Member postings for Peter Hall

I Googled 3440700 on your behalf and it comes up in the catalogue as a revolving centre, not a follow rest.

Pete

You can lock up the carriage tight if you are only using the cross-slide or topslide to move your tool. It removes one possible source of play. I have unimat and toyo lathes with the same sort of lathe bed. In my experience you'll never entirely eliminate all the play in the carriage. There will probably be some adjustment underneath the carriage. To access that, you'll have to turn the machine upside down. Oh. And if that's a drip tray underneath, you'll have to remove that too. If this hobby doesn't keep you fully occupied for the forseeable future,I'm a Dutchman

Pete

Edited By Peter Hall on 30/08/2015 13:18:12

That's the carriage lock. You only need to tighten that when you want to lock the carriage in one place.

Pete

And, sadly, that's the price we pay for the convenience of shopping online. I don't like it either, but it beats driving to Dunstable, Mytholmroyd or, indeed, Shanghai to fetch the stuff in person, pay cash and avoid the marketing departments. Perhaps not too much to put up with in the greater scheme of things.

Pete

Edited By Peter Hall on 10/05/2015 13:46:01

I've had joints fail with Cascamite too. It has a short shelf life. If you've not used it before you would probably do well to avoid it.

Pete

I too would try the PU glue. I've not had much experience with tropical hardwoods, but I have had bonds fail using (yellow) PVA-type adhesives on Iroko, which is similar to teak. Polyurethane can be messy to use. Try not to get it on surfaces where you don't want it. And clamp up the job as Brian suggests.

Pete

I have a Perris lathe which takes the same tooling as the Cowells. I made my own tapers, but used my Myford to do so. I have a regular length 0MT dead centre which I use as a reference to set the topslide angle with a dial gauge. Not too difficult, and once I got it right I turned loads of blanks for the Perris (thin end) and my Sherline (fat end) some in mild steel and some in silver steel.

Pete

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. It's always good to have a choice of alternatives and I'm pretty well sorted now.

Pete

John, that's excellent, thank you. Looks like I have an identical chuck to yours.

Pete

Thanks for that. I'll be using that idea in future.

Pete

Thanks Les, but the taper is inside the chuck and my dial indicator won't fit in the .25" hole. Turning morse tapers is not a problem as I have existing tapers to reference against. It's the jacobs taper to fit inside the hole in the back of the chuck I'm struggling with. I'm not afraid of having a go, I just wondered if there might be any shortcuts or standard procedures to follow while doing so.

Pete

Buying one would be good, but it's #0 Jacobs taper to#0 Morse taper and I don't know where to find one. I've looked on Jacobs's website and even they don't do one. If I buy a blank Morse taper, I still have to turn the Jacobs taper

Pete

I am making some tooling for my Sherline lathe and need to turn a #0 Jacobs taper to fit a small drill chuck. I have no reference taper to hand (but I do have the dimensions from the ME Handbook). Sparey gives some hints and tips, but basically can only suggest creeping up on it. Does anyone here have any suggestions on setting up my topslide to do the work? Are there any rules of thumb to follow? I will be doing the work on my Myford Speed 10 and have successfully turned the smallest morse tapers with reference tapers and a dial gauge to set up.

Thanks in anticipation.

Pete

First you'll need a corkscrew. I don't suppose you have ever published the drawings for one of these?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31cl8Obftdg

Pete

Edited By Peter Hall on 26/06/2014 07:20:51

At the risk of going off at a slight tangent....

When I was at school in the late sixties I did "Metalwork" classes. To gain rudimentary skills in forging, we were required to make a set of three throwing knives. Oh, how I yearn for the good old days .

Pete

Hi Gray,

Thank you for your comprehensive description; it looks a straightforward job. I can probably work out the downfeed and vertical feedscrew mods for myself, but if you have the opportunity to post drawings and/or pictures I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one interested to see how you did it.

Just to add my tuppence worth to the thread, I have 2 X1 mills: one Clarke which I used for two years before the small table size became a nuisance (it is now my drill press) and a second-hand, but essentially unused Sieg machine with the larger table which I have been using for three years. I've never had any problem with the gears in either of them, but have been aware that they are small machines for light use. I like them a lot.

Pete

Oh, and I get my bearings from http://www.technobotsonline.com/ as they are local to me. They stock a useful range of components and are fast, helpful and keen on price.

Edited By Peter Hall on 16/04/2014 17:20:59

That's excellent. Thank you very much.

Pete

For the benefit of a novice, could someone take the trouble to explain why (and how) this was done?

This is an excellent thread and I'm planning on doing some of the mods to my machines. I've already fitted some carriage stops as seen on mikesworkshop. Thanks, Mike!

Pete

Goes out to buy a shed. Comes back with a lathe. You've only got yourself to blame, you know.

Pete