Member postings for ega

Some special rods do better at 80 volts. Heating the work might also help, as might peening the weld as it cools.

Brian

Thanks for your comments on my post. There certainly was coolant but at times I struggled to see where the large chips being produced were going. The video did indeed make clear that the timber cushion was cut to size by the sharp edge of the bore.

Plus one for your comment about the holding arrangement. The secondary steady reminded me of the bushing steadies favoured by Martin Cleeve.

What GHT likened to Harry Lauder's walking stick!

Thanks for the link. Those prepared timber blanks look like oak or ash; presumably turned and then split in two. I wonder how this method would work in a blind hole; in the video the chips seemed to be exiting at the chuck.

Allen

Might you post some photos of your woodturning tools and accessories (an interest of my own)?

Did you ever meet the other half of Duplex?

A good reason for using DuckDuckGo although it seems US-centric and sometimes doesn't find things Google can.

I am a very satisfied user of a free, simple notes app called Rdex. Amongst other things, it helps me keep track of workshop equipment on PC and Android phone. Here is the link to to the author's website:

http://pnewman.com/rdex/rdex-windows.htm

In this kind of situation, apart from thanking the provider and giving "feedback", I "pay forward" ie, try to do something for someone else.

I assume the property is in the north of England and that there are no intervening leaseholds ie it's just a case of your long lease and the freehold.

The first thing to do is to read the terms of the lease carefully and then decide whether buying in the freehold would be advantageous.

If the property is registered then the transfer of the freehold is straightforward.

I have a Reilang with a flexible connector for hydraulic nipple which worked well until I managed to break the lever when trying to get oil into a stubborn nipple.

I would be interested to know the model of Reilang you are using for this purpose.

This misnomer is unfortunately too well-established to be suppressed.

PS I notice that Graham Meek offered "bias" as an alternative, too.

I hope he can be persuaded to write up his adaptation.

MichaelG:

Thanks for the link which I will pursue. In the meantime, as a patent buff, you may be interested in the three point arrangement of the Tormek work rest which I hope is clear from my photo:

The wedging action is such that when the black knurled clamp screw is loosened the rest retains its position but is readily removed.

I would accept "urge" to describe the action of the clamp here; in other situations, "bias" might be appropriate.

MichaelG:

You are correct; I assume the reason is to achieve a greater wedging effect.

The design is something of a compromise and I think the "lowly" version has the advantage of better clamping.

Edited By ega on 08/10/2019 15:38:41

I have found it possible to tell one from the other by feel. They could be marked in some way. Of course, none of this will be easy if the wrong-way-round pads can't be removed from their bores!

BTW, isn't the Gibraltar toolpost secured in the same way and therefore rotatable, too? (Your earlier post refers).

Don't forget the magnet test.

Unless your flanges are rustproof I suggest you make the blotters from something that won't harbour moisture.

In the earlier photos there was no cutter in place so for the purpose of the photos below I have just picked one out at random and installed it. The bar and cutter are entirely straightforward and made to GHT's words and music.

BTW, I am not sure that ETW had anything to do with this; the DW mill was, of course, a development of ETW's work and something of an ME milestone.

No wonder GHT called them "splendid"!

Have they finished "stabilising" the town?

Axminster Power Tools sell some fancy dovetail saws and might help you.

I agree that it would be useful to know if any saw doctors survive. I used to sharpen and set my own but, like you, am not now confident of doing so.

I now tend to reach for a Japanese pull-saw whose blade can, of course, be replaced when blunt.

Edited By ega on 06/10/2019 17:28:25

Thanks for the helpful photos of the advancing bracket. The GHT mods can be seen here:

and here:

He was perhaps a little hard on the Dore design and, justifiably, proud of his own precision boring head. Arnold Throp's idea was to produce a slide that could be made without milling facilities and the kit came with the bronze casting already screw-cut for the lathe spindle.