Member postings for ChrisH

Speedy - I can see the chain but where are the balls?

I like I like it, very nice, you're inspiring me!!

Chris

Thanks to all who have commented, and to Neil for saying which copy of MEW I need to look at.

However, I have looked more closely at the problem and have concluded that what is really required is to bite the bullet and get her into a body shop for a proper welded repair with the affected area cut-out and replaced ASAP.  What appeared as a wee rust spot came to reveal on scraping back a cunning repair that has lasted at least a few years but is now wanting fixing properly. It has been previously filled and painted but now the rust is blowing the filler off. If I do anything there it will be a very short term cop out to try and ensure further damage is minimumised before a proper job Is done. By the way Phil, the car is a Eunos MX5, Mk1 from 1996 and the area is in way of the outside of the nearside sill at the rear, immediately before the wheel arch.

As the car is well loved and I want to keep her for a long time it will pay me to get her sorted sooner rather than later, so a search for a good but reasonable body shop local to me is on! The MX5 is not particularly quick comparative to modern cars, but just great fun to drive, I always have an ear to ear smile when driving her so she is worth spending money on. Now, where do I find some stash of money......?

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 15/02/2015 21:59:15

I am sure, well as far as I can be these days, the little grey cells being as they are now, that there was an article on Rust Treatment in MEW a while back, but I am blowed if I can recall when. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

Had the digital issues section had a search function I wouldn't need to ask, but I guess adding a search function there would involve a fair bit of software writing/updating at a not inconsiderable cost!

My end-of-life crisis car has developed a small rust patch which needs treating, hence the query.

Chris

Yes ....... but bet they are HOT dark damp corners, nothing in the post said anything about cool corners.

The French do seem to have a thing about speedo's - found this in Brittany too. Think it's something to do with the short and curlies. Not my problem either, not bald but way overweight, but likewise can't see myself so no worrys.

Chris

Jason, be much obliged if you have anything for a 40cc, but perhaps the Nemett one may be OK if it's for 15cc, the 3 cyls will not be all sucking at once, continuously maybe sucking on the carb instead of intermittently, makes a difference that.  Are there drawings available for the Nemett carb?

Rod, have downloaded pdf - many thanks.

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 11/02/2015 21:39:02

Edited By ChrisH on 11/02/2015 21:39:24

Even so............. got my sanity to think about, that idea is not doing my thinking any good, therefore sanity not good either......

Chris

Yuk!

Bore and stroke is 24mm x 30mm - and yes, liquid fuel not propane, am going to run on glowplugs! So fuel/oil mix will be sucked via crankcase.

Pic looks good, what is carb is it?

Chris

Hi, I am building/completing a 3 cyl. radial engine for which I need to make a model engine carburettor, all I need is a design!

Anyone out there know where I can find designs for carburettors for model engines? Would rather build my own than buy in a ready-made.

Chris

40C? That's 104 degF in real money. In most ships engine rooms I sailed in that was quite a cool engineroom temp, but we didn't bodge stuff like wot Mr. Stevenson does every day, far too technical, just kept the job running was the game. How can he work like that in that temp on technical stuff - us lot would be constantly leaking everywhere.

Chris

I'd be straight on the phone to subscriptions asking just what on earth was going on, who cancelled it, why did you take an instruction from anyone but me, etc etc

No kettle, no tea pot, no toaster, no cosy chair , no beer fridge - what's going on?

Chris

Hi Paul and Tony,

I have just fitted these - got them for Christmas! The bars were a devil to fit to my 'Economy' mill table, to get in a safe place and then protect against swarf and coolant/cutting fluid; what I did worked OK and is fine, but I am not totally happy with it as I am sure I could have done better, as always! It all worked very well initially and I was extremely pleased with it - not very sophisticated but much cheaper than units that are (more sophisticated) and did what I wanted it for. Was running all via the mains transformer, not batteries.

But, have had problems with the LCD Display, the X axis bar is always very slow to start, X axis readout on the Display going to zero when the mill is switched off, and the LCD Display also occasionally switching off when the mill was switched off. Have had excellent telephone help from Ian at Arc, who said they knew of the Display problems and was caused by static from the mill so the bars had to be electrically isolated. Did that and the Display switching off stopped, but the X axis going to zero continued. Then the Y axis reading on the Display started jumping about, followed by the X axis readout. The bars worked fine when removed from the mill and tested on the bench under battery power. Another call to Ian resulted in the Display being sent back to Arc for testing - am awaiting results back so this is where we're up to right now.

I have to say I've bought not a lot of stuff from Arc over the past couple of years but what I have has been just as described and of good quality and their customer supports has been excellent whenever I have had a query or problem, only had one problem before this one and it was sorted very quickly. I think they are an excellent company to deal with (so far - awaiting Display results remember!) - no connection other than satisfied customer etc etc!

Was amused when I posted the Display back, the lady at the post office counter asked what was in the parcel "for security" - I said "an LCD Display", she smiled and thanked me and I thought 'she hasn't a clue what I was saying, it could have been anything!'

Chris

Geoff - I believe the sliding sleeve is your problem as there is one one view of it shown. The sliding sleeve I think will be in two halves bolted together and have a bigger outer centre section with a circular slot in the middle to accept the pin that goes through sliding shaft and outer sleeve shaft. The pin through the shafts obviously would then rotate with the shafts, but the shafts would only have one small hole through them to accommodate the pin. Does this make sense, what I have wrote as Little Ern would have said?

Chris - suffering with a cold and counting the minutes to beer 'o clock (7 pm).

I have a Warco Economy Mill/Drill. Being still in "learning" mode for milling I don't take huge cuts at the best of times, and I do have backlash in both the X and Y direction. It's not as much as 16 thou, I think, but don't know quite what it is, I just work round it.

Although I very rarely do climb milling I have done some - a very limited amount - with no problems on mild steel, BUT, I have only ever done so with light - just a few thou - 'finishing' cuts, I would never climb mill with any more than a few thou and see no reason why I should want to do so, conventional milling works just fine!

Chris

Gosh - raw casting to completed brake disc in a couple of minutes, where's the fun in that?

Or the agonising heartaches wondering "how do I do this bit" moments followed by a cup of tea and a long ponder, for that matter!

Chris

"Makes a lot more sense than the stupid plastic guards that offer zero protection and maximum inconvenience fitted to much kit."

Semi agreed! Semi in that a spring on the chuck key would drive me mad and I would soon remove it, and semi in that the stupid plastic guards do offer zero protection and maximum inconvenience. All the plastic guard seems to do for me is offer a perception of protection, a bit like fitting seat belts to an old (very old now) Morris Minor that was never designed to have them; you think you are safe wearing that seat belt but are you?

The machine being in one's own workshop, with only yourself to worry about, one can always remove said stupid plastic guards!

My lathe, built back in the 1960's/early 70's when people still employed common sense, has no stupid plastic guard over the chuck, or interlock fitted to prevent me opening the cover over the headstock gears and belt drive with the machine running for that matter. I like it that way - wonder how we managed to survive all these years?!

Sorry, this seems a bit off topic, will stop now.

Just for the record, I'm with the "make the key myself" brigade, either using mild steel or a HT bolt, would serve well for quite some time if made properly. When it was no longer good, I'd make another, move on and not think about it anymore.

Chris.

Paul, both products look interesting but looks as though they are applied to the outside of a roof. Not sure how they would work on the underside.

Ian, the £34/month is rent, not what I have spent in finding a solution.  The car cover cost about £70 and is excellent!

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 19/01/2015 10:47:22

Mechman and Boiler Bri - like very much both photos, both very nice pieces of work.

Going back to spare wheels for a moment, bought a Dacia Duster last year which was supplied with a tin of goo as standard. Didn't fancy relying on that especially when on trips aboard, could see major problems trying to get sorted if I had a puncture abroad, so had a spare wheel fitted which required a cage thing underneath to hold it as there was no 'spare wheel well' in the boot. I see the new Dusters now do have a spare wheel well in the boot - wonder if that is a result of customer feedback/complaints?

For the record, I have had at least three punctures that trashed the side wall and required a tyre replacement. The goo would've been useless, wouldn't even have tried it, thank goodness I had a proper spare wheel at the time.

Our local garage, which is a rarity, cannot praise it highly enough, always turns out good work at value for money prices, are adamant in their view to avoid the goo like the plague and carry a 'proper' spare wheel! That's good enough for me

Chris