Member postings for David Haythornthwaite

Dear Peter,

I have a Reliance Drill Grinding Jig and it is great. I am not sure if it is no. 2 as the box is long gone. I have also sharpened drills considerably smaller than 1/4", but it looks exactly like the illustration of the no. 2 jig.

The trough is 15 mm from the centre of the V to the edge (up the inside side of the V) and the trough is 70 mm long. The trough spindle extends this to 125 mm.

I couldn't see how to attach a file to this post, but if you wish I could email a PDF to you of the instruction manual. It does not give dimensions unfortunately, but pictures the item and illustrates how to use the item very well.

David

"... the recent, almost ubiquitous use of "gender" instead of "sex", including on many official forms."

I used to write business software, and of course this involved the design of forms.

I originally used to have a field labelled "Sex" and I changed this to "Gender" after one of our female staff asked me if the box was a "Yes / No" question !!

I agree - MEW goes from strength to strength. Good content, good variety. Keep up the good work Neil.

Hi Jesse,

I used to work in a British clothing factory doing 80% export. As soon as Metric became prevalent here (25 years ago), I metricated all our patterns (On CAD) to be up to date and be in line with most of our cutomers.

ALL our export customers asked us to supply garments in the old Imperial sizes as they wished them to appear authentic "Old British". To this date I think that you could count the number of Metric orders that we have made on the fingers of one hand!

It isn't always the manufacturer that is at fault. Try making a camera tripod with a metric thread. All the cameras have a 1/4" Whitworth thread.

David

Thanks for that. Yes - I have no problem with 7BA as you say. Interesting about the umbrellas, I shall keep my eyes open.

Mugging little old ladies to measure their umbrellas with a micrometer seems a bit extreme. I am sure a hunt through the cupboard of SWMBO will turn up something !

Kind Regards

David

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.

I finished up turning lengths of silver steel down to 2.2mm diameter to cut into 8BA studs.

I used the rear tool post to hold a Phosphor Bronze bush round the rod, and set my topslide at right angles to the lathe bed (almost 90 deg - full right angles is impossible on a standard ML7 top slide.) The cutting tool (tangential) was adjusted by the top slide feed screw.

I attach a photo of my setup.

The finish was not as bad as it appears.

Thanks - David

Edited By David Haythornthwaite on 19/01/2015 19:32:13

Try The Tool Shop - Colyton Devon. They usually have massive stocks of back numbers and are most helpful on the phone. Shop recently up for sale though. See Adverts in ME or MEW

David

What a good Idea. I would not be able to get the support quite as close to the cutting point on my setup, but I shall investigate. Thanks

David

Thanks Bob,

An interesting way round the problem.

David

Hi Nobby

"I suppose the next problem will be threading the 8ba ?"

No problem with that. The ends of the studs will be threaded by holding the stud in an ER25 collet and using a die in a tailstock die holder. (yes they are long enough, - I think). If not, for the short ones, I shall thread them, one end, whilst they are on the parent material, cut off and screw them into a threaded mandrell in the chuck (or collet). For the tapping I have a home made pillar tool.

David

Thanks Jason, Norman and Maurice.

I think I shall make something along the lines of the photo Jason posted.

I have also wondered whether to have the rear toolpost (QC) carry the supporting bush, swivelling my topslide round 90 deg. so that it carries my tangential tool right up to the back of the bush. The bush would then be centralised to the lathe centre by the cross slide feed and the diameter i.e. the cut would be controlled by the top slide feed.

We shall see - but thanks everyone.

David

Thanks Neil,

It was most interesting to see that, I particularly liked the way it uses a V steady to stop the piece from both lifting and from pushing away whilst being adjustable for many diameters without having to make bushes.

I was thinking of making something to go in the toolpost, so you could use it for long lengths and I am now wondering about a tool in the top (compound) slide, therefore finely adjustable for diameter, and providing the support from the back toolpost. I like making tools equally to making models, and despite my current resolution to "get on with the steam engine", it looks like a tool project may be on the way.

Thanks for your help. Have a great Christmas and a Happy New Year. MEW is coming along just a treat. - well done.

Thanks again.

Kind Regards

David

I have to make some 8BA studs for a steam engine that I am making.

I see there has been discussion about 8BA studs on this forum back in October 2012 and a regular contributor called NJH showed a picture of a thin piece turning tool which carried a bush to support the turned rod next to the actual cutting tool.

I would like to know where to obtain such a tool - or even know the correct name for it. I seem to remember one being detailed in MEW many years ago, but cannot find it in the index.

Can anyone help? If NJH reads this I would be interested where he bought it from.

David H

I have used B&W DRO on both a mill and on my Myford ML7B.

On the mill it was good, and I used to transfer the DRO from lathe to Mill as I could not afford two DRO systems. I now have a Chinese DRO on my mill, but I still use the B&W DRO on my Myford lathe and I believe it is simply the best for a small lathe, where there is limited room - particularly on the cross slide. IT IS VERY GOOD.

I wrote an article in MEW 181 on various ways of fitting it to the Myford ML7. I would be happy to send a PDF of my article to anyone interested, or even to post it here, but only if the current editor agrees.

David Haythornthwaite

Try "The Tool Box" Colyton East Devon :-

**LINK**

They have massive stock of old ME mags. Give them a ring they are most helpful. I rang and told him what I was building - serialised in the 1960's. He found all 22 editions that carried the article.

I Recommend them highly. As for the shop - well - I could go there for my holidays.

David H

Chris,

Depending upon your lathe, there is a big advantage in making your lathe chuck fit onto your rotary table. That way you can turn a piece on the lathe and transfer the chuck - complete with turned work in situ - onto your rotary table to make squares and flats on it.

See my website to see what my fitting looks like :-

**LINK**

Kind Regards

David H

Looking at ME or MEW illustrates that some model engineers like to keep their machines in pristine condition and others do not care as long as they do the job. I am with you, I spend ages cleaning my machines down and lovingly care for them. However it takes me ages to make models compared to others who simply "get on with it". I will not use suds on my machines as it gets into slideways etc. causing rust on a machine used intermittently. I always use neat cutting oil. I am also lucky that I have the domestic boiler in my workshop to keep it dry.

Yes - the milling table would offend my workshop and I would spend ages de-rusting it, but then I like tools for tool's sake and I wouldn't be building models, would I? Vive la difference!!

David

Edited By David Haythornthwaite on 21/08/2013 09:25:58

Hi Graeme,

There is a page on my website which may be of interest re ball handle manufacture.

http://www.haythornthwaite.com/Ball%20Turning.htm

It isn't a blow by blow account, but it gives the gist of the process. The main thing is if you are doing a lot, batch them up and do each stage on them all. it saves lots of time. I use the Geo H Thomas method as you will see.

Best of luck,

David