Member postings for bricky

I use baby wipes cheap and do the job.

Frank

I too have been impressed with ARC as their service is second to none.i bought an SX3 from them and after several years use it is stil going strong.When asking for advice it is readily forthcoming ,can't fault them.

Frank

Speedy,Don't use T&G boards for the reasons Bazyle gave ,shiplap always needs regular painting .Rough sawn Feather edge boarding is the best and painted with masonry paint it should not need painting for about 10 years.

Frank

Hi Neil. A good idea,but would it be better if it was regionalised so that the whole country could partake in the meetings in their area.This would reduce the travel required and encourage more to participate,I think.

Frank

Started cutting the cams for the rockerblock engine i'm building ,fingers crossed I get them right.

Frank

I took some rubbish to the tip and spotted a lump of steel 9"*6"*6" I no that one can't buy from our tip,so I approached a worker and asked if a 10 pound note would see it to my boot.He said to keep my eye on his boss and open my boot.I'm glad he lifted it in as when taking it out I found out how heavy it was.I bought some 3/4' plate yesterday 12' *6" and this from a mate ,a 10 pound note and no receipt so I think todays buy is a gift.Now to see if I can cut it on my bandsaw ? .

Frank

On my shed I painted the untreated timber in masonry paint and have only repainted the weather sides once in 12 years and that was 11 years after the first coat.Timber seldom rots if water is not tapped behind a paint film. I built a picket fence 36 years ago and have never painted it and there is only small amounts of rot to this day.

Frank

I would agree with jason on a 2"but not a gold medal tractor which I chose to build.A lovely engine but very detailed in it's construction.Whilst building the engine I wished that I had chosen a 3" but now at 72 I am glad I didn't as this small model weighs 95lbs and I find it just enough for me now.

Frank

Hi Don

It is a B Type and is pre 1916 as it dose not have the cast patches on the front of the body which were for the admiralty lathes cross feed.Try looking at the shears at the tailstock end front and back for the number.Mine was a 1920's and was in its original condition with treadle power.

Frank

Welcome Ron.

You won't find a better group of guys to ask questions of ,the knowledge collectivly is astounding .I for one have been helped and am thankful for it.

Frank

I was given a small bench drill which was not of much use to me.I cut off the column after removing the base which left me with the small circular plate which is attached to the base of the column with three holes which I use to secure it to the mill table ,the adjustable tilting table of the drill now forms a useful tool on which I clamp stock to be milled.The spindle I will when time permits make into a topslide drill and grinding spindle and I have the motor.

Frank

I made a parallel bore in mine and made the threaded bar to fit and secured it by drilling a hole at the end of a tee slot with the spindle in place and drilled into it and a long piece of bar which protrudes over the end of the tee slot is pushed in to lock it in place works for me.To drill the hole I silver soldered a drill into a long rod.

Frank

I too am from Lincolnshire and whilst visiting Northern Ireland in the late seventies I went to a pub and I felt a bit worried and was cautious about exposing my English accent.I needn't have worried as our dialect and accent must be a drawl as they thought I was Canadian and I did not enlighten them.

Frank

Riveting wheels is a job I hated and drilling the strakes and riveting seemed enless,if I had started on the wheels and not invested my time in building the boiler I would not have continued.Now I am building the rockerblock IC engine and today I finished the drilling and tapping on the assembled chassis a lot easier than building wheels.

Frank

I have in the past encountered this cracking of the breast above the fire.The cause in these cases was that there was a void above the fire instead of a throating into the flue.Is it possible that this might be the case around your SS liner which will transmit concentrated heat at the lower level .Also I have had to deal with flue problems of the fire surrounds cracking caused by lack of enough air,with fitted plastic windows and doors to elliminate draughts we have reduced the availiable air to cause the flue to draw efficiantly and when instructing clients that an air bick is required they invariably say no to the draught this will cause and the fire requires the amount of air to enter that occupies the flue area.I have had to chop out the breast and form a new flur reducing the void and lime morter is the correct material to use as it can expand unlike cement which cracks in close proximity to heat.Open a window whilst the fire is running to check if the breast cools down this is the first check I would do before doing futher work.

Frank

I don't use a mobile phone and the one I do have will not do twitter,I like to be able to go out without anyone being in touch especialy the wife.I have no wish to be on twitter or facebook but I think that if Neal thinks it will be good for getting in touch with younger people go for it.I asked some youngsters if they would like to see my engines and they said no but reading about it on twitter might spark some interest,as I think like a lot of hobby interests that have already gone our age group will follow unless we accept someone trying to do something about it.

Frank

I think that you need to be checking the taper and not the chuck body as this may not be true with the register on the backplate.

Frank

I as suggested seal the header overflow with a 20mm push fit fitting then using a seling kit which is conical rubber bung inserted into the header tank outlet you will create a vacume ,and using a black bin liner fitted around the valve relese the nut and there will be about 1ltr of water which will drain into the liner do not open the bleed valve.You will be able to remove the valve and replace if neccessary.Nerves of steel required.

Frank

I would have made the walls thicker if I used it but with the information received I will look to getting a bush near to size and machine to fit.Thanks for all the help.

Frank

I am building a small ic open crank engine.The bearings for the cam shaft should be oilite bushes but I am having difficulty in finding the right size.I have read that machining a oilite bush would seal its pores and make it useless so i was wondering if lignum bearings would be any use as plain bronze bearings would be difficult to oil once fitted.I cut to size lignum for bearings for an agricultural engineer who uses these bearings in large food mixers and would like the opinion of members on this issue of useing them in this situation .The shaft is .250" and outside of the oilite is .313".

Frank