Member postings for JasonB

If you want to hole round bar vertically just put a Vee block against the fixed jaw and let the moving jaw find it's own position against the work piece

I would face off one end while in the 3 or 4 jaw and put in a ctr hole. With tailstock support cut the fins while you have plenty to grip on.

Then reverse in the chuck, rough face, ctr drill and with tailstock support form the flange and waist above it.

Finally remove tailstock, drill then bore to finished size and then take the last skim cut off the underside of the flange to bring ot to final length and ensure it is at right angles to bore.

I'm assuming the flanges are left with flat edges not rounded over.

I'll match that and raise you one, all T8

New URL (certainly at the moment) so passwords remembered for this site may not automatically be inserted when you first try to log in. That is why it is important to check what you are using.

There is a "lost your password" that can be clicked but would be easier to use your existing rather than be thrown straight into having to change it.

BTW at the moment we are getting a lot of log in failures on the first attempt and often needs 2 or 3 tries. Hopefully the backroom boffins will get this sorted before going live

Edited By JasonB on 01/09/2023 09:42:31

PLEASE DO NOT DELETE YOUR ALBUMS OR IMAGES WITHIN

As it will muck up all the thread where you have inserted an album image. The system will carry them over into the threads and posts if they are left there . It is just that they will no longer be in an album as the images are handled differently on the new system

Edited By JasonB on 01/09/2023 10:03:16

No, Mods get a couple of those things but not in general replies and even then they don't all work anyway.

At the moment I feel like it's more a case of stepping back in time

Edited By JasonB on 01/09/2023 08:46:48

Just a reminder to please make sure you know

• What e-mail address you are using on this forum
• What your username is on this forum
• What your password is on this forum.

Knowing these should make it easier to log in to the new forum. Events last night and still ongoing this morning show that is can get complicated if you don't now these things and it is currently harder for the Mods to look up details that they need. I won't say which Moderator could not log in as I don't want to embarrass her.

Related to that as soon as you change anything in your profile you are likely going to be told your password is too weak and need to change it. I will ask to see if this can be altered

And me

Vic, you can make a simple holder for small HSS bits from a bit of 12mm dia bar cross drilled for the tool and tapped up the end for a grub screw to hold it. OK for through holes and saves having to grind 12mm HSS blanks and worry about clearance. Use old Ctr drills etc as the toolbits

Mortons paper or digital back issues

Edited By JasonB on 31/08/2023 11:36:05

I bought a Soba about 15yrs ago from Chronos and it's fine and the one I usually reach for. Had the ARC one since I did the Milling for beginners Series and can't tell the difference, tend to keep this with the R8 arbor on it for occasional use on the SX2.7 though arbors are interchangable.

The carbide supplied really only needs a touch up with a diamond slip unless you want to start modifying the shapes for things like external work. I almost always use an insert bar in mine, Set of three Glanze ones via Chronos.

One other thing to bear in mind is that 2" heads tend to take 1/2" tooling and the 50mm ones 12mm or 1/2" depending on source so think ahead of what you might want to use with it.

I suspect the Axi one is actually 2" as it takes 1/2" tools and has imperial scale

Edited By JasonB on 31/08/2023 11:06:22

This will ease your frustration go to another supplier that sells the 50mm heads with a choice of Arbors to suit your machine. Bonus is it will also save you some money

Not colour coded when they are just bent metal like an Allen key

Same as Mike

Thanks, All.

Now dealt with. They may show for a while but nothing there if you click them

Does not astonish me, they cut like conventional tools just the jig and way the tool is held makes sharpening simple

How would you face without leaving a pip if tip were above ctr?

Edited By JasonB on 30/08/2023 09:45:14

My views differ, for a beginner who has never ground HSS or even owns a grinder going for in this case a CCGT insert which is known to have good geometry for non ferrous metal totally eliminates the cutting tool from the equation so the problem lies elsewhere if it does not work.

David, try these three videos, There has been an update of the Fusion screen since then but basically the same. Same guy has a beginners series for their CAD you will never need to write G-code again.

F360 is not the best if you are going to be trying to draw in 2D but model the part in 3D and the CAM works from that

What Proxxon is the conversion based on?

I wonder if the machine is upto handling anything much bigger than I assume the 1/8" or 3mm max collet size that the smaller ones tend to come with. Like the small CNC gantry routers they are better run at high spindle speeds with small cutters often single flute and don't have the grunt for say a 6mm 3 flute milling cutter. Even drilling can be a problem and you may be better off using the mill to bore (helical cut) any larger holes using the small cutters.

I hope your hearing has also failed as having one of those motors screaming away at 20K rpm for a few hours is not fun

As Baz says Fusion360 is a good bet and what I use for CAM, for my Mach3 machine and it will do the CAD without problem.