Member postings for HasBean

Thanks Niko. I thought it was just me but the NVR assy does seem to be buzzing a bit louder than usual now you mention it.

Paul

Thanks Gents,

Nothing has been changed/adjusted on the motor front, the tumbler gears are not in mesh and the countershaft and spindle have been lubricated as per usual.

Seems odd that the motor slows on axial as well as radial turning so maybe this points to the motor? It hasn't had a lot of use and only 17 years old.

Motor voltage? Hadn't thought of that, I'll check the output of the contactor from the switch box but I've never come across this before.

I'm not really sure just how free the spindle should be, I've seen it written that it should be 'free to turn' but also that it should be 'just able to be turned by hand', both cases with the countershaft belt loose of course, mine is pretty tight but not what you would call stiff.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

Gents,
It's been a while since I last posted but that's another story.
I haven't had a chance to use my lathe for some time (Super 7) but now under any sort of cut it stalls the motor. I was facing a chuck backplate when I noticed it slow and eventually stop. Same now turning or drilling from the tailstock. I checked that the belt wasn't slipping and sure enough the motor stops.
Everything seems ok so my suspicions are the spindle bearings or the motor (motor, countershaft and front spindle bearing don't feel overly hot) although I have a feeling in my water that it's something to do with the spindle.
Sadly my mate who would've known what to do passed away last year and I don't know of anyone else over here (Jersey) to have a look so before I bu**er anything up do the collective have any ideas/suggestions on what to check?

Paul

MEW No.47 by Peter Rawlinson

Paul

The second item is for centring in the mill. There was an article in MEW some years ago, might have been by Peter Rawlinson but really can't remember.

Paul

Seems to be the way of the forum these days

Personally I'm looking forward to seeing it.

In my view there's bu**er all else worth watching on the television these days.

Paul

Thanks gents but as I'm in Jersey the options are BOC or err BOC!

I know Air Products are available but only to business' it seems.

Following on slightly from the rusty wire thread, is it possible to use MIG wire for TIG welding?

As it was costing me well over £100 a year just to rent the gas bottle and then realising I hadn't used it for 4 years back the bottle went to BOC (my only choice as far as I'm aware).

Now having the urge to try TIG and having 5 Kg reels of 0.8mm MIG wire lying around is it of any use for TIG, or anything else for that matter? (Before I start coughing up £120 a year for argon!)

Paul

Agree with the above, excellent issue,

Well done Neil.

Paul

After finding one error in the chart for the HV6 I went through the lot. Seem to remember there were a good few cockups so do check first!

Paul

Thanks everyone, I'll check those out.

Blue Danube eh Michael? seems good to me. Was told to hum a tune in my head when weaving mma which worked (can't remember what though now)

Paul

Gents,

I've decided that of the welding process' TIG is going to be the most useful to me, unfortunately it's also one I've never done.
I've a couple of books on the subject but like MIG things didn't really click until I saw it in the flesh so to speak. I had a look on YouTube but the choice is overwhelming, so are there any videos out there that you could recommend?
I don't have a TIG welder but I do have a torch that can connect to my MMA inverter for scratch start and an adaptor that fits those piddly disposable argon bottles. I can't justify the cost of buying a TIG unit to experiment only to find that I'm so useless it becomes a very expensive doorstop!

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Paul

Can I ask what are the advantages of a carbide boring bar?

Paul

Now I'm also confused, local B&Q sell Turpentine, Turpentine Substitute and White Spirit.

I have made up some Angels Breath a few years ago, works fine on stainless.

Paul

I was always taught that centrifugal force doesn't actually exist, only centripetal force which is preventing the body from moving in a straight line which it is want to do.

Paul

Oh, and to try to keep on thread 

(not everyone's cup of tea though I guess...)

Edited By HasBean on 30/10/2015 11:33:34

I have used different holders but also swapped the inserts on the same holder. Speeds? Well I tend to use the lower spindle speeds but I do get a better finish all round on higher ones just that when the lathe sounds like a turbine it frightens me a bit

My theory is, although I'm happy to be proven wrong, is that the same chipbreaker design must be different when formed on inserts with different included angles, I really can't think of any other variable?

Paul

Hi Murray,

I usually use Mitsubishi cermets, grade NX2525. The CCMT boxes I have don't have a chipbreaker suffix but the DCMT ones do, FV, which is a finishing type. Under the magnifier they appear the same and are both sold as having the same chipbreaker by the supplier.I also tried some Walter and Korloy inserts of the same grades and chipbreaker type as marked on the box and appearance.

Must say I also noticed a different sound when cutting, seemed 'quieter' for want of a better word.

At the end of the day I know there is a difference between them but being a nosey bu**er I just wish I knew why!

Still, I've learned something and now have more options so can't be all bad!

Paul

Aha, well done that man, hadn't thought of that. I shall go and check!

Oh well, the DCMT holder has about 8mm more overhang than the CCMT holder, probably set it like that so I can use it closer to the tailstock I guess.

Edited By HasBean on 05/09/2015 17:26:26

Gents,
I know this thread is a tad old but thought it best to add to it rather than start a new one.

Now I don't get a lot of time these days in the workshop (back of the garage) what with work, kids etc so I relished the chance to have a play this afternoon (won't bore you with the details).

Whilst turning some black bar I was too heavy handed and chipped the insert, CCMT type. Being tight on time instead of replacing it I found another holder with a DCMT insert of the same type and used that.

Now I immediately noticed an improvement in the surface finish! The speed and feed was the same, same insert type, radius and chipbreaker, so what had changed?

I then went off at a tangent and dug out some of the various inserts I had that were effectively the same apart from that they were either CCMT or DCMT shapes.

Each time the DCMT inserts gave a better finish.
But Why?
The same radius, chipbreaker design according to the box (looks the same under a magnifier) etc. Even a small depth of cut to offset the entrance and clearance angles!

All I can think of is the chipbreaker design makes a difference because it's squeezed into a 55 deg angle instead of a 70 deg angle? I don't know, just grasping at straws here!

Any thoughts Gentlemen?

Paul