Member postings for JohnF

Plus 1 for the Femi, I think for the footprint the capacity is amazing at 4" dia or square ! Also cuts very well and nice and square, never regretted my purchase.

Never done anodising but I do a fair bit of hot caustic blacking of steel components and where any corrosive chemicals are being used I would advise the use of a full face visor rather than goggles plus I always have a large bucket of clean fresh water close by with a suitable cloth in case of splashes or other accidents—touch wood not needed up to now but !!!

John

Why not just use Silver steel / Drill rod then harden and temper !

Guy, the real answer is the correct material for the job in hand, however if you want something thats easy to use and can be used for many items/components is free cutting mild steel EN1a

If you have any questions regarding the suitability of a material for a particular component post your question on here and you will for sure get an answer. Take care if the part is to be used in a high stress situation you need special steels in this situation !

John

I think some of the info on Neils link are very good and this youtube one in particular is a good representation of the two projections **LINK**

Another way to train your self to read a drawing is to make a drawing --- once you understand the projections, it can be a vey simple drawing but it will help you to then understand more complicated drawings.

May be worth adding your location to a post or your profile then there may be someone close willing to "walk" you through the process.

John

Edited By JohnF on 01/09/2018 17:44:14

Welcome Tom, where in Lancashire are you ? I'm near Lancaster.

Cheers John

Leszek, for supplies look ar M-Machine metals, they have 18 SWG spring strip 1/2” wide, to cut the narrow strip you need I would hold the strip in a vice then use a cold chisel to cut the 3/32 strip of the main piece, it will distort somewhat but it’s quite easy to rework to a flat strip again. I use this method a lot to cut trigger return springs.

John

Intended to do it for some time but today prompted to make a "pocket box" for my hearing aid batteries, prompted by mislaying a small plastic makeup sample container from SWMBO --- found it later on the back of the bench !!!!

Anyway a couple of pics, made from stainless tube with the bottom pressed in and screw top 40 tpi much more compact than the plastic box -- just need to insulate the inside now.

Welcome Ian, what motorcycle[s] do you have? i have several but all Ariels from 1932 to 1955. Plenty of info on here you only need to ask and it seems you have a good grasp of lathe work - screw cutting is one of the more complicated processes -- as Andrew says its an ambitious start, well done!

Always a good idea to fill in the basics on your profile IMO for future reference.

John

Roger please see your personal messages PM

Mike, I would suggest its too good a tool to use as a welding table ! Most common use if these is on surface grinders among other uses.

As far as welding currents depleting the magnetism I don't know the answer but I'm sure some with that knowledge will be along soon.

John

A couple of links added

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/documents/eclipsemagneticchuckhandbook.pdf

https://www.eclipsemagnetics.com/row/product-range/workholding/ax47-p-rectangular-premier-chuck.html

Edited By JohnF on 11/08/2018 11:33:57

Supported, great toy is Lego my offspring had loads of fun, now have a great nephew in NZ who’s only 7 and for his age he builds the most amazing Star Wars units — gotta have the engineering gene !

John

Hi Alan, I would make new and suggest EN24T condition T is in the heat treated condition but still machinable, very tough material and should be ideal for the situation. Depends on what machine you have to decide on the best tooling HSS or carbide, coolant or not.

I see you have pressed them out of the flywheels, what did you use? Whatever it was it should be capable of pressing new ones back in and you can get a good measurement for this from the originals by the look of your photo.

Maybe to Velo club or a member will have drawings or maybe someone will come to your aid with a good crank you can measure up, even so I think you should be able to obtain suitable measurements from your old ones, most sizes will probably be a nominal imperial size or you will know what they are to fit into.

Finally got around to making a Tangential tool holder -- been on the "to do" list for some time so drew a plan last night then modified it as work progressed ! Borrowed some ideas seen on here for the design.

Works well on trial cuts with an off hand ground tool to the 30deg angle -- tool grinding jig tomorrow maybe plus I'll case harden it next time i have the furnace on.

Most people seem to say the angle for sharpening should be 30deg across the diagonal which is the angle I used for a test but I did some calculations and I reckon 25deg will give a 10deg rake top and side -- more than enough -- any comments ?

John

Edited By JohnF on 05/08/2018 23:12:06

Alan W please PM me with your email and I'll send you the original info on PDF files -- would put it on here but cannot up load PDF's plus maybe infringe copyright ?

John

As BobH says a wooden "lap" with emery but you can also add some foam rubber under the emery work well fo me for polishing the inside of tubes -- metal removal is of course minimal.

John

One thing you need to be carful of is not to end up with a barrel bore -- may be better to clean it up well and consider reducing the pillar diameter but I would try the wedge --carefully -- first after a good clean up of both parts.

Edited By JohnF on 04/08/2018 15:22:30

Try Verdict they offer a repair service for their own and other quality makes **LINK**

Hi Nick, I too did a conversion on a line shaft machine something close to 50 years back and used a cam arrangement for belt tension, I sold the machine only about a year ago but if you message me your email I can sent some photos - maybe they will be of use ?

However what I would suggest is have the existing plate as close as possible to the machine casting when fitted. To make a belt tension I would add another plate with a pivot - so its like a very large hinge then add a cam arrangement at the opening side of the hinge so you can change speeds easily. You may need a new belt to do this.

If a sketch would help let me know.

John

Let’s be fair chaps there is only ONE true English and that’s the one where it originated 🤗

Slightly off topic and just to throw a spanner in the works —— what’s a billon ? When I was at school it was (is) a million million (bi million) 1,000,000,000,000, now it seems to have been degraded ( by Mr Wilson ?) to a thousand million 1000,000,000 thus 1/1000th of the original ?

Incidentally I reckon someone took the wrong bucket over for the gallon as well 🤔

John

I use both HSS and full form tips, both work very well and the carbide is fine at around 100rpm, one thread I cut a great many of is 1/2 UNF never counted but nowhere near 20 passes - never broken a tip YET !! I also cut quite a few metric specials all 1mm pitch all using a full form tip.

Having said that tips would for sure be better at much higher speeds but don't be afraid to use them, you will get good clean cut threads and there is no need whatsoever to cut at half angel a straight plunge cut is fine and you will get a good finish. I usually finish with a couple of 1 thou cuts and maybe a spring cut plus a calliper gauge or thread mic for size.

Pics in my albums workshop stuff John