Member postings for ega

Brian Wood and Neil Wyatt:

Many thanks for the instant replies.

I had previously looked at both the RS and Farnell websites and had no joy. It may well be that a more savvy searcher would get a result. One problem is not knowing the function of the capacitor; normal motor capacitors are, of course, a good deal more bulky than the one in question.

I did wonder about its precise function. My conclusion was based on the idea that these rather puny motors (60W in the present case) have to start under load. I will, however, as a temporary expedient, try to see whether the machine, including the speed control, will run without the capacitor.

In the meantime, does any other knowledgeable member confirm Neil's suggestion?

After scanning the long list of topics I have opted for this one.

I decided I should either scrap my old Jones VX561 domestic sewing machine or replace the motor, which appeared to have failed. However, dismantling the “three prong socket” into which the power lead is plugged revealed an apparently burnt out capacitor; the separately located motor seems itself to run OK when connected directly ie without the capacitor.

I assume that the capacitor is either for starting and/or running the motor and nothing to do with the built-in machine light.

The capacitor is marked "nichicon JAPAN" and is rated at 0.05 uF 250 VAC. Being situated inside the socket on the machine, it needs to be no larger than the existing at about 1" long by 1/2" diameter.

I have tried in vain to locate a suitable replacement and am wondering whether the technology has moved on to the point where such capacitors are no longer available (my electrical knowledge is minimal).

Can anyone suggest a source for a replacement, please?

JohnF

Glad to hear that your PCF S7 has served you so well.

My own 60s non-PCF machine is on its second cross slide feedscrew and nut. I replaced both but I believe the thinking was that the relatively cheap die cast nuts could be changed without necessarily replacing the screw.

Good advice on the lathes.co.uk website, in particular that some link belts may be difficult to move on and off the large sheave on the countershaft.

I bought my clamp rather than convert an existing one and found the standard ring nut slow and awkward to use. The problem was solved by making a quick nut; close inspection of the second picture will show the relief to the thread which allows instant tighteneing and loosening.

This got my attention because although I recall replacing the felt wick when I re-built my S7 many years ago I could remember nothing about the spring and wondered whether I had inadvertently failed to replace it!

However, I note from the manual that the spring is retained by a sealing plug beneath which is an O ring and my guess is that I left the spring, etc in place - commonsense suggests that the wick would have long since stopped working if the spring were absent.

I agree that it seems unnecessary to renew the spring but as a matter of good practice the wick and O ring should no doubt be replaced when there is an opportunity to do so.

Edited By ega on 26/03/2018 15:32:43

So far as I can see this is a genuinely new piece of software so it is understandable that it was written for current machines including, as it is cloud-based, mobile devices (this seems to imply that modern phones are 64 bit, too).

Incidentally, there is a good deal of fascinating Autodesk history at fourmilab.ch but it predates Fusion.

As a Fusion 360 novice I should not be surprised to be corrected but I understand the current program is 64 bit only.

Martin King 2:

This looks very similar to my picture. Can you confirm that your tool has no maker's mark?

I just wonder where Salaman got "Tectool" from.

Gordon W:

Here is an alternative form which could be suitable for shop manufacture:

The picture is from Ernest Joyce's Technique of Furniture Making.

Bob Lamb:

Your second tool looks very like the "Tectool" shown in Salaman's Dictionary of Tools. The first part of the entry reads:

"Tectool Fig 704

The trade name given to a modern grooving tool. Two narrow cutters are mounted on a stock and slope in opposite directions to suit the grain."

Has anyone used one of these and is it "far less laborious"?

Gordon W:

This is the sort of thing I had in mind:

**LINK**

One for screws would no doubt be smaller and the cutting element HSS or, perhaps, TC.

I prefer to perform this operation in the lathe using a suitable fixture but it is a time-consuming job.

Gordon W:

There used to be a tool like the one you envisage for chamfering the ends of wooden dowels. I will try to find a picture.

John Haine:

You have reminded mo of one of my pet hates, namely, manuals which cover a range of machines.

I think it would pay new Myford to make all available manuals downloadable from their website.

colin wilkinson:

Thanks for the link - my enjoyment was increased once I realised you can click twice on the rather murky photos to get a larger image.

MichaelG:

Thanks, as so often, for the definitive link. So far as I could see, however, the makers do not specify the type, etc of the "OEL" which should be used to lubricate.

In the Centres PDF they say that most modern lathes are equipped with taper roller bearings (presumably, to the spindle). I know very little about modern machines and wonder how true the statement is today.

Gepy (Swiss) - good but expensive.

I believe the locals call Macclesfield "Macca" (not sure how they spell it).

Otley:

Possibly too late to be of help but a point to bear in mind if you are getting an Android phone and plan to keep it for a year or so is that at some stage the manufacturer will stop providing Android updates.

Google phones are sometimes recommended for the reason that the latest Android version will be available quickly but, of course, at some stage your hardware will not support the latest version.