Member postings for JohnF

Geoff, This address was provided by our local Chamber of Commerce at the request of the national organisation so suggest you contact them directly.

I agree there are many of us who would be well placed to produce small parts for this emergency - even if it was for out of pockets expenses only !

[email protected]/

Regards John

PS I wonder if the team has any ideas information on how one would make such a device - a simple version - form everyday easily available products ????

Edited By JohnF on 18/03/2020 14:03:20

Colin, the short answer is no I don't -- wish I did because I have one with the same problem but electricity / electronics are not my forte. I did ask a pal who is pretty good on this stuff but he drew a blank, my guess and it is a guess its the transducer[s] or probably what drives them ???

Hope fully someone with the necessary knowledge will be along and I will watch the thread with interest

John

Ben, I would suggest Nigels valuation should be a minimum you can expect, as he suggests look on Ebay there are several well over £1750 but of course they are or appear to be later vintage but in reality there is little to no difference other than the paint finish. Look for the serial number usually in the front of the bed and then on Myford web site to find the approximate year of manufacture, I would hazard a guess its 1974-78 ??

You could of course advertise it on here !

John

Robert, An interesting project and I wish you well with your endeavours, however please keep in mind that whilst it is not illegal to load ammunition for any type of firearm -- provided you have the necessary UK certificate -- and its for your own personal use.

It is however an offence to to reload ammunition for another party, even for free, unless you are CIP Proof house approved as an ammunition manufacturer where your ammunition is tested and approved by a CIP proof house, in the UK Birmingham or London but I believe the testing is largely done at Birmingham. All ammunition sold in the UK is marked as approved on the box.

Manufacturing the components i.e. cartridge cases may be a grey area, I have no idea but would suggest you contact Birmingham proof house, you will find them very helpful I'm sure.

I would also suggest your friend ensures that his gun is still "in proof" under he rules it was tested for - many old guns are way out of proof and thus unsafe for service unless re-proved at the proof house.

John

Alison, why not make an album on your account and add some photo's then for sure you will receive plenty of advice. Just click Albums on the green banner at the top then follow the instructions.

Alternatively I am in NW Lancashire if you are close PM me -- as far as your location why not just post the county or town ?

John

Chris, more info needed -- what make/model is your lathe, is it imperial or metric, or whats the lead screw pitch, what change wheels do you have etc.

John

Brian, may be worth letting everyone know the url of this outfit so we can all blacklist it ? Personally I tax my cars at out village post office, yes its easier online but local PO's are vital and as the advert says "every little helps" them stay open and offer vital services.

John

As Andrew says without knowing the steel composition its difficult -- it may be that this die was low carbon steel and case hardened ? In any event the only thing to do is suck it and see !

Treat as suggested by Andrew and you either have a die or you make a new one, assuming it hardens you will need to polish it and temper to pale straw colour in subdued daylight .

John

Mark, Plus another 1 for extending a reamer, however it does depend on how accurate you need the hole with regard to straightness and location at either end. If you go this route I would use tin solder to join the reamer to the extension thus less chance of affecting the reamer hardness.

For a D bit of that length, although I have never used one that long I would consider either make a flat on the top of the bit or maybe better a V groove along the full working length of the D bit to facilitate lubrication.

Another method that you could use is spill boring - used in the past to bore gun barrels, shotgun in particular. It achieves an very straight hole but its an old fashioned method and very slow really superseded by modern tooling but its cheap to produce and does work.

Lastly you could make a draw reamer from silver steel [drill rod] as the name implies you pull this through the hole rather than push it through the pull rod being smaller than the hole.

John

Some years ago I fitted one of these electric combo boilers in a cottage - very small cottage -- for my daughters partner. The boiler was for a closed pressurised system for heating and hot water, it works very well and because the cottage is small, 2 rooms down and one bedroom + bathroom upstairs its quite affordable. The reason for the choice was no gas and no room for an oil tank.

In this situation its fine but I would think hard before fitting a similar system on a normal size family home, it would i guess be expensive to run even though it uses off peak power as far as possible.

Regarding the OP I wonder what will happen to all the bio fuel units that have been fitted in recent time -- many with government incentives !

John

Mark, you don't give any indication the size range of your drills but I agree with David and Mick above its not rocket science and you can learn with a little practice to sharpen drills very effectively on and off hand grinder. If you are close enough to me - nothing on your profile ! - I would be happy to assist - I am in NW Lancashire.

I do have a machine recently re-furbished to sharpen small drills I now find difficult due to ageing eyesight ! However I used such a machine when in industry for small drills, it will handle down to No 60 or 0.5mm and up to 1/4" Look at Christen in my albums to see the machine.

Also if you put "Drill sharpen" in the forum search there is a plethora of posts -- note sharpen not sharpener, sharpening !

John

Hi Bob, Some years back I purchase a seat of ME taps and dies in carbon steel and was disappointed with the fit in particular, several were very sloppy others were OK. In the end I spoke to the company Tracy Tools were excellent in their response particularly so when there was a considerable time from my original purchase and my decision to "do a swop" with cash adjustment for HSS, these are much better regarding fit and they cut better IMO than the CS ones.

Regards John

Welcome back David time to stir the grey matter and resurrect your skills !

Regards John

Assuming the ML10 has an MT2 in the spindle then the ER collets are your only option, however I would consider ER32, that what I use on my Super 7. The ER25 will not hold your 20mm dia components.

John

Hi Philip, standard engineering practice is bore the cylinder, bush, bearing first then make the mating part to fit, far easier to turn or grind to a size and remove small amounts of material from a shaft than a bore.

John

Edited By JasonB on 11/02/2020 12:54:06

ML7's normally have a shim pack in between the main casting and the cap so you can peel a layer of .002" ??? then re-scrape the bearing to fit.

John

Plus one for Nick's point regarding rigidity, but also consider the power cross feed machine will be newer than your machine, however that does of course not necessarily mean it is in better condition and with less wear ???? Much to consider as well as the additional length.

My S7 is a long bed [hardened] with power cross feed purchased new 1977/8? I chose the long bed for particular reasons.

John

Edited By JohnF on 02/02/2020 17:31:42

Hi Duncan, just had to renew mine for the 3rd time and the first time around at 70 it did hack me off a little regarding the 7 1/2 ton restriction ! You can retain it if you wish but have to jump through a few hoops, at first i was going to but then thought when did I last drive a vehicle in that class and when am i likely to do so agin ? Hm!!! so many years back i don't really recall when and probably never again so decided not to bother.

However a word of warning DO keep you old license or make a copy of it BEFOR you send in your application, if your new plastic/electronic license comes back with something missing - say motorcycle -- then you would have a to take a new test unless YOU can prove you have already passed and without your old license its impossible !!

Do the same when renewing you 70+ license in three years time -- do not trust them !

John

Also the part to tow a trailer VIP 

Edited By JohnF on 01/02/2020 16:31:53

Simon, I had a similar problem many years ago with an Epson, so long ago I don't recall the details but i found a solution trawling the internet, I just entered the following " epson printer not recognising genuine cartridges" and many ideas come up so may be worth a try ? But you will need to look for your specific printer I think. Mine ran for many years after the fix so good luck with your efforts.

John

Vic, have a look here **LINK** might do your job ?

John

Or google "Angle Grinder Rasp"

Edited By JohnF on 22/01/2020 23:18:54