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Member postings for Dugson

Here is a list of all the postings Dugson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: HELP HELP HELP - Warco 1224 Gear Head Lathe
12/10/2009 05:39:03
You all may be interested in my experience with a 12/36 Tiawanese geared head lathe.
 
As received new it chattered badly but I persevered and after a few years had to replace the head bearings After ressambly the lathe cut badly tapered out of the chuck and I had to realign the headstock to correct the taper this process inproved the chatter markedly.
 
On examining the old bearing cups (tapered roller) I noticed uneven wear ie. wear in two diagonally opposite parts of the bearing track, the conclusion I reached was that the bearings had not been seated properly in the housing and upon installing the new ones, the resulting realignment moved the spindle and so caused a taper.
 
Incidently the correct way to align the headstock of a lathe of heavy construction is to check that the bed is not twisted and then  move the headstock not twist the bed. Most quality lathes have provision for this by way of adjusting screws or at least oversize mounting holes.
 
Bed twisting is only used if the head cannot be adjusted as on light lathes like Myford or Southbend
Thread: ER32 etc collets
05/09/2009 06:10:49
Tony,
I have bought several sets of ER collets from CTC tools Hong Kong they have been excellent quality and accuracy. worth a try.
 
Thread: DRO
15/08/2009 00:41:24
I can't help buying into this regarding DRO's on hobby lathes 
 
I ran a precision grinding business for 15 years where we regularly worked to tenths or microns. Although DRO's are fitted to cylindrical grinders, in my experience they are not much good for achieving final size as this is determined by the number of "spring passes" or wash out passes carried out; and this is determined by the condition of the grinding wheel when finishing; you dare not rely on the DRO with  these variables, so stop and measure is essential.
 
Finish grinding is usually the last process so the cost of going undersize is sometimes very high both in dollars and reputation.
 
All this is in support of David's comments about using the DRO for sizing because the same arguments apply to turning unless you own a very rigid modern lathe and even then you still must measure if size is important.
 
As far as metric/imperial goes a calculator does a fine job for me I would rather have an uncluttered lathe, a DRO on a Myford is pretty tight for room.
Thread: Choosing a lthe
07/08/2009 06:37:01
John
Try this link as an alternative to Myford you might find something of interest, you can ring and talk easily.  http://www.myford-lathes.com/index.htm
Thread: Milling on Myford
06/08/2009 05:11:47
As a general guide for home use and HSS cutters a surface speed of about 60 Feet / minute is a good start, that is for a 1/2" dia cutter = about 450 rpm.
Once you have the speed and the number of teeth in the cutter - say 4, the feed rate is calculated by multiplying the teeth per minute in this case 450 X 4 = 1800 by the cut per tooth, .002" is a good start so 1800 X .002 = 3.6 or about 3 1/2" per minute, this is .06"/second or around two seconds per turn of the cross slide handle. It's all a bit of a guess and with hand feeding can be adjusted as you go.
Have fun
Dugson
Thread: Geared Head Oil
06/08/2009 04:50:29
Light hydraulic oils are best because they do not froth up with the gear action.
Dugson
Thread: Hss or Carbide Tooling?
06/08/2009 03:39:00
Chris
I have used a diamond toolholder for years they are excellent and easy to sharpen look at their web site and the video
Dugson
05/08/2009 01:04:49
Carbide tooling is very usefull on small machines for machining hard materials eg. the skin on cast iron.
 
It is not possible to obtain the benefits of carbide tooling on small lathes because generally they don't have sufficient power to run at the speeds required for efficient cutting with carbide.
 
Most carbide bits don't have a sharp corner because carbide is very brittle and a sharp corner is therefore easy to break, tools are designed with minimal front clearance for the same reason.
 
For general machining in a home workshop on a small lathe HSS is hard to beat, but you will have to do a bit of study/trial and error, to learn how to sharpen tools made from it.
 
For a Myford Super Seven most of my work is done with HSS I have a few carbide tools which are rarely used, for a beginner take a look at the Diamond toolholder from Eccentric Engineering advertised in MEW it is very versatile, easy to sharpen and the toolbits are cheap. 
Thread: Phase Converter Which Type?
05/08/2009 00:44:59
You may find that there is a transformer in the machine which supplies the 110v from a 415v input, Sometimes these transformers have other voltage taps, it might be worth a look
Thread: Bridgeport miller
19/06/2009 07:15:58
Bob,
You could always make a two piece drawbar with a threaded joint about halfway up, or if you were really keen make one with a universal joint, it does not take much load in a Bridgeport and would be OK if high tensile pins are used in the joint hinges.
Thread: Tipped Tools
17/06/2009 07:13:20
Dave and anyone else interested,
Your trouble with finish may be due to the tip having too little front clearance.
I purchased a set of tipped tools in a wooden box (made in china I guess) and could not get them to cut properly. On careful investigation I discovered that the tool holders did not hold the tips at the correct angle, the result was that the tool rubbed a little on the cutting edge, hard to see but definitely a problem.
My solution was to re-grind the front of the tool, (holder and all), to provide extra clearance.
It is important with small lathes to present a sharp corner to the work this does not mean a sharp point, the point can be radiused, but the corner between the top and the front must be sharp.
It may be woth having a close look at this.
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