Member postings for SverreE

There is a very good "AutoCad-like" program called Draftsight. The program is free, but you have to activate it every year (email etc.)

Another option is to go for a 3D program, I use DesignSpark Mechanical, and this can of course be used for 2D drawings. Free download here:

**LINK**

Regards Sverre

Hello;

Try DraftSight 2017, it is a free version of AutoCad, I have used it for several years. Another option is to go for full 3D, and I would recommend DesignSpark Mechanical - also completely free!

Regards Sverre

Hello;

Left hand on the saddle apron and right hand on the cross-slide or top slide...? That's how I use my Blomqvist lathe (a South Bend clone).

Sverre

Edited By SverreE on 08/03/2017 17:02:23

Some years ago I made 6-7 Rolling Pins (in Norway it is called a "Kjevle" for making flat cakes and pastries (pizza etc.) for all family members. I had some old aluminium tubing, and used ball bearings for easy rotation. It was completed with a hardwood stand. It is a pleasure to use, and only needs a simple cleaning with a moist cloth.

To my great pleasure, my wife likes to show the Rolling Pin to guests and I willingly shows them my workshop in the garage!

Merry Christmas from Sverre

Back in the old days with valves in the television sets, my colleague was repairing a faulty television set - with a hammer! He knocked at each valve, and suddenly smashed one. "Aha - here is a faulty valve!" So he put in a new valve......and the television set was ok!

Life was simpler in those days!

"It is better to have tools you don't need - than not to have the tools you need"

Sverre

A quick search on Ebay gave228 items for sale - if you are interested in buying!

Regards Sverre

Hello Rik;

Yes - I know! I just wanted to get a quick way of trying out a tangential toolholder. The big screw holds the toolbit firmly, but limits the diameter for facing to about 20 mm.

I'll have to finish the holder for grinding the toolbit, thought I would make a jig for grinding it on my new Worksharp 3000 (mostly for sharpening woodworking tools), but will give a very nice sharp edge.

Sverre

I just finished my version of tangential toolholder for my homemade QCTP:

And here it is on the QCTP:

And it woorks beautifully!

Sverre

And today I finished the first actual toolholder, a tangential one:

And here it is on the QCTP:

And it works beutifully - tried soft aluminium, then proceeded to steel and then stainless steel - very nice surface finish!

Sverre

Not today, but yesterday, I finished (after several years of "planning"....) my QCTP! It is very simple to operate - just one handle to lock it.

Here is the first toolholder I made for a DTI:

I only need to add a screw for height-adjustment. By the way, I have an old Blomquist lathe, which is a South Bend clone produced in Sweden in 1960.

Sverre

I have used AutoCad LT (2D) for several years, and Alibre PE (Personal Edition) for a couple of years. Alibre is a full parametric 3D program with "all" functions, but has a relatively high user threshold. The PE version has - as far as I know - no interface to CAM programs.

But - have a look at "Designspark Mechanical" - it is a FREE version supplied by RS and Allied (Electronic parts), and this program is a very good full 3D design program! Ok - no CAM interface, but an excellent way to design in 3D, put parts together and see if they fit. Designspark Mechanical is a downsized version of "Spaceclaim" - used by professionals like Boing etc. There are lots of documentation, tutorials etc. freely available!

Just follow this link: **LINK**

You got nothing to loose! Regards Sverre

A bought a Drill Doctor 750X directly from the US, cheaper, but have to use a 230/110V transformer, the US suppliers only had 110V versions.

I have read about people who have problems using it, but there are nice instructional videos on Youtube. I find it very simple to use - I have perfect drills all the time!

Sverre

Hello David;

I haven't read all answers above ....but I have a legal Alibre 2011 PE (Personal Edition). Maybe I can help you read your files?

Regards Sverre

Geoff - MEW 200? The last issue out now is MEW 197....

Sverre

Professional machine worklights tends to be very expensive for the home workshop. Now, LED-lamps can be a very good alternative, like this lamp I found at Ikea in Norway. It is called "Jansjo" and costs £10 in the UK.

The advantage with this lamp - apart from the low cost, is that it is a a low-voltage lamp (6 V, 3W I think, safe voltage for swarf) and its long flexible gooseneck.

Here is how I mounted it on my milling machine:

And here a view of how strong the light is with two of these lamps:

I think I will fit my lathe with a lamp or two!

Regards Sverre

Hello; I posted this recently in another thread, but I think you should have a look at links below - this QCTP is really simple!

I bought plans to make a QCTP which is available as a kit (or only drawings) from METAL LATHE in USA, the MLA-23. This seems to be a very nice design, simple and stable. See the following link:

**LINK**

The design is also described in the "Home Shop Machinist" May/June 2006, and also a brilliant description in the "Practical Machinist" forum:

**LINK**

Since I live in Norway, I ordered only the drawings from METAL LATHE, due to the cost of shipping the heavy hardware from USA.

Regards Sverre

I bought plans to make a QCTP which is available as a kit (or only drawings) from METAL LATHE in USA, the MLA-23. This seems to be a very nice design, simple and stable. See the following link:

**LINK**

The design is also described in the "Home Shop Machinist" May/June 2006, and also a brilliant description in the "Practical Machinist" forum:

**LINK**

Since I live in Norway, I ordered only the drawings from METAL LATHE, due to the cost of shipping the heavy hardware from USA.

Regards Sverre

I have a XJ9520 mill (bought from Amadeal) which - I think - is quite similar to the Warco WM14. I have plans to modify this machine to belt drive - for noise reduction and because a lot of people have had problems with breaking the plastic gear in the gearhead. My gears are still OK, but many say that to use a flycutter is a sure way to break the plastic gear(s). Different make of these machines have different types of gears, some have plastic, and some have brass or steel.

Anyone who have had problems with gearbreaking? Have a quick search on the internet, and you will see that some say that a flycutter should never be used on the asian mini-mills...

Regards Sverre