Member postings for David Clark 1

Groz do blank cast iron angle without slots. Think I may have got mine from Axminter Power Tools.

Hi Mark C mostly steel, a lot of it hardened to rockwell 55c I think. All hardened sewing machine components. Silicon carbide was good for cast iron.

Thank you Brian, same to you.

Hi Norman Despite my wife thinking the doctors are trying to kill me they do try their best. It was only the local doctor admitting defeat that got me into hospital and they sorted me out. A couple of days and they gave me a bone marrow biopsy and a chest X-ray and a scan and decided I had a lung infection which was ignored when I had my final cancer scan. Antibiotics and I am doing ok. In fact much better today.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 24/12/2015 18:09:01

We never found the need to balance wheels and we were grinding to 0.0006 measured over four components. I think our 540 only took a maximum of 6" wheels.

What we did do was to dress the wheel and then relieve the diameter of the wheel about 0.010 deep so it was about 3/16" wide.

The main wheels we used were A46K5V and A60K5V. Occasionally we used A80K5V but these tended to burn on most work.

To dress the magnetic chuck (brass/steel) the best wheel was a Silicon Carbide wheel.

Soluble oil was a green liquid, very much like washing up liquid, and mixed about 100:1.

It was very slippery to the touch.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 24/12/2015 17:58:57

Thank George. Happy Christmas.

I just opened the second-hand Reeves Monarch kit I purchased on EBay a couple of weeks ago. I alway wanted to make this model since David Piddington described it in Engineering In Miniature around 1981.

I have checked it over, ordered one missing eccentric strap and a replacement bottom cylinder cover which will be undersize when I remachine the cylinder which requires a skim or just honing if l am lucky.

The bearing supports are skimmed undersize but I have some offcuts of marine brass to make new ones from.

All the rest of the bits seem complete so this looks like a good project when I am well enough to get back into the Workhop to restart my Stuart projects.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 24/12/2015 15:28:02

Thank you regards David

I am all behind this year, not even bought the humbugs, Just got out of hospital but at least I am still here. I had a chest infection but it looks like cancer is in remission. I should know for sure on Monday 4th.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 24/12/2015 10:38:52

Sound like you will have to improve the backlash problem. Might jut be something loose. Easy to fit readout. Did it myself in an afternoon. Bit of weight lifting involved though. If you don't find the reading helpful, get an online subscription to Model Engineers Workhop and jut look at the photos and drawings.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 07/12/2015 15:38:28

Is mew 236 in the shops yet?

Apparently mainly vitamin d deficiency making me very tired. They have given me a supplement and I already have the health lamp for vitamin d. Main problem is the front room is like the black hole of Calcutta at this time of year.

Hi there not been very well. It will continue. I struggle to stand up and tend to fall over. Blood test results later today, might need another transfusion. Already had 5 this year. I just hope the cancer is not back.

Check the main bearing adjustment and the roller bearing positions.

Also make sure the felt oiler is letting oil pass, they have been known to dry out,

If the front bearing is loose the leverage away from the headstock may be a lot more than close to the headstock or the tool is pulling the work in. It is not difficult to adjust the bearings but you do need to follow the instructions in the manual. Then turn a test bar in the chuck to check the lathe is turning parallel. If not true use a spirit level (cheap one will do) release all four bolts slightly and level in the cross axis. Nip the two bolts lightly at the headstock end. Set the lathe level along the bed By adjusting the back foot adjuster and nip it down lightly. Then tighten up the front adjusting screw so that it just touches the bottom of the lathe bed and nip it.

The bed should be level enough as a starting point for further tests.

I did an article on adjusting level on an ML7R which is probably in the archive section. This also covers tailstock alignment.

It is the practical engineer part 2 In workshop processes.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 30/11/2015 16:43:39

I would use the Dixon type tool post. Readily available, I believe the size is 00 available from various suppliers.

I expect issue 233 will be available soon. Back issues are not usually on sale until magazine goes off sale.

The op said Magpi! When is it on sale?

There are two build series that may help. The first is in Enginering In miniature which is for the Anthony Mount/ Polly version. The other is in Model Engineer back in the late 1950s, early 1960s and was I think described by Sidney somebody or other and may well be the one the Brunel one was based on.

About 1/2 weeks wages after tax.

2/6d what it probably cost in the first place.