Member postings for David Clark 1

Yes, lathe carrier I expect.

I would make a simple press tool. Two sheets of say 3mm steel with a 1mm + spacer. Bore the 18mm hole through both strips and make an 18mm diameter top hat punch from silver steel and harden it. Use a bench vice or similar to press the hole. Then put the embryo washers on an 18mm mandrel and turn the od.

You used to be able to get Morse taper 0 from EBay. Probably still available.

The larger one wil be best. Also you can use chemical tray that you can put on window ledges around the house on each machine.

I would suggest silver steel for the spindle. I would not recommend a vee belt on a flat pulley. Probably two flat pulleys slightly bowed in the centre would be best at low speed.

You might be able to etch them with a Burgess top etcher. You might need a diamond point.

You might be able to compare one unknown tap with a known one.

When I was editor I was sent 10 copies (quantity could be changed at editor's request) for any readers who did not get their copy. At the end of the year I took any surplus copies for sale at the Model Engineer Exhibition.

No, no idea but the finish does not look good enough for shell casting.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 20/11/2015 19:12:02

The issues were never put into stock at the subscription bureau until the issue went off sale.

Very nice. I am looking forward to them being available as a book (l hope)

A Zeus book should give you all you need or perhaps an older copy of Machinerys' Handbook.

Neil should have a couple of spare copies for use in an emergency.

Filing is not difficult. With the base above, just file off the lug and then file the base flat. To file flat try and file the base hollow using the flat face of a file. It is difficult if not impossible to file hollow so the result will be a flat surface possibly with a bow. That is where the felt tip and wet and dry come in. By coating the casting's edge and then rubbing on the wet and dry paper the high spots will show as shiny bits while the low spots will retain the marker pen. Keep lightly removing the high spots, recoating and rubbing on the wet and dry paper. Eventually you will have a flat casting. I will cover milling the 10H base casting later on.

I will use whatever photos that are needed to show the individual operations, the quantity will reduce as we go through the build.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 19/11/2015 09:11:45

Hi Mechman48

I am mounting mine in a similar place but square (90 degrees) to the table.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 18/11/2015 20:37:41

Cleaning up the 10V box bed.

I held the 10V box bed in the vice to file off the lug and true the bottom up. I used some cardboard in the vice to protect the casting. A better bet would be some aluminum angle soft jaws which I will get at the weekend. I completely removed the lug and filed the base fairly flat.

I used a flat file on the base and sides of the casting and a round file on the sides of the mounting lugs,

After filing the base flat I coated the lower face with black permanent marker. (A sharpie marker pen.)

Then I rubbed the base on a piece of wet and dry paper to remove the marker pen from the high spots. Repeat this sequence, lightly filing away the shiny high spots, until the base is completely flat.

You could rub the top surface down flat and end mill the underside instead if you wish but it does not take long to rub the bottom face completely flat.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 18/11/2015 20:32:16

When refering to the Stuart exploded views, I will use the Stuart part Nos suffixed by either V for vertical or H for horizontal.

The photo above shows the 10H box bed part No 29H and the main casting 11H. There is a fair bit of flash to remove but this does not take very long.

The photo above shows the 10V box bed part No 30V and the bedplate part No 29V. There is some flash to be trimmed off as well as a casting lug to file off.

The photo above shows the main trunk guide part No 11V. This is a separate part in the vertical engine but is an integral part of the main bed casting in the 10H. Note the two large casting lugs that will need filing off later.

Three missing "V" suffix added by JasonB

Edited By JasonB on 18/11/2015 20:47:01

The readout scales used were from Warco. Although fairly low cost I did not use the budget ones.

The scale above is the Y axis one, the X axis is the same but longer. Both scales and the readout console will have new batteries fitted. I purchased these from Ebay at about £6 for 10 batteries, genuine Duracell ones. The X scale will have a 90 degree miniature USB connector fitted so the lead does not interfere with the machine base, I used a left-hand adaptor but right-hand ones are also available. The Y axis probably won't need a right-angled adaptor.

The milling machine above is a Warco WM14. Note the angled sides to the base casting.

The stops and table lock have been removed ready to fit the readout. The stops will not be refitted but the table lock (not sure if one or both yet) will be replaced by a long Allen screw. The Y axis table locks are at the right-hand end and will remain in place as the readout scale will be fitted to the left-hand side of the machine.

1922?

A lot will depend on the coolant available. Also if cutting a keyway it should be done in one pass. Speed about 3000 if available should be fine with lots of coolant. Probably about 25mm per minute feed.