Member postings for ian j

Just an update,Fitted replacement back gear cluster this afternoon.All went well once I remembered the grub screw (H26) which locks the back gear eccentric screw(H71).

I get the feeling there may have been a missing tooth ever since I've had the lathe as it was always noisy/rattling when in back gear and now not.

Thanks to all for the advice, tips and encouragement for me to replace it.

PS I managed to purchase a new old stock original part.

Ian

This thread may help:-

Thread: Tom Senior Disassembly

Brian thanks for the reminder about the needle trick to hold the wick in position.

Yes I noticed the new gear cluster now don't have the lightening slots, I suppose before fitting a new one they could be milled out.

" I am in the process of cutting a new 17 T pinion on a short shaft in phosphor bronze to salvage the old component as a spare. "

How do you propose to secure it to the 53 tooth gear?

You don't fancy making two while your at it ?

Ian

Thanks for that Brian.Yes I have the hand book, hook spanner and even a peg spanner for the LH adjusting collar. Just need to buy the new gear cluster and get on with it!

Ian

Just doing a bit of reading on removing and replacing the spindle. When I replace it are the rear bearings still correctly set for the preload and I only need to adjust the threaded collar on the left to set the front bearing clearance?

Ian

.

Thanks for the replies.

Hopper.The ML7RB is basically a super 7 with the ML7 cross and top slide so its the bronze bearing etc type headstock.

I damaged mine by turning a boss on the face of a piece of 1/2"x2"x4" EN1 MS so similar to Brian it was an interrupted cut and maybe a bit to heavy1

Ian

Thanks for the utube link Mike, it confirms what I really thought. Looks like I'm going to have to learn how to reassemble the spindle and bearings, I may be back !!

Ian

What a bad day ! Managed to strip some teeth off the 17 tooth gear of the 17/53 tooth back gear cluster on my ML7RB lathe.

Is it possible to remove and replace the cluster with out the hassle of removing and replacing the spindle. I live in hope!!

Ian

Here's a UK manufacturer:=

**LINK**

When this subject came up in the past(10/2016) I bought a pair of gears from the late John Stevenson for £25 inclusive of UK postage. I'm sure John would have produced a "stick" of gears and parted them off to width. Maybe worth an email to Adam to see if he can lay his hands on any.

The stud just taps out from the top, it can be a very tight fit so a heavy tap may be required

Miles.

You must have read my mind as I did contact the ebay chap.I think he would have been prepared to make one but he must screw cut the thread and then finish with a tap. But he only has a LH 3/4" by 5mm pitch tap.OK for the Y axis but the X is RH.

The Y AXIS nut is not just a cylinder, see photo.

If you join the yahoo Tom Senior group , in the files section there is a file showing how to modify the nut to compensate the back lash..

Simon that's  an excellent solution and work, better than original in my opinion. I'm sure you are very happy with the end result not to mention the extra table travel !

Now we need to see how Miles is progressing?

best Regards

ian

Edited By ian j on 06/01/2019 16:22:24

While it's in your hand Simon can you confirm it's dimensions as 1 1/4" os diam by 2" long.

I know we can only surmise but I wonder if the damage happened when a new nut was been inserted?

Edited By ian j on 04/01/2019 19:27:50

Yes mine is a metric machine as well X , Y and knee (quill is imperial) I have a DRO fitted so I very rarely look at the dials. I've seen that seller on ebay his nuts are brass if I did replace mine I would prefer them to be bronze.

When you remove yours Simon I would be interested to see a photo of it, If its just a threaded cylinder held in the casting with grub screws (like mine) or like the E type with a spigot.

Any way good luck with your repair.

Edited By ian j on 04/01/2019 10:28:25

Could it have been caused by a massive "dig in" by someone not understanding the meaning of Light vertical milling machine

On both my milling machine and lathe I have the belts set so they slip rather than stall the motor.

Simon.

That's very interesting !

Here are some photos of the lead screw nut on mine.Bit late as you have found the problem.Difficult to understand how that damage could occur.

I have about 017" of back lash on my nut.If you ever find a source of new bronze nuts let me know.

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 22:04:01

Yes Miles the limit at the RH end is when the leadscrew support casting hits the face of the lower section.

First photo shows this while the second photo shows the table approaching.

Simon. The feedscrew nut on mine is as you think, to the left,The photo below shows the feed screw casting coming into contact with it. I thought I had photo's of the table removed, but no!

 I can take a photo tomorrow if you like as it's only a matter of taking the feed screw support casting off and winding the feed screw out and pulling the table to the right far enough to show the feed nut.

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 18:21:23

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 18:30:23

Just measured the table travel, on my 1975 machine fitted with a 28" table, as 17.3"

Limit of travel at the LH end is the leadscrew support casting hitting the feednut/housing

Ian

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 16:09:16

John.

I bought a bespoke 6mm orange polyurethane belt from here :-

**LINK**

There are various diameters and types . If I remember correctly it was not much more than the type you join either by heating or with the barbed connectors.

Ian