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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill
20/05/2010 09:10:25
If you do want to explore this route then the tool holders in the shereline video would be a simpler way to go. You would really only need one tool to be able to face and turn a simple shape. and an inverted drill chuck or collet fixture for drill bits, better to keep the work in the mill for concentricity. Or maybe make something up like a capstan head.
 
What these videos don't show is the time it takes to set up this tooling as each cutter will have to have its co-ordinates set exactly. Does your mill have any form of digital scales or a proper DRO? if not its going to take a long time to set up each time you want to turn something and you will have to record the handwheel positions, which will likely be lost as soon as you revert to milling. If you had a DRO it would be possible to leave one of these tooling clusters at one end of the mill table so that you could reasonably easily go from milling to turning/drilling
 
It also depends on what you call occasional turning, is that once a month or once a week?
 
J
19/05/2010 21:25:32
Well with the addition of CNC it may be worth doing but to set that all up manually would not be so easy
 
 

Edited By JasonB on 19/05/2010 21:34:24

19/05/2010 20:57:13
Thats the point I was trying to make terry it would take forever to try and set up 100%. Even with a DRO and decent edgefinder its unlikely to be a good as a lathe and certainly not faster.
 
You will also be limited to the length of the workpiece as there is no tailstock support or the drawbar will get in the way.
 
I know I would rather mill in the lathe than turn on the mill, the Minnie in my avitar was all done on the lathe but now having a mill I would never go back.
 
I would like to see those videos as well, just because you have seen it on you-tube does not make it right
 
J
19/05/2010 15:41:53
If the head tilts 90deg then turn it on its side so the axis is parallel to the mills table. You can make a simple toolpost from a block of steel that bolts to the table, you can then use the x & y axis of the mill like a cross & top slide.
 
Not so easy when it comes to drilling the end of the work, probably have to resort to removing it from the collet, setting up true in the machine vice, clocking the centre and then drilling.
 
Think I would be looking for a cheap mini lathe very soon.
 
J

Edited By JasonB on 19/05/2010 15:43:21

Thread: Myford dividing head
19/05/2010 12:37:27
I think the Myford head has a 60:1 ratio
 
So 360 divided by 290 = 1.2414deg per tooth
 
1 turn = 360 div 60 = 6deg
 
therefore 6 divided by 1.2414 = 4.833
 
1 div 4.833 = 0.2069
 
And 6 holes on a 29 plate also = 0.2069.
 
7 holes between the fingers (6 plus the plunger)
 
Please test it first, I may be wrong as I'm used to a 90:1
 
Jason
 
 

Edited By JasonB on 19/05/2010 12:39:38

Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill
19/05/2010 11:47:06
Are you talking about rotating the work against a cutting tool, if so a lathe would really be the better option. I suppose small dia work held in a collet could be rotated against a lathe tool held in the machine vice but not ideal.
 
If you are working on parts that are too large to turn in your lathe then they are best fixed to the largest rotary table you can obtain and the work rotated against a milling cutter.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 19/05/2010 11:48:48

Thread: securing a facing cutter on an arbour
18/05/2010 11:20:22
Does it not have a keyway along the top face, this can engage on the drive tabs on the end of your spindle nose, looks like most of their cutters have this keyway. Or the flange on the arbour should have some form of drive pins likethese or if its MT 3 then the pins need to extend to engage on the spindle like these
 
Edit , reading it again you do have the large top keyway and an MT taper. I would drill & ream the arbour flange for a couple of dowel pins, these can be retained with grub screws from the side of the flange bearing onto flats on the pins. This can be done with the arbour assembled and will transfer the rotational forces from the cutter to the spindle with no risk or turning the MT Taper under load
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 18/05/2010 11:24:54

Edited By JasonB on 18/05/2010 11:26:42

Edited By JasonB on 18/05/2010 11:32:19

Thread: Steeering Worm & universal joints
17/05/2010 17:04:27
HPC should have suitable worm & wheel may need boring or bushing to 1/4" bore or the shaft turning down
 
32DP would give about the right OD
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 17/05/2010 17:06:49

Thread: Bodmer’s Sliding Cylinder Engine
17/05/2010 14:23:29
Just put the web page into a translator like Babblefish, it comes out quite well but a few of the technical terms can be a bit amusing
 
Jason
Thread: How close can I get? Indexable turning inserts....
15/05/2010 17:40:24
30 would not take long to chase with a die in a tailstock die holder with the lathe turning slow, just wind it in, select reverse and back it out.
 
Use a 55deg tool like your picture and its just tidying things up.
 
Tracy tools have 26tpi coventry type chasers listed in their paper catalogue
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 15/05/2010 17:42:49

15/05/2010 07:42:52
I've seen 55deg inserts but not sure what the "partial profile" means as opposed to "full profile". They are the three pointed type so the pitch would be set on your machine.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 15/05/2010 07:45:40

Thread: Magazine
14/05/2010 13:25:10
In the top right there is a box "my account" click the digital issues but they are only available if you subscribe to either ME or MEW
 
Jason
Thread: Bodmer’s Sliding Cylinder Engine
14/05/2010 13:23:58
Not tried it but its a nice looking engine. If you don't have the original build series articles they are reprinted in his book and worth having.
 
If its of any help this homepage of a german builder has a lot of pictures of constrution if you click the "zum bauburicht" link at the bottom of this page, the other link takes you to photos of the finished engine and a video of it running
 
Jason
Thread: Trouble turning brass by a very inexperienced engineer
12/05/2010 19:56:47
Brass is usually cut dry.
 
Don't know what your top speed is but for that diameter 1000rpm should be fine.
 
Brass also likes a very sharp tool with little or no top rake (top surface of tool should be flat not ground to point upwards.
 
Make sure everything is rigid and that the tool is not sticking out the tool post too much.
 
Do you get it under power feed you may be lifting the carrage/slides as you turn the handle
 
And finally is it brass as Bronze or gunmetal are the usual materials for this type of thing.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 12/05/2010 19:58:13

Thread: INDEXABLE LATHE TOOLS
12/05/2010 17:56:01
I've been quite happy with the Glanze ones from Chronos and a couple from Greenwood tools, only one I bought from JB the insert was a loose fit in the holder so moved slightly on the screw.
 
J&L do a good range of inserts and like KWIL it stick mostly to the CCMT06 size/shape.
 
Jason
Thread: Silver solder or braze ?
11/05/2010 19:43:39
Just had a read through a couple of back issues and the subject of Dezincification was covered in postbag. This is where the zinc in the braze material is attacked particularly in some water areas.
 
This is again why bronze or gunmetal should be used for boiler bushes etc and not brass.
 
Jason
Thread: Photo upload test
11/05/2010 18:56:12
As far as I can see you are not doing anything wrong. The same method works fine with my photobucket hosted images but I tried it with one of yours from photobox and it wont work.
 
Edit Just noticed that the urls do not end in an image format eg .jpg this may be the reason.
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 11/05/2010 18:58:37

Edited By JasonB on 11/05/2010 18:59:06

Edited By JasonB on 11/05/2010 19:02:42

Thread: Stuart V10 Drilling initial 3/32 hole in valve chest
11/05/2010 16:48:55
If the gland boss is going to be opened out to 1/8" , drill and ream the boss hole then use a long series No 1 center drill to start the 3/32nd hole at the other end. You can get them upto 6" long but I used a 3" one on my traction engine valve rod and thats a bigger job than a stuart.
 
Jason
Thread: Silver solder or braze ?
11/05/2010 10:06:33
I think there is some brazing in the latest issue
 
I did have a feeling that there was a doubt about the braze material in contact with steam but I may be wrong.
 
Jason
Thread: Which Lathe
11/05/2010 07:38:03
Or you could just get something with a long bed and hold one end in a chuck, the other supported in a fixed steady.
 
Jason
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