Member postings for EdH

The problem can now be solved I think.

John Hinkley: Your hints on the translation make sense as the “specify rod” turns out to be the “draw bar” which fixes or locates another part, i.e. a collet.

Dick H: The second link leads to an English translation of the manual in two sections, in section one for the horizontal mill there is a diagram and parts list which has a better description of the parts than the vertical mill. The manual for the horizontal mill includes a diagram for the vertical head attachment which has the same internals as the vertical mill.

The two parts I was tracking down turn out to be the “Part 268 Draw bar for vertical milling attachment” and “ Part 269 Nut for loosing the tool”.

So it looks like you hold Part 269 and the large conical nut.

Just to help clear any confusion between the vertical and horizontal part numbers they are V321 = H268 and V322 = H269. The large conical nut has the collet fit inside it.

mgnbuk: We were holding the large conical nut (55mm AF) and trying to undo the drawbar but as the drawbar is only 9mmAF it didn’t seem large enough to take the force. What the above parts list indicates I think is to hold Part 269 and the conical nut. I thought Part 269 was attached to the splines on the spindle but it seems it can't be in this case.

Part 269 is 36mm dia and has 4 slots to take drive pegs. I have a C spanner to fit this size but may make a socket with 4 drive pegs so as not to damage the slots.

Thank you for your help.

I will let you know how we get on with this.

Thanks for the links JohnF.

We had another go at undoing the collet nut today using more ignorance and a bigger hammer but it won’t budge.

Tried translating what must be technical German but don’t understand what a “specify rod “ is.

We’ll keep trying.

Cox Engines!

I had a Cox Tee Dee 15 in the early 60’s and I only ran it once for about 10 seconds. It must be the loudest noise I have ever heard and that includes standing 10 feet in front of Richie Blackmore’s 200 watt amps in the late 60’s. It must have started in fully leaned out mode as it dragged the heavy wooden stool it was attached to along a path and on a nylon 8x4 prop. It went back into it’s bubble pack immediately afterward to be put in the back of the cupboard. I still have it, I still have the shock from when it ran as well. I can still remember that perfect silence when it stopped and the sound of breaking crockery from all the houses where I lived as people reacted to the noise and dropped their tea trays in horror.

Thanks for the replies to my request for assistance on the Steinel SV4 mill.

Thor: If we can’t work out how to lock the spindle then investing in a manual might be the answer but it’s a hefty price and in German I suspect.

Brian: My friend can’t reach both the nut on the spindle and the collet at the same time and then hit the spanner with a hammer so I’ll visit next week to give a hand or take photos of him attempting to do this.

As you say there should be a spindle lock on it somewhere as I don’t see an industrial machine would have been acceptable without one if it’s going to take more than one person to change a cutter.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Does anyone have any knowledge of Steinel SV4 vertical milling machines and could help me with this problem please?

A friend has a Steinel SV4 vertical mill purchased from a late club members estate but unfortunately it did not come with a manual so we are guessing at some of the features.

The problem is how do you remove the MT collets from the collet holder?

There is a square (approx 1/2” , 12.7mm) on the top of the quill which may be a drawbar lock and a large flat spanner that fits some approx 2” (50mm) flats on the collet locking nut. Do you hold the square and use the spanner on the flats or is there some way of locking the spindle so you can use the spanner and how much force should be required to undo the collet nut as it’s seems solid at the moment?

Any ideas please?

I have a Burnerd Model TP Type 1 tool post set in a wooden box, don’t think it’s ever been used certainly not by me.

Six tool holders and a slave to balance the load.

3 RH

1 LH

1 Parting

1 Boring bar

1 Slave

It came with a photo copy of an advertisement showing eight different types of tool holder (plus the slave) that were available for it .

I’ve never attempted to use it.

Hi Greg,

I'm not sure if there is more than one loco design called Ajax but the one on the AJ Reeves site has a bore of 1.625" and a stroke of 2.250" so larger then the dimensions you provided.

With 4 bolts to the steam chest the horizontal would be a 10H 3/4” x 3/4” bore and stroke

and the vertical also with 4 bolts an early No7 1” x 1” bore and stroke according to a facsimile of the 1906 Stuart Turner catalogue I have. Don’t know when they changed the standard from the ones seen here to a fully cast version.

I have added some photos in my Albums under "4 Digit Tacho" if you want to see a scruffy installation but it does work.

Sorry but my tabbed numbers did not work out as I hoped , hope it still makes sense.

Interesting to see that there is another way to wire it up than the one I used.

I got some info from here:

**LINK**

(note spelling mistake so cut & paste)

and some more from here:

**LINK**

The wiring is marked on the PCB. With the connector on the bottom, the 5 pins are left to right

1 2 3 4 5

[Sensor Power +5V] [Sensor O/P] [Sensor GND] [Supply +12V] [Supply GND]

Ignore the dot, dashes and plus signs on the cable as they are different on all the ones I’ve seen.

My version is :

1 2 3 4 5

Sensor O/P not used not used Supply +12VDC Supply GND

This may be wrong as there is a small plus sign on the right of the characters on pins 1 & 5 or is that part of the character? Anyway mine work ok.

On the 5002C Hall Effect Proximity Detector I also have two wiring versions from the small label on them, one shows

a pull-up resistor to positive and the other to negative, I used a 220 Ohm resistor to positive.

I am using a Regulated 12VDC 0.5A power adaptor .

The Sensor is polarity conscious so get the magnet the right way round. I have used a bigger countersunk magnet on the Myford and screwed it on the pulley in one of the balancing holes (Oops!) and the one on the VMC Mill just relies on the magnetism as it sits in the recess under the spindle pulley so can’y fly off at speed. There is a screwhead down behind the pulley on the Myford so the magnet and retaining screw need to be slim to miss this.

I have put a variable speed setup on my Myford so no longer know what rpm it is running at and needed a way to monitor this so I put the magnet on the pulley inside the casing so this only indicates the direct drive

RPM so I will have to do a calculation to show what the direct drive RPM should be when running via the

back gears, I couldn’t think of a way to monitor the spindle directly so had to use this method for now.

I have used the suggestion from John W1 and installed WINE on my iMAC and then downloaded the Charlie Dockstader Simulator and it works.

Haven’t looked at the other simulators yet but I can run Windows progs now on a MAC OSX without having to install Windows as WINE lets you just execute the programs and I don’t have to worry about Windows viruses either and it didn’t cost a penny.

Thanks John W1 and everybody else who contributed suggestions.

Took a couple of hours to install as I had to wake a few brains cells up from retirement hibernation but worth the time taken.

Thanks for the responses.

Good to know it works with Windows 8.1 thought it might have had problems past XP, I never did install Vista when I had a windows system.

Next part of the question is as I now only have an iMAC I need to run Windows in a Bootcamp partition on OSX, has anyone done this?

Would someone please tell me what version of Windows I need to run the Allan Wallace and Charlie Dockstader’s valve gear simulators as I want to run them in Bootcamp mode on an iMac running OS X 10.10 ?

I’ll have to buy a copy of Windows so would like to know if it works before I spend any money.

I know it's supposed to work in theory but has anyone actually done this and if so where there any problems?

Search for "lubricating lathes" and you'll find some information there.

There is a site http://journeymans-workshop.uk/lathemaint.php covering the gearbox oil change for a Warco WM250V, if you follow this see my entry in the above "lubricating lathes" should you want to use car gearbox oil.

EdH

04/06/2015 16:54:40

I might have the inserts you are looking for

Made by Iscar Ltd and marked

IC20

TPY 433

TPUN 220412

K10

pack of 5

20.2mm along sides

4.7mmthick

Look like the one in your last photo, no hole in centre

PM me if your interested.

EdH

I have just completed the modification to the gearbox on my WM280 as described by journeyman on his website http://journeymans-workshop.uk/lathemaint.php using the same oil Halfords Gear Oil EP 80W/90 GL-4, before doing this I read up on the oil specifications and found out that the GL rating is very important as GL-4 is safe to use on yellow metal bearings, brass, phosphor bronze, etc but GL-5 will corrode them so be careful which one you use.

The back of the gearbox plate that you have to remove to install the mod was 1/8" thick spongy rust and the residue in the bottom of the gearbox was a gooey mess so stripped the whole assembly down and cleaned it but you have to put a chamfer on the holes the gear change knob shafts pass through as otherwise the sharp edge cuts the sealing o rings tops off.

Resealed it with a flange sealant and all working well now with no leaks.

Thanks to journeyman for the description.

It's worth reading up on the different oil specs as it seems unwise to use an engine oil designed for hot environments in a cold gearbox, remember there's no engine heat to transfer through the casings and engines and gearboxes work under different conditions. Engine oil is slippery but so's hair oil and bath oil but you wouldn't use them in a gearbox - or would you?

Hi Bob,

You can read about ED engines here, it's quite long so a FIND for Sea Otter might help

http://modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_story.html

Hi Bob Rodgerson.

Your engine looks like an ED Sea Otter 3.46cc marine diesel

Does it have a R/C throttle?

Edited By EdH on 26/03/2015 17:22:20

GS Model supplies list it in their online catalogue under Misc Parts > Lubricator Sight Feed Glasses

http://www.gssmodelengineers.com

No connection, just a satisfied customer