use and as accurate as the day I bought it, its incredibly ridged for the size of machine. I worked for many years in industry on production jig boreing so am used to fine tolerances--the Emco will not give this performance but you can work to a two thou limit with ease, better if you are careful.
Regarding your problem I would suggest that if the spindle was bent some considerable force has been applied which may also have distorted the head casting? Boreing and inserting a liner may be the best solution and it might be worth asking your local engine re-conditioning shop if they will oblige with the boreing/lining, they will have the facility to bore and hone to suit your orininal quill to a high standard. Just a thought because clocking a horizontal bore for line boreing is always a problem due to "gravity droop" of the clock mechanism [worked for some time on a horizontal borer] Its not impossible but do take care if you go ahead to ensure you retain the original position in the casting.
Think I have waffled on enough so best of luck.
Regards John. |
Thread: Explorer 9 |
18/06/2011 22:00:55 |
Hi Steambuff, Thanks I found it this time
thanks to everone else who replied
Regards to all
John |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.