Member postings for JohnF

This site may be helpful Thread Data

I have I hope sent the link to metric pipe threads but there is a great deal of information on this site relating to threads

edit, I don't see exactly what you are looking for but you can search further !  Worth remembering that "standards" were variable 100+ years ago many used their own standards and often used odd ball sizes so you had to buy parts from them !

John

Edited By JohnF on 22/10/2022 10:23:57

Well my two pennyworth -- I purchased one of these **LINK** some years back as a "jobbing" caliper and its worked very well even though the glass cover on the display got broken --- no idea how ! still works OK. My workshop is in a U shape lathe and mill back to back and invariably the calliper was in the wrong place so a couple of weeks ago bought another. For the price i think they are excellent and better than the "standard" imported ones many suppliers sell.

Auto on and auto shut down, slightly gritty feel but works very well and over time they do get smoother plus no plastic so for the money ? Still prefer my Mitutoyo caliper or Etalon vernier

DC31k, Hi thanks for your thoughts, the machine was supplied with single phase electrics and I am 99% confident the wiring is also as supplied. This was confirmed by Boxford shortly after purchase, I contacted them for some spares shortly after acquiring the machine, some were available others not.

It has run without problem for around 15 years since I bought it so fairly sure it’s just the switch gear that’s the problem. I have run the motor alone and it runs perfectly in either direction but the forward switch will not lock in so it certainly appears to be the coil that’s duff.

Thanks for your thoughts John

Thank you all, lots to chew over ! The machine is single phase although I have been reliably informed the switch gear will suit 3-phase as well.

Machine has run fine for around 15 years but been playing up for about 12 months, forward and reverse is normal on T & C grinders and used in equal amounts depending on the job in hand. This machine doubles as a small surface grinders where forward [clockwise] running is the order of the day.

Nigel B thanks I will look into Farnell and see what they can suggest, as you say it may well be a case of replace the whole set, I do have a good local electrician who will assist -- its way above my pay grade !

DC31K I do have the original manual from Boxford but there is no wiring diagram, I contacted Boxford and unfortunately they no longer have a copy available.

Thanks all for the comments

John

Edit P S The thermal overload reset is the small blue button bottom right in photo 1

Edited By JohnF on 10/10/2022 12:17:42

Hi I need some advice ! Electricity apart from simple wiring etc is not my forte - I know my limits ! Had look at the switch gear on my Boxford grinder, its been playing up for a while, ran in reverse but not forwards and eventually reverse stopped working.

I discovered there is a cut out on the reverse switch, presumably thermal? pressed it in and reverse works again. The forward unit will not "lock in" it runs if I push in the switch bar but doesn't hold. Now I need to know what to search for on the internet to find a replacement unit so please advise what these units are called, its the LHS one in the photo.  Thanks John

Edited By JohnF on 10/10/2022 09:02:55

Edited By JohnF on 10/10/2022 09:07:45

Sparky Mike please look at your messages

Hi all, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the above Boxford G200 tool & cutter grinder ?

Any information gratefully received !

Regards John

Hi John, have a look at this link Forum FB2 there are lost of things of interest and in particular the oldest post relates to feed screws for the FB2 FB2 Leedscrews on here they suggest EN24T

I cannot find it but some time back there was someone who made a batch of lead screws for the FB2 in metric only --maybe someone else will recall where ??

As has been suggested there are several suppliers of lead screws eg Leadscrews

Regards John

The thing that irritates me more are the multiple emails they send if you make a purchase --we have your order ;; you order is being posted ;; you order is on its way etc etc WHY ? One is sufficient with the tracking number if applicable !

John

Dell, it may be too late but I would advise purchasing the HSS taps rather than the carbon steel, the HSS are made to a better standard IMO. I have had both from Tracytools

Alex, I think it may've been helpful to explain a little more about your machine -- I had no idea what it was until a little research ! However I would suggest you contact Sergi in Italy with the machine serial number etc and I feel sure you will find them helpful. Seems they are just on the outskirts of Brescia

https://www.thefabricator.com/directory/showroom/sergi-srl

John

Not their best customer by far but I have occasionally ordered from them and find them to be very helpful and efficient -- no connection other than a customer

John

Chris have a look at your messages John

Hi Jame, depends on the model you have and I would assume its a flat belt drive ? Have a look on www.lathes.co.uk under Portass there are some examples.

I would suggest you incorporate a countershaft to give you a better range of speeds, the motor can sit wherever it’s most convenient but I would suggest motor behind the lathe on the same bench and sett the countershaft above this. Use a double pulley on the motor and an opposing one on the countershaft then the final opposing pulley to the one on the lathe on the centre of the countershaft.

Hope this helps John

Johnathan please look at your messages -- little black box at the top of the menu bar

Had not realised how old this thread is since it originated ! However this site may be of interest to anyone restoring a bench vice, no connection other than a customer, I purchased a set of jaws from them, excellent quality.

https://www.viceworks.co.uk/pages/page-1

John

Chris, is this your first attempt at parting off or have you been doing it before? If you did do it successfully before what tooling did you use?

I don't have problems parting off and never have, I use a bog standard HSS parting tool mounted in a Dickson holder on both my Super 7 and all other lathes I have. Not saying its wrong but I have never used power feed for parting off, I like to have the "feel" of the tool during this operation.

Worth noting Chris is using an ML7 and no power cross feed is available ! I do have a tool of the type you are using , tried it and it was OK but did not cut as well as the HSS, considerably more pressure required to make a cut.

Pretty much everything else has been said, make sure the machine is adjusted correctly, main bearings in particular, tool to be "tad" above centre, plenty of lube and a steady feed -- with hand feed do not dwell at the end of the cut -- feed in and back off, feed in and back off. If you leave the tool touching the work it will induce chatter and don't be too gentle with the feed - its all about "feel" !

To get the centre height correct a tool height gauge is well worth making but in the absence of one just face a piece of stock leaving a tiny pip at the centre to set your parting tool to.

I seem to recall that many years ago Myford Nottingham sold a modified set of soft jaws that used a similar idea to Buffer's system above but they used Hex bar for the inserts and the recess in the jaw was machined to accommodate the Hexagon. Depending on what was being machined etc this gave up to 6 stations on each set.

Always thought it was a great idea !

John

Just read the opening post again and realised I did the same thread last week but RH for a Kitty planer 12 x 2.5 Trapezoidal -- this was a clean up job to free the thread.

Ground the tool freehand using a vernier protractor for the angles, got that correct then reduced the end to make it the right width, the tool holder has been around for years.

If you are close enough to me I can ascertain the angle for you, see profile. If not you can photograph the thread, close up and try to take the pic at the thread angle so you get a clear image, expand the image, print if you want and measure the angle.

It will not be absolutely precise but good enough to show whether its 29 or 30 deg -- you will really need the cross slide feed screw as a gauge or maybe the compound is the same thread ?

John