Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: cnc wrapper by richardandtracy |
04/07/2019 16:56:07 |
Good to see the words "Made in England". Haven't heard from r&t for a bit? |
Thread: Model Engineering Overseas |
04/07/2019 12:44:53 |
Herewith: |
04/07/2019 12:38:19 |
Just spotted that the missing page is printed in Guy Lautard's The Machinist's Bedside Reader. By way of review of this excellent and informative work I will scan a brief extract and post shortly. |
Thread: Threaded rod |
04/07/2019 11:59:13 |
Sobering to think that these used to be made by hand turning methods. I believe this is an example: I seem to remember that in his classic "The Practical Woodturner" Frank Pain suggested that the men who did this work went mad! Edited By ega on 04/07/2019 11:59:53 |
Thread: Model Engineering Overseas |
04/07/2019 11:12:20 |
Hopper: Many thanks for the link which allowed me to re-visit this inspiring story; I love the use of the "hide in plain sight" idea. Does anyone have a link to the apparently missing page 159 or know if the lathe still exists? |
Thread: Tungsten Putty? |
30/06/2019 13:47:35 |
Posted by Thor on 30/06/2019 13:43:38:
Posted by ega on 30/06/2019 11:18:50:
Tungsten: means heavy stone in Danish. Yes, it means heavy stone, but are you sure it isn't Swedish? See here. Thor Bra! They are two very similar languages as fans of "The Bridge" will know. |
30/06/2019 11:18:50 |
Tungsten: means heavy stone in Danish. |
Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please! |
28/06/2019 18:43:35 |
Posted by Martin King 2 on 28/06/2019 17:06:18:
Eva, You are quite correct, the original screws were cheese headed. Two of them were so seized that I had to saw them off from under the retaining plate. Then had to redrill into the old screws and tapped M8 to fit cap screws I already had. Did not want to spend more time on this as it is designed to make a profit! currently on you know where regards, Martin Fair enough - you were "pressed" for time and possibly a little "cheesed off" by the end of the exercise! |
28/06/2019 11:30:46 |
Very pleasing pictures! A small quibble: would it be more correct to replace the three cap screws at the foot of the screw with cheese heads? |
Thread: Removing Broken Tap |
28/06/2019 11:22:16 |
Glad the problem is solved. After vainly trying most of the methods mentioned above, I successfully removed a broken tap using a Walton brand tap extractor - one tool I hope never to have to use again! These extractors are equipped with fingers which are inserted into the flutes thus allowing the tap to be turned. Unlike many tools they come with comprehensive instructions and the promise of free replacement of damaged parts (other than the fingers). |
Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please! |
22/06/2019 09:46:47 |
Martin King 2: Good luck with the U bolts. I realised after suggesting this that the common type consisting of a U-shaped rod with threaded ends would be impossible to fit to the normal tee-slotted table but no doubt you spotted that, too! The effective arrangement would be two studs with an inverted U (or yoke) on top retained by nuts. I thought your idea of introducing some slightly compliant packing - lead, aluminium, etc - was a good one. |
Thread: The World of Buckminster Fuller |
21/06/2019 22:49:37 |
Michael Gilligan: Thanks for the pointer to a fascinating programme. I have long been an RBF fan and am sure they could have made a dozen such programmes without exhausting the scope of his work. |
Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please! |
21/06/2019 17:28:19 |
Try vee blocks under the work instead of the parallels I think I see in your photo. Better still, clamp the work via U bolts as well. Edited By ega on 21/06/2019 17:29:38 |
Thread: Odd sized strong bar |
19/06/2019 14:22:57 |
Strong bar or flexible handle? On reflection perhaps the former name (new to me) is a better one. |
Thread: Changing Tapers on an Arrand boring head. |
19/06/2019 09:57:08 |
Posted by Lambton on 19/06/2019 09:17:55:
Andrew, I have an old Arrand catalogue dated 2003 in which it states - "Boring heads have interchangeable shanks. Threaded interchangeable shanks are available (see chart opposite) so boring head can be used on machines with different tapers , or if you change you machine, a nrew shank can easily fitted to suit." The "chart opposite) list a wide variety of shanks not just Morse taper ones. Very unfortunately, Arrand ceased trading some years ago probably because of Far Eastern completion Eric Agreed, but I gather they are prepared to sell such remaining items as they have in stock - see my post above for contact. Edited By ega on 19/06/2019 09:57:36 |
18/06/2019 22:07:34 |
PS It is possible to phone Arrand and talk to the proprietor's son though I don't know how far he could help. Posting this in the hope of anticipating your attack on the taper and will add the number if I can find it by searching the site. PPS See penultimate post here: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=94955 Edited By ega on 18/06/2019 22:09:53 |
18/06/2019 21:38:02 |
I believe these are just screwed in with a RH thread. So, essentially, grip the shank and give the head a sharp tap in the appropriate direction. I have done this successfully but don't remember the precise method. The shank could be gripped in the machine's own taper and the tap delivered via a suitably-gripped boring tool. The basic idea is to use the inertia of the shank against some shock loading to the head. I would guess that a boring head shank would be easier to remove than the same make of flycutter shank because of the intermittent action of the latter. Edited By ega on 18/06/2019 22:02:57 |
Thread: Improving runout in a slitting saw |
17/06/2019 23:05:46 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 17/06/2019 22:23:40:
I suspect that the only way to 'correct' an eccentric saw would mount it by the teeth and re-bore the hole. ... Could get tedious MichaelG. Wouldn't it be better to mount it by the bore and re-grind the teeth? |
Thread: Free cutting mild steel |
17/06/2019 10:56:23 |
You could follow the advice for the Quorn and use Loctite to combine the components, perhaps. If there is a flange next to a paper "blotter" I would recommend (free-cutting) stainless steel to avoid rusting. |
Thread: Hi I am Mick and am very interested in the Aveling & Porter Roller |
15/06/2019 11:02:48 |
Posted by Michael Ritchie on 13/06/2019 12:51:38:
I live in Banbury If you are ever in Kent you might care to visit the Old Brook Pumping Station in Chatham where an A&P diesel roller is apparently on display. See: oldbrookpumpingstation.co.uk |
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