Member postings for IanT

Nearer 1912 I think..

IanT

Both my Myford S7 and EW have 8tpi leadscrews, so it is very simply to cut 32 & 40 tpi threads on them - just make sure you use the correct tool form. However, you will probably use ME taps/dies to do this work anyway - unless you need to 'start' the thread for some reason.

For my 'steam' models, I still use BA threads and have all the dies/taps required to do so, as well as a large stock of BA screws/nuts. However, the smaller BA sizes (14/16BA) are now getting very hard to find and where I need something that size or smaller (for my modelling) I've started to use the smaller metric threads.

I also use metric for all my 'new' build tools & fixtures but keep to imperial where the machine was originally built using older screw types. Then, if I go to my 'old' machines, I know what I need in terms of allen key/wrench tools etc e.g. don't mix threads n old machines!

Most (but not all) of my new Chinese stuff uses metric of course.

If I was 30-40 years younger, I would just go with metric but even so, I think ME might be very useful for some things...

Regards,

IanT

I have a long list of around TUITs and it doesn't seem to get any shorter. Some time ago I purchased a sensitive drilling attachment (and matching chuck) thinking it would be useful. Unfortunately, mine had a great deal of sideways play (even when slighly extended) due to a very poor fit between the shaft and its holder. It was put in a drawer and forgotten, only occasionally remembered whilst looking for something else.

Last week (being winter) I milled some small wagon parts on my EW using my Taig milling head and it would have very useful to drill the small holes required at the same time. As it was I had to do it afterwards using a minicraft drill - it worked but was not ideal.

Looking again at the senstive drilling accessory, the shaft was a rather odd 0.2675 thou (rather than the 1/4" I'd originally expected). I found a suitable piece of 1/2" hard brass (same diameter as the original) and drilled and reamed it 17/64ths. It was just a bit too tight. So I ran a 6.8mm drill through and in it went.

I then turned a brass arbor between centres to fit the holder over (using superglue) and turned the outside diameter true. One end I reduced to just under 10mm so that it will fit an ER16 collet chuck. Drilled and tapped a M4 thread for the grubscrew, turned the 'spring' button down to 10mm and assembled it all. No sideways movement at all now and also it fits my Taig head (shown off the lathe in its cradle).

It didn't take that long to do and (like most TUITs) you think "Why didn't I do that sooner?"

Regards,

IanT

(How do you rotate photos?)

No problem and certainly no offense was taken    

In fact I don't think the paintwork was "as it left the factory" because I found a job lot number under the top coat when stripping back. I suspect this machine may have come over during the war and was probably over-coated by Acorntools at some point. My Acorntools 7" Shaper has some of the same blue coloured paint on it too.

But the finish was pretty badlly chipped (back to bare metal) in places and whilst I'm not after a showroom finish, I think a clean & tidy one looks much better and is easier to maintain.

Anyway - everyone will have their own take on this topic but whilst I don't tend to make permanent mechanical mods to my machines - improving the cosmetics is OK in my book! I think my 'girls' (all my machines have names) prefer it too!

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 14/12/2021 16:39:13

Paint Panther mostly Steve. I also used Screwfix 'No Nonsense' paint stripper (easier/quicker to get locally when I ran out).

Both worked but the Paint Panther seemed quicker on a purely subjective basis and possibly needed less coats to get right down to bare metal. The No Nonsense certainly worked but seemed slower - on the plus side it is about half the price though.

I was very much a Nirtomors advocate at one time but it doesn't seem to be the same fomulation these days.

A messy job but old machines tend to use good quality castngs - always nice to see.

It's worth taking time to mask up carefully - just for the smaller detail here

Brush painted but hard wearing. Painting over small masked parts makes life easier. Colour may be contentious but it only has to please me!

But it does all take time....

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 14/12/2021 11:41:05

It will add quite a bit of time to the re-build Steve but generally I think it's worth doing if you are stripping the machine right down - and you intend to keep it.

I started out to fix a few things on my Atlas MF but had to virtually completely strip it to get inside the headstock, so decided to re-paint her whilst in pieces. So everything was disembled, stripped, cleaned, masked up and brush painted (inside and out). I've used a good quality machine enamel btw. Found some worn/broken/missing parts in the process, so I'm making replacements and I've also decided that I might as well change all the bearings including the main Timkens!

It still won't be like 'new' but hopefully she will be much improved and more to the point, I won't be using the machine wishing that I should have done 'this or that' when I had the chance....

But it all takes time.

Regards,

IanT

I'd try flushing it out first Steve - degreaser and old paint brush to get things moving.

Regards,

IanT

Not a really problem with the smaller MF machine NDIY but the Victoria's head is very heavy. Holding it in place whilst locating the holding bolts was quite a struggle for one person - even the 'younger' me.

The solution was a MT3 taper with a square steel plate on the end. For stability, this was screwed to a larger ply board. When inserted in the head's MT3 spindle (and the spindle bolt done up) the table can be raised until it supports the weight of the head. The head can then be unbolted and lowered by the table. Mounting is the reverse process. The head can then be slid on and off the table without too much effort. A very simple idea but it makes the process so much easier (and safer) especailly once you get on a bit.

Regards,

IanT

Yes, the B&S book is very good reference Steve - my edition is from 1941.

Also "Running a Miling Machine" by Fred Colvin is quite useful (reprinted by Lindsay Publications). Both are aimed at 'industrial' users but you can always skip over the bits that don't apply to your needs.

However, I'd suggest that as a starter, you read a few articles published in Practical and Popular Mechanics magazines back in the 40's & '50s. They were sponsored by the Atlas Press Company and were really promotional items for their 'benchtop' MF horizonal mill. They are very useful for the basics and I think you would find them useful. As the happy owner of an old MF Horizonal mill, of course it's no coincidence that I have these scanned as PDFs. If you PM me (with your email) - you could probably have them too!

My two pennies about 'mills' - if you only have the space for one mill - then a vertical type makes good sense.

However, if you already have a horizontal mill, then the obvious thing to get (or make) is a vertical quill for it and then you have the best of both worlds. I've got two horizontals, the little MF and a far heavier Victoria H0. Both have vertical heads, in fact my MF has two. They are both 'knee' machines and are pretty rigid in use.

As already mentioned, not too many folk use horizontals these days, so they don't tend to be appreciated that much but they can be very useful tools - you just need a slightly different mind set.

Regards,

IanT

Example below - end milling a part held in an ER32 block

Sounds familar Bricky??

Gingery Shaper Speeds

Regards,

IanT

I don't know if this will be helpful to you ian but from the Solid Edge Help/Support site (Importing/Exporting Files)

" dxf and .dwg format files can be opened in the Draft environment as 2D geometry. The translation options available for these files vary based on the creation methods of the originating CAD system. You can generate .dxf and .dwg files in systems other than AutoCAD.

The Draft environment will open .dxf and .dwg files created in AutoCAD version 12 through AutoCAD 2011. Solids created with Autodesk are output to .sat format as they are encountered in the AutoCAD file. " 

AutoCAD to Solid Edge Translation Wizard     Also link to Translation Wizard help

I've not needed to do this myself yet but it seems welll documented.

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 28/11/2021 23:47:35

Yes - I was doing very little mileage during lockdown and my 5 year old car wouldn't always start after a week or so on the drive. Tried re-charging but it increasingly didn't seem to work. Investigated and found out I was probably accelerating it's demise. This link explains the problem...

Can I use any battery charger?

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 23/11/2021 17:13:17

I will just mention that newer (Start Stop) batteries do not like old battery chargers (don't ask how I know!)

I now have a new 'Start Stop' charger (from Halfords) that offers 'fast' & 'trickle charge' settings which seem to be fine. It was much cheaper than the new battery.

The old battery charger is now regulaled to rust removal (electrolysis) duties - for which it is ideal.

Regards,

IanT

Hi Frank,

Most small Shapers have speeds in the range 40-200 strokes per minute. The actual cutting speed then varies with the stoke length used. I'm not familiar with the Gingery design but this is the FPM table for a 7" Atlas which would be similar I suspect. I don't know what adjustments are available or what cranking arrangement you intend to use but essentially - you need to be able to vary the 'foot per minute' speed to suit the material you are cutting. If the stroke length is fixed, then this will purely be down to the pulley/motor set-up.

As it states on the table - 40 to 60 FPM is a good area to aim for if your options are limited.

Regards,

IanT

Has some simliarites to a Pallas mill but I think this one is a little larger and the Pallas has a seperate countershaft. May be from the same family though.

I have a Pallas 'column' in the Shed - one of those projects that was overtaken by events...

Regards,

IanT

Yes, i'm running it on Win10 'Home' too Rik.

Regards,

IanT

Hi Gerard,

Yes, SE-CE 2022 now has a "Physical" thread option for 3D printing (now part of 'Thread' tool defintion) - although the system warns you that "implementing it may cause performance impact" - but it's there if you need it.

There are lot's of other small changes I've noticed but nothing that have caused me any problems and some that are helpful. I was disappointed in the apparent license change but then I've had 18 months free SE useage so far and will have another three years before this version "expires". Hopefully, the next update will extend this life again - we'll have to see. Siemens seem to be keeping the Community Edition in step with the commercial SE product and are updating annually it seems. SE2022 was released on Oct 6th this year.

Other than that, I'm still very happy with Solid Edge.

Regards,

IanT

PS Pleased to see you go your problem sorted John

I'm afraid I've some not-so-good news...

Looking around my new SE 2022 Community Edition, I've noticed that in "About" - the new license will expire in 1,145 days - a limitation that my earler version did not have as far as I'm aware.

Looking at the Siemens download page more closely earlier, it also seems that the term "Lifetime License" has been changed to "Has a License that does not expire" - although this seems to be contradicted by the expiry period given in "About". If this means that you need to upgrade every year or so, it won't be a problem if every upgrade comes with a further three years license - but we'll have to see.

I'm personally still very pleased with Solid Edge CE and I'm not going to step back to SE 2020 - but other folks concerns about potential future changes to the Siemens terms do seem to have some basis.

So, I thought I'd better point this change out to potential SE users here sooner than later...

Regards,

IanT

Solid Edge 2022 was announced on October 6th and I've just been very pleased to find out that you can also now download this 2022 version under the free 'Community Edition' scheme.

It's a 3.6Gb download, which took a little while on my (non-fibre) internet connection. I also had to de-install SE-CE 2020 before I could install the newer 2022 version. However, everything seems to be working well with my existing SE drawings, which were drawn with the older version. There does seem to be some kind of adjustment happening on first opening them under the newer software though.

There seem to be a lot of "upgrades" (550 apparently) but I haven't had time to really explore them as yet. I've jumped a version (20 to 22) but generally the Ui seems very much the same at the level I'm working at (e.g. Dummy)

There was one upgrade I was hoping to see - 2.5 CAM Pro - which was announced as part of SE 2022 but which I don't seem to have. The CAM icon is there in 'Environs' but the CAM software doesn't seem to be installed.

Just to re-iterate - I'm running this on a Win10 (Home) i5 Laptop and older Windows/PCs will probably not be suitable. I would also strongly suggest you use this download page, as Googling may not find you the correct version.

Solid Edge 2022 - Community Edition

Regards,

IanT

Hello John,

I've been running Solid Edge 2020 for about 18 months and have been meaning to download the latest edition - assuuming it would be 2021.

I've just downloaded the latest Solid Edge Community Edition and was surprised (and pleased) to find it is the latest 2022 Edition - which was released by Siemens on October 6th!

I'm afraid I can't help with your problem - but would just ask if you are running Win10 (I use 'Home' ) and also if you downloaded from the link I provided in the first post or somewhere else?

Hi Graham - yes, I'm using Win10 'Home' on a nearly 6 year old i5 Laptop.

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 12/11/2021 17:29:49