Here is a list of all the postings ChrisH has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means? |
02/12/2009 10:42:42 |
Thank you to all who have offered advice on saws.
It seems clear that a bandsaw is what I need, a bench one I think, for smallest space.
The Warco one at £142 looks very good, so does the Axminster one but it is another £80 or so at £225, BUT, the Axminster does 4"x6" against 3.5"x5" for the Warco, and looks as if it may be a little more substantial.
Anyone with experience of either, and is the slightly larger capacity of the Axminster worth the extra eighty quid do you think?
ChrisH |
Thread: HELP! Cutting Metal - But By What Means? |
30/11/2009 23:50:22 |
Sorry - ignore this one, I've inserted it twice, damned tricky this computer stuff.
David Clark - could you bin this thread for me please in favour of the second one - many thanks
ChrisH Edited By ChrisH on 01/12/2009 00:02:13 |
Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means? |
30/11/2009 23:47:49 |
I am going to have to obtain some means of mechanically cutting metal but by what means I am undecided. I would appreciate any views or opinions on what others have used and the pros & cons of their choice. Times are hard (!) so a low cost option for me is a major factor, as is the space it will take up as I have but a small workshop, and if it has to be lifted onto a workbench then weight is also a factor (I'm not getting younger!).
So far I have considered:
Hacksaw. Using a hand hacksaw is hard work and for me it's a no-no. A power hacksaw is available, Silverline do a power hacksaw, which looks like a hand one but with a motor for £50. Sieg do one which looks similar but has a vice built-in for £330 - some difference! But are either any good - both use 'normal' hacksaw blades? The Silverline would have to be used with a vice on the bench, ones with a built in vice could cut outdoors if portable enough. Of course there are more 'professional' ones, but it's cost and space again. What else is there?
Bandsaw. There are a number of bandsaws on the market, all seem to take up a fair amount of room and start from about £220-ish so not that cheap. The bench one I saw seems heavy. The Clark at £220 offers horizontal and vertical cutting, but is the vertical mode good and useful, or just a bit more than just a gimmick? A bandsaw be used outside, keeping the workshop clean, but needs a fair bit of space to be stowed it would seem. How do others cope with it in a small workshop?
ChopSaws. I know these are good, but not too cheap - the Makita seems the cheapest at £190-ish - but I know chopsaws are also very noisy. Could also be used outside but the noise could/would upset the neighbours.
So all you old hands at this hobby, what do you use and why and what would you recommend?
ChrisH
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Thread: HELP! Cutting Metal - But By What Means? |
30/11/2009 23:44:31 |
I am going to have to obtain some means of mechanically cutting metal but by what means I am undecided. I would appreciate any views or opinions on what others have used and the pros & cons of their choice. Times are hard (!) so a low cost option for me is a major factor, as is the space it will take up as I have but a small workshop, and if it has to be lifted onto a workbench then weight is also a factor (I'm not getting younger!).
So far I have considered:
Hacksaw. Using a hand hacksaw is hard work and for me it's a no-no. A power hacksaw is available, Silverline do a power hacksaw, which looks like a hand one but with a motor for £50. Sieg do one which looks similar but has a vice built-in for £330 - some difference! But are either any good - both use 'normal' hacksaw blades? The Silverline would have to be used with a vice on the bench, ones with a built in vice could cut outdoors if portable enough. Of course there are more 'professional' ones, but it's cost and space again. What else is there?
Bandsaw. There are a number of bandsaws on the market, all seem to take up a fair amount of room and start from about £220-ish so not that cheap. The bench one I saw seems heavy. The Clark at £220 offers horizontal and vertical cutting, but is the vertical mode good and useful, or just a bit more than just a gimmick? A bandsaw be used outside, keeping the workshop clean, but needs a fair bit of space to be stowed it would seem. How do others cope with it in a small workshop?
ChopSaws. I know these are good, but not too cheap - the Makita seems the cheapest at £190-ish - but I know chopsaws are also very noisy. Could also be used outside but the noise could/would upset the neighbours.
So all you old hands at this hobby, what do you use and why and what would you recommend?
ChrisH
|
Thread: Safety |
30/11/2009 20:17:34 |
Plus, we didn't waste loads of food because some theoretical "use by" or "best by" date had been exceeded - as the theory didn't exist and the brain washing hadn't begun!
If the food was 'off' we binned it, if it wasn't we'd eat it. We didn't bin much food, despite lack of refrigeration and lack of preservatives in food, because as there wasn't much of it and we were always hungry because we were so active playing outside, we used to eat it; and our Mothers cooked tasty meals with the left-overs.
Cooking meals, how does that work then you can hear modern kids (and adults too) asking....................................
ChrisH |
21/11/2009 21:03:29 |
OK Boss
- but I must be doing something wrong - where are the photos of the Iraqi tanks brewing up?
ChrisH |
20/11/2009 14:26:30 |
By and large I have enjoyed reading through the posts in this threads even though some seem to be a bit on the acrimonious side - saucers of milk to all concerned I'd say - and found the actual safety information re working various materials interesting and informative.
However the effect today when I had to purchase a couple of 2mm dia drills from my local hardware store and on the way home found they were HSS Titanium was to immediately think ' gosh, I do hope it doesn't burst into flames when I use them, tricky stuff this titanium, read all about it'.
And before anyone jumps in to a reply - ONLY JOKING !
ChrisH Edited By ChrisH on 20/11/2009 14:27:00 |
18/11/2009 10:04:57 |
Thank you for that David.
ChrisH |
17/11/2009 20:15:23 |
"Can I suggest that the administrators give this (materials and their possible evils! CH) a category of it's own that contains threads rather than being a thread - otherwise it's visibility is only as good as when the last item was posted." - from Paul Hanson.
Paul, I'm with you on this - a damn good idea, would be very illuminating, informative and advisory.
ChrisH |
Thread: Three phase from a Single Phase Supply |
16/11/2009 10:28:04 |
Right, Gotcha, clear as a mountain stream now!
ChrisH |
Thread: Pourable Machinery Chocks |
16/11/2009 10:23:55 |
Thanks for the replies. That's the beauty of this forum, other people's thoughts take you in a direction you'd not considered.
I've used self-levelling compound and that would be strong enough to support the weight, and I guess a pure cement/water mix would too, although in steel framed buildings that I have been involved with the steel frames were levelled up on adjustable anchor bolts and and then the underside just filled with mortar.
I have some cement at home so I will make up a little batch and see how hard it sets, pretty hard I guess judging from old part-used bags gone hard years ago.
My lathe weighs a ton and just sits on a floor - there are no holes to bolt it down with anchor bolts, although anchor bolts and brackets could be arranged - but I don't think they would be of much use, the lathe seems so heavy it wouldn't be going anywhere in use I'm sure.
ChrisH |
Thread: Three phase from a Single Phase Supply |
16/11/2009 10:13:50 |
Yes Niloch, it certainly does help, thanks for the direction to look.
However, there always has to be a 'but' or a 'however', although it confirms my thought that the motor has to be rewired from star to delta and I not sure why it has to be wired. If you, or anyone else, has an answer to this it would be most appreciated.
ChrisH |
Thread: Search Fields |
15/11/2009 20:00:58 |
I am sure this must be on the webmasters' wish list - if it's not then please could it be added? I for one would find it most useful!
When looking for information on a forum one can input a 'search word' on a particular forum topic - or in 'all topics' - BUT the search word can only look in the "Thread Title' of a particular topic. You may be looking for a particular piece of information which you know is somewhere, you've possibly read it in the past and now want to return to it, but cannot find it because what you want is not in the thread title but in the text. Somewhere!
If the search word could also look in the 'Body of a thread text" as an alternative to the 'Thread title', then the search become far more inclusive and searching. The drop down selection 'button' is there, but the option isn't at the moment. Perhaps it is in hand and I am being too previous and impatient!
I do realise this isn't probably as easy as it sounds to organise, but it would be jolly good if it were possible.
ChrisH
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Thread: Machinery Paint |
15/11/2009 19:24:20 |
What do people use for painting machinery?
If you go to any of the DIY stores there seem to be endless choices for painting wood and plaster, but not a lot for painting metal other than radiator paint or Hammerite.
Now, good as Hammerite is I do not want to paint my machinery with it if possible added to which they don't do the colours I want - probably a grey and a cream but I am open to suggestion. Colours from my past life at sea intrude on my thoughts!
So, what do I use and where can I get it (without spending a fortune!)?
Chris |
Thread: Three phase from a Single Phase Supply |
15/11/2009 19:16:46 |
Daft question - so please don't shout too loud, but if a three phase motor is being fed from a single phase supply via an inverter will the motor give the same power as if it were still on a three phase supply or are there losses in the conversion that will reduce the power?
Also, I have read somewhere that when using a single to three phase inverter the motor is better connected in delta than in star. Is this right?
Any comments on this please?
Chris
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Thread: Pourable Machinery Chocks |
15/11/2009 19:11:35 |
Having got my lathe at last into the workshop I now have to level it. The workshop floor is fairly smooth, but it does have a slight slope both longitudinally and transversely.
There are no points on the bedplate where I could fix adjustable feet to level up the machine. So I either make up some steel chocks at considerable effort and time, or I could level the lathe up on say wedges and then pour in a pourable chocking compound, which will be an epoxy of some sort. Now there are these products available but I guess they are an arm and a leg as they are designed for marine engines and the like, i.e., professional applications.
Has anyone had any experience of pourable chocks and where an 'inexpensive' product could be obtained, and was it any good?
My current thoughts are on the line of mixing up some SP or West epoxy resin and adding a load of granite dust/mini-chippings to give it the strength, as being a relatively cheap solution. Any thoughts on this?
Chris
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Thread: Broken Tap Extractor |
16/10/2009 12:22:15 |
I came across a post the other day of someone who was good at breaking taps and having problems extracting them. Been there too!
I can't remember who he was or on what thread, but this is just to say that there are broken tap extractors on the market - Cromwell Tools do some, look at www.cromwelltools.co.uk - but whether they go small enough for this members problems I don't know. It will be food for thought nevertheless, if a small enough one is not available, in which direction to go to fabricate a suitable bespoke tool.
ChrisH |
Thread: Milling collet arbor jammed in milling machine |
14/10/2009 14:38:40 |
Hi Peter,
Not picked up your reply until now, so sorry for the delay in response. Yes I do understand what you are describing but I am afraid it is not that easy.
The wind generator sits on a pole with a bearing at the tp which allows the generator to turn and face the wind. The top bearing sits at the top of a boss cast into the generator housing and on a short stub shaft . At the bottom of the boss is the bottom bearing which in reality is a tuffnull or something similar plain bearing - more of a bush really. This bearing has a completely flat plain surface, is a tight-ish fit on the stub shaft, and is sealed by a rubber O ring sitting in a groove in the bush on the OD and on the ID by a easily removable seal on the shaft. On the inside of the bearing a circlip sits in the stub shaft to stop the bush sliding up. To remove the stub shaft and lower bearing all you are supposed to do is give the shaft a good tug and out it all pops! This it is refusing to do, the problem is the O ring is seizing up somehow, one can shift the whole lot up a bit but it then jams. Haven't had time to give it a very good dose of looking at as I am tied up elsewhere but it's on the list and will come in the end. I may have to fabricate a special puller to attach to the stub shaft and push off against the bearing boss.
Regards, Chris |
08/10/2009 21:57:08 |
Hi
Have read this thread with interest having been in similar situations in the past, and am now - have a push-in bearing sitting around a stub shaft on a wind generator which should pull out easily and is stuck solid as a rock with no easy way to to mount a puller without damaging something. Ho humm, it will come in the end, just not sorted yet. Have enjoyed the interchange of dialogue though, most amusing to an onlooker. Never ever take life and comments in this sort of context from others seriously is my thought for the day
Now, I am the Chris(H) to which you refer Meyrick, as I live not a million miles from Yeovil and have used Premier Power Products on the Houndstone Trading Estate quite recently, admittedly for bearings on a trailer resident in France, quite mundane, was very impressed by their service and the knowledge not from the usual typecast more, in fact very, mature male who had been in the business since time began but by a young pretty blond from the office, of all places, who knew exactly what I was talking about from the off, and where to find them in the stores. I will definitely be using them again and would recommend them to anyone in the area though I agree, from the Smoke it would be a bit of a hike, especially on a day like yesterday (wall to wall heavy rain).
Chris |
Thread: Boiler regulations update |
13/09/2009 18:21:14 |
Hi,
Now - common sense! That's the problem these days, they don't teach common sense any more, as you say it's all risk assessment. The stupid thing is that risk assessment can't stop an accident happening and neither is the risk assessor guilty when an accident does happens - it just means something was not thought of in the original risk assessment.
Part of the problem is the with H&S culture in the UK. We assume that if someone can put their hand in a machine and get it chopped off then we assume everybody will make every effort imaginable to put their hand in, so we overguard the machine to prevent that happening. In Europe they tell the staff "put your hand in there and it will be chopped off" and then credit them with the common sense not to do it - they still have common sense there, it's not all bad in the EU.
Now with a boiler, provided the boiler was properly constructed to comply with design standards and calculations, like thickness of boiler plate and tubes to withstand the design pressure for example, and the methods of joining the component parts was carried out properly and correctly, and the correct materials were used, then I agree that a hydraulic test followed by a working examination under steam should be sufficient. The proof of the pudding is in the eating!
A proper industrial boiler always did have a degree of traceability in that the boiler inspector would check the boiler plate used against the steel suppliers analysis report and stamp it with the inspection companys stamp as part of the construction process.
This is surely over the top for model boilers which are I believe mostly constructed by copper plate, obtainable from reputable suppliers. Traceability like everything is also vulnerable to possible abuse or 'tampering' and has it's limitations and therefore it's usefulness - a bit like traceability in a restaurant - "where did that fish come from" - "oh, the sea", well that's jolly useful to know.
The fact remains, for a boiler, a hydraulic test followed by a working test under steam has got to be the ultimate examination of successful and correct construction.
Oh, and I do 'Grumpy Old Man' very well, so SWMBO tells me! Must be my age......
ChrisH
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