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Member postings for Gordon W

Here is a list of all the postings Gordon W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Boring for a Beginner
27/03/2010 17:50:13
Center hight, didn't realise it was so difficult/ important. I do what I always thought was normal, I've a groove/ scratch on the tailstock mandrel, and for accurate setting there's a bit of bar that is the right length when sat on the cross slide. But I don't do very small dias.
Thread: Thread dial indicator
26/03/2010 10:29:55
The Amateurs Lathe by Mr. L H Sparey has a simple to follow description of chalking the gear wheels for screw cutting.
25/03/2010 15:19:14
Mike, I can only remember how the chalk marks on gears didn't work, as an apprentice cutting a 1/4 in. square thread. Still have nightmares.
Thread: MEW 162 - Phoenix Battery Drills
20/03/2010 16:32:24
I've just been reading the latest MEW, I have noticed several adverts for expensive machinery, beginners should be warned that these ads. can severely affect your marriage. Then I read an article advocating that I stare out the window with my eyes crossed ! do not do this with people around! There is an article about battery drills, I'll read this when my eyes get back to normal.
Thread: Imported Lathes - Which one
01/03/2010 15:18:02
Well here goes:- I bought a new 8" lathe from Chester about  2 yrs ago. I stripped it completely and cleaned etc, much as advised by many. Have made a few mods to suit my usage. I'm very happy with it and at the price a bargain. This is belt drive to mandrel, I made a big pulley to get lower speeds, and tapped the cross slide with a few holes, and made a feedscrew handwheel. Don't know if all belt drives are still available, but I would not worry about it. Hope this helps.
Thread: Frame material for Tich
01/03/2010 15:07:52
David, I live in N Scot., nowhere near you tho'. But:- try ship/boat repair boys, I know there are some near you, usually more helpful than the scrappys as well.
Thread: Drawing projection, first or third?
26/02/2010 17:27:32
As mentioned earlier I was a draughtsman most of my working life, I've drawn on everything from linen and ink (and pounce) to autocad. I worked a lot as a contract draffy, on everything from lawnmower engines to oil production jackets (rigs). Always the main consideration is to draw , clearly and unambiguously, what has to be made. Part outlines thicker than the rest, center distances dimensioned, etc. etc..The tool operative should not have to calculate anything. I could go on. But this is a hobbey to most of us, and not worth all the hassle.
24/02/2010 11:50:40
I'm an ex draffy, did it most of my life. Always get confused over projections. Golden rule is if there can be any doubt, use an arrow to indicate the view. Drawings go all over the world and many standards are in use. Note to the ed, please put center lines on round bits.
Thread: Hand scraping
24/02/2010 11:41:00
I did flat & bearing scraping, long ago as an apprentice. Just about all I can remember is that the marking must be very thinly applied, this shows the high spots, but use common sense, sometimes, on a bearing, the highs will be polished. Stealing this thread, - I've just found 2 of my old scrapers, both HSS, one is a half round, hollow section, working area about 3" long, other is triangular point about 1" long. Question is how are they sharpened?
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
19/02/2010 09:54:10
Thanks for all that, will put in 2 tappings, one at cold end, one just before water jacket. Had not realised until recently how much research is being done, its a good thing.
Thread: How to prepare Hot Rolled Steel for marking/machining
19/02/2010 09:48:09
I use a lot of black bar (hot rolled) mainly because I have lots of short ends, and can't get anything better. Beware of vastly different samples, some m/c well, sometimes can't even drill a hole, also beware the very ends of bars that have been cropped. I always use an angle grinder to take of the outside scale on bigger sections, smaller rounds 1/2" or so usually m/c ok, not as good as leaded en1. Treat it like a casting, get under the skin. Polish with flap disc or sander. Steel left outside usually looses a lot of the scale, just before it goes rusty. Just realise that some of it, and even more so nowadays, is rubbish
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
18/02/2010 11:25:01
Hi all, back again. Finally got started on my engine, now the weather is only -4.
It's based on old designs, seperate power cyl. and hot cyl.
My intention is to make just about everything variable so I can play about and try different settings etc., including pressurisation, well up to 2 or 3 bar.
I have a couple of questions that some more experienced people may help with, - Where is the optimum position along the displacer to take the hot air to power piston? Most designs show it about midway, before cooling section, some show it in the cooling section, my (bad) intuition says should be in the hottest part.  I'm making diffuser bush and gland in a replacable piece ,any sugestions for gland matl. and design? Also am reading Reader and Hooper on Stirling Engines, very useful.  :24:57

Edited By David Clark 1 on 18/02/2010 18:25:51

Thread: steel price
12/02/2010 09:49:00
I don't know the price of bright bar, never seen any for a long time. Black bar, hot rolled, last year was about £1000 a tonne for small quantities (less than a tonne) which I think is outrageous, considering they can't sell the stuff. 20x 20 bar about £3 / metre. PS this is in N. Scotland.
Thread: Turbine Blades
11/02/2010 15:02:27
I don't know if it is at all relevant, but a book called Windpower Workshop by H. Piggot has a chapter on making rotor blades which looks to be useful for this problem. I have looked at making similar ,but don't have the head ,of water, and would go for carving in wood, then casting, or cover with glassfibre.
Thread: Bending steel tube
08/02/2010 11:09:28
I use lead as a filler if at all pos., sand is messy, and if heat
is needed must be very dry.
Cheap plumbers benders with ally formers are made for std.
15mm o/d pipe and are easy to file out  to 16mm if required.
For one offs formers from wood are OK.
Copper exausts make a nice noise, and should be easy to
keep away from the piston.

 

Edited By David Clark 1 on 22/02/2010 15:06:31

Thread: Slow loading pages.
08/02/2010 10:38:31
In my very limited experience of the web this site is just about the fastest to load! We cant get broadband, speeds are measured in Kbs, not Mbs, but only takes a few secs. for this to load, up or down.
Thread: Knurling
03/02/2010 09:56:50
I've never managed a good knurl, and this thread is very interesting. I've got a cheapo scisser tool, I get the impression that knurling under power feed results in more mangled patterns, and hand feed is better, might this be because hand feeding lets the knurls find their own thread, so to speak?
Thread: Tongue in cheek
31/01/2010 10:39:48
two good things, B Bardot, and the brill. 2CV , model engineering at its best.
28/01/2010 10:14:03
Standard lengths and weights, feet, pounds metres, whatever, were introduced over centuries, every time the peasents threatened to revolt because they were fed up getting ripped off. Nothing changed there then. Doesn't matter what you measure in, so long as everybody uses the same.
27/01/2010 10:02:50
According to ( I think) Jules Verne, in measuring the Meridian, the metre was based on an angle subtended at the earths circumferance. Good story anyway.
<< First < Prev 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 Next > Last >>
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