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Member postings for Mike

Here is a list of all the postings Mike has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Next > Last >>
Thread: Doris LMS Black 5 by LBSC
25/08/2010 15:59:54
I understand that legislation which became active in 2005 forbids the use of asbestos in brake pads and linings in the UK. This information is from a website for Rolls Royce and Bentley enthusiasts. This does not mean that there are not some of the old ones hanging about in peoples' garages.
However, looking at the black dust given off by the disc pads on my car, I still wouldn't like to inhale it. Suggest machining all brake materials calls for a good dust mask.
Thread: Artillery
30/07/2010 08:51:47
I am searching my memory for this one, but I think it was during the 1980s that ME published an article by a reader who had built his own .22 competition pistol. The usual rifling twist for a .22 is one turn in 14 inches, and I seem to remember the rifling was produced by using 14 tpi gearing set up backwards (with the smallest gear wheel at the leadscrew end). The lathe was then driven from the leadscrew - possibly by turning it by hand.
I think the grooves were cut one at a time with a long boring tool of the writer's own design.
Maybe someone with a better memory than mine could dig out the article - if only to prove me wrong on the details!
Thread: Alignment of lead screw on CL300
18/06/2010 14:43:27
Thanks to Gordon and Michael for the two replies. The mikesworkshop site is well worth a visit - some super ideas, including his cross slide of laminated construction.
17/06/2010 16:49:39
While we're on the subject of the CL300, anyone out there know of a source for a T-slotted cross slide for this machine? Grateful for any help.
Thread: Countersinking - guidance please...?
07/06/2010 16:59:26
Thanks, KWIL - and not a bad price for what appears to be quality stuff. Must restrain myself - I could spend a lot of money on that site!
07/06/2010 15:25:54
Like Geoff, I have used the single diagonal hole type for more than 20 years, and no chattering whatsoever, even on relatively hard stainless. Just use them at very low speed. I think they are correctly termed de-burring cutters. Can't find a source on the internet at the moment. Does anyone know of one?
Mike
Thread: Poor surface finish using Myford
28/05/2010 15:53:16
Thanks, KWIL - you are obviously much more familiar than I with the ML7. I used to have an ML7R and a Super 7B, and both had adjustable bearings at the rear end of the headstock, so I wrongly assumed Steve's lathe would be the same. Apologies for causing confusion.
Mike
Thread: Railway related beers
28/05/2010 15:24:09
Seems to be about time this website had its official beer tester. I offer my services, free of charge.
Thread: Poor surface finish using Myford
28/05/2010 15:18:49
Steve: Do you have a dial gauge with a magnetic base? If so, place the base on the bed at the headstock end, with the tip of the gauge resting on top of the chuck. Then press upwards on the bottom of the chuck. Movement on the dial should be no more than about half a thou. If more, the bearings could be suspect.
Mike
28/05/2010 14:44:20
Just a thought, but the headstock bearings could be out of adjustment. That's what the big "C" spanner you should have got with the machine is for.
Thread: Tool Post Grinder
27/05/2010 16:34:22
Thanks, guys. Somehow didn't think the sewing machine motor would hack it, so it will stay in the junk box!
Best wishes,
Mike
26/05/2010 14:43:45
Hi Stewart: Just followed your link, and your motor looks like a 75-watt sewing machine motor I have in my junk box. Grateful if you could confirm.
Thread: Code of Conduct
22/05/2010 16:16:11
Thanks, V8Eng - and remember it's not just the people using forums who are vulnerable. The editor would also face legal action.
22/05/2010 13:26:27
I agree with Geoff. As a retired newspaper and magazine editor I know from experience that few people outside the profession understand the laws of libel and defamation. I can also tell you that a very large percentage of libel cases against the written media stem from readers' letters. Any publishing company has to be very careful about what appears in print - and that includes material on websites.
Thread: Keeping it Clean
27/03/2010 11:56:23
Just a note for KWIL about plastic: it depends on the plastic - for instance, the stuff used for shotgun cartridge cases is quite acidic, to the point that it can cause rust in a gun's chambers unless they are carefully cleaned after shooting. However, my knowledge of plastics is so small that I don't know which types are non-acidic.
26/03/2010 16:20:04
Hi Michael
I agree with Steve about wood dust., but what about the dirt that gets left behing when machining metals? Back in the 1980s, when I had to photograph some of the work done on my lathe, I found the best crud remover for the painted parts was Pledge furniture polish. It seems to contain a solvent that dissolves dried cutting fluid and old oil, and it leaves the painted finish nice and shiny without softening it.
I suppose the real answer is to clean the lathe after every job, but I have never had that much energy!
Incidentally, don't ever use this stuff on waxed or oil-finished furniture because, as I said, it dissolves wax and dried oil. However, it's fine for varnished surfaces or the cheaper Ikea-style stuff.
Hope this is helpful.
 
Thread: Thread dial indicator
26/03/2010 15:24:41
Thanks, Gordon. I must be getting senile! I have a copy of Sparey's book, so must find it and read it.
25/03/2010 14:33:04
My engineering instructor back in the 1960s had a method of screwcutting on a lathe without a tdi. All I can remember is that it involved chalk marking the points of engagement on the change wheels. Never did learn the finer points, because the Harrison on which I was instructed had a tdi. Anyone remember how the "chalk mark" method worked?
Thread: Painting a Restored Machine
21/02/2010 15:42:06
Hi James:
Try lathespares.co.uk for Myford lathe paint in either grey or green. They claim it is resistant to coolant, oil and grease, and has high impact and abrasion resistance. Hope this is helpful.
Thread: Heat Treatment of I/C Cylinders
16/02/2010 16:37:38
I am just starting on an IC project (my first) and had considered making the liner out of as-supplied silver steel, with a cast iron piston. Any thoughts from the experts on that?
Also, does anyone have experience of using the small internal hones which are sold for restoring worn hydraulic brake cylinders on cars? Would they give a satisfactory internal finish to the liner?
Any advice will be much welcomed.
<< First < Prev 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Next > Last >>
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