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Member postings for Gordon W

Here is a list of all the postings Gordon W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 Next > Last >>
Thread: Change gears for my lathe
12/10/2010 17:41:07
Thanks for the answer. A worm to suit a gear designed on the /a module system then, but doubt I'll ever need to know.
12/10/2010 11:46:21
Can I ask a question please? What is a Module thread ? I've been in engineering all my life and never heard of it before, my ignorance no doubt.
Thread: Belts - Maintainence & when to change?
08/10/2010 14:55:08
Don't spray anything onto a V belt, they drive off the sides, tighter belt more friction. I would replace the belts if they are that old, modern belts can be more flexible, waste less power. Keeep the old ones tho'.
Thread: Chester DB8V lathe
07/10/2010 09:57:07
Hi, my model, belt drive only, must be about the last made before the variable speed motor became common. No speed control electronics to worry about or slow running motor to get hot.
Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional?
06/10/2010 15:04:18
The metre was originally measured as a distance on the earths surface subtended by some angle or other. We've had all this before deja-vu all over again. Things are the size they are, Whatever they are measured in.
Thread: Chester DB8V lathe
06/10/2010 14:58:06
I bought a Chester DB8 belt drive about 2 yrs ago and am generally very happy with it. I cleaned thourally on delivery, and greased etc. then started cutting metal. After abut a year I stripped it right down, cleaned again, lapped the gib strips etc. . Also made some mods. in the light of experience, fitted a lead-screw handwheel, made a larger pulley to get lower speeds, all these sort of mods are well covered on lots of web sites and articles in MEW etc. Stripping and cleaning is no problem and you learn about your machine, bit messy tho'. Very good value for money, in my opinion.
Thread: Lathe oiling
03/10/2010 13:08:35
I have an oil can which looks very like the Reeves type, but I bought it about 45 yrs. ago, made in Poland I think, This has a tapered brass end, which fits the oilers very well and can force oil under pressure. I did have to de-burr the hole edges on a couple of the oilers tho'.
Thread: Rear mounted tool post
02/10/2010 13:31:25
I asked questions re parting off a year or two ago, here are MY findings, as a newcomer to model engineering. All forces should go thru' the strongest parts, ie. down thru' the beds, not lifted up into a small area of gib strip. I bought an expensive tipped parting tool, the tip fell out when unpacking, and was never seen again. Bought 2 new tips, and still had problems. Stripped the lathe down, polished gib etc. and readjusted everything. Tightened the top slide solid, hardly ever use it anyway. Now can part off with ease, for most work I've gone back to HSS in a simple holder, set at c/h. For deep cuts, ie. over about 10 mm, withdraw tool and move back, to make width greater than tool, this allows for not being square to axis. If chatter or noises start, slow spindle speed. These are just my findings, not expert advice.
Thread: Visit to London
27/09/2010 14:56:17
If I had to go to London again, definitely the Science Museum, spend the rest of the  day researching railway related beers, failing that stick to London Pride. Is this of topic?
Thread: Drill Sharpening Jigs - Advice please.
24/09/2010 10:00:46
I'm no expert on drill sharpening, but. I've used a swing type cheap jig for years, it's ok when you get the hang of it, does from 3mm up to about 15mm. Not precision but pretty good. Also, just bought a self contained (silverline?) sharpener, the tips look dreadfull after grinding, but they do cut well, use it for general purpose drilling, pop rivets etc. For accurate drilling I buy a new drill, sure it works out cheaper.
Thread: Hydraulic Oil Supplier
14/09/2010 17:33:08
I don't know where you live, but I'll repeat; tractor and farm shops sell all sorts of oils ,including, of course, hydraulic oil, and are usually much cheaper than other outlets. I use universal tractor oil, for almost everything, some kind farmer ( there's an oxymoron) gave me about 10 galls. This was used for everything on the machine, engine, g/box, brakes,etc.. If its good enough for a £100,000 m/c it's good enough for me
Thread: help with seeing
09/09/2010 10:34:39
Just a cautionary . I will never use glass spec. lenses again. Had two break over the years, one needed hospital visit. Modern plastic much better than old stuff. Anti-scratch coating is fine ,until it gets scratched, then worse than normal uncoated. Hence my advice to get two pairs, and keep one pair for "clean use" only.
08/09/2010 15:04:33
I have glasses for general walking about, driving, telly, etc. but still read/ do close work unaided. Trouble is I can't see close with specs, or away without. I've tried headbands (cheap) and can't  get away with them. My recommendations are get two for one offers, keep one pair just for workshop use, and mark them. Then you always have a good unscratched pair for best. Get really good lights, amazing the difference they make
Thread: BMS angle not 90 deg
08/09/2010 09:46:19
Will just agree with above. If you need accurate angle, use black steel and m/c square, cheaper as well.
Thread: Measuring the pressure angle of gears
08/09/2010 09:36:20
Last time I did this was about 30 yrs ago, and a big gear, 2 ft. dia and 13 teeth, but might help. Trace tooth on paper and measure angle. From the physical dims of the gear, and assuming yours is a standard pressure angle, with the help of the tables, should be able to be fairly sure. Not well explaiined but might help.
Thread: lathes
02/09/2010 10:16:42
I asked a similar question a year or so ago, drill and tap a few holes in the cross slide, suggest 6mm. Then bolt anything you want onto slide, works very well. You might find that clearance over the top slide is more useful than T slots, I do.
Thread: Soft Jaws
30/08/2010 10:17:27
Thanks for that John, but all I get for the photos is a "no entry" sign, I think I understand tho'. Maybe wasn't clear in orig. posting, I intend to use the old hardened jaws and weld on soft mild steel, soft jaws not being on sale for my cheapy chuck.
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
29/08/2010 16:45:48
Wish I had scrap like that. Whats the rusty bit on top, gas burner? My "big " motor not coming along very well, due to summer, and having to fix house, garden, car etc. Roll on winter.
Thread: Soft Jaws
29/08/2010 16:36:36
I've thought about buying a new set of jaws for my cheapo chuck, they arn't to dear. Then welding, or bolting, mild steel to the old jaws. Any ideas?
Thread: Undersize Taps
26/08/2010 11:41:24
My twopennoth:- the bottom tap usually cuts bigger, I'm assuming the holes are for head studs and are blind, so will need the bottom tap. Do not try to screw into a taper tapped hole, studs only held by two  (or one) thread, could crack hole. Are the studs genuine spares or maybe copies, and undersize ? I would use alloy epoxy for a simple job, weld up, machine etc. for a proper job.
<< First < Prev 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 Next > Last >>
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