Here is a list of all the postings rachel tibbriani has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: 2" Scale Clayton Steam Lorry |
21/02/2023 05:20:37 |
Posted by Dave Payne 1 on 13/02/2023 16:35:09:
Now got to the stage with the 2" Scale Clayton steam lorry with engine finished & in the chassis, when running on air the arm on the virbrating link moves backwards & forwards about 3/16" when running, this when to arm is connected to the forward & reverse lever. Engines notches up OK, valve timing OK, any ideas as to why & how to correct?
Thanks The movement of the vibrating link arm on your Clayton steam lorry could be due to a few possible reasons. Here are some things to check: Check the alignment of the vibrating link arm with the forward and reverse lever. If the two are not aligned properly, it could cause the arm to move when running. Adjust the position of the arm and lever as needed to ensure that they are properly aligned. Check for any looseness in the pivot points of the vibrating link arm. If there is any play or looseness in the pivot points, it could cause the arm to move when running. Tighten or adjust the pivot points as needed to eliminate any looseness. Check the clearance between the vibrating link arm and the eccentric rod. If the clearance is too large, it could cause the arm to move when running. Adjust the clearance as needed to ensure that the arm is snug against the eccentric rod. Check the fit of the eccentric strap on the eccentric sheave. If the fit is too loose, it could cause the eccentric sheave to move back and forth, which could in turn cause the vibrating link arm to move. Adjust the fit of the eccentric strap as needed to ensure that it is snug against the eccentric sheave. Once you have identified the cause of the movement, you should be able to make the necessary adjustments to correct it.
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Thread: 3D printer forums? |
21/02/2023 05:06:46 |
Posted by John Haine on 08/02/2022 10:20:45:
A friend is wondering about getting a 3D printer, and I wondered if there are any dedicated forums dealing with the topic that people would recommend (other than this one of coure!)? Accoeding to my knowledge There are definitely a lot of resources available online to help people get started with this technology. Here are a few articles and below forums that I would recommend checking out: Reddit's r/3DPrinting - This is a very active community with over 300,000 members, so there's always a lot of discussion happening here. It's a great place to ask questions, get advice, and see what other people are printing. 3D Printing Forum - This is a very comprehensive forum with a wide range of sub-forums dedicated to different aspects of 3D printing, such as hardware, software, and materials. There are also sections for buying and selling printers and accessories. Ultimaker Community - If your friend is specifically interested in Ultimaker printers, this forum is a great resource. It's run by Ultimaker, so there are a lot of experts on hand to answer questions and offer advice. Thingiverse - This is less of a forum and more of a repository for 3D models that people have created. However, it's a great place to browse for inspiration and to find models that can be printed on a wide range of printers. I hope these recommendations are helpful! |
Thread: Silver soldering question |
19/02/2023 06:48:23 |
Posted by Chris Gill on 16/02/2023 21:39:56:
I encountered a bit of a puzzle when silver soldering recently and I wondered if anyone could advise. I was trying to solder brass valve chests onto steel cylinders (EN1 or EN3, not Pb) for a model I was tinkering with. I cleaned everything, applied flux and heated inside the cylinder primarily. I picked the finished item in dilute citric acid for a short time. All the cylinders had a black coating on the inside and I assumed it was just a little oxidation but wet-and-dry paper wouldn't touch it. Then a little bit flaked off and I discovered it was a thick, glass-like glaze. After a few experiments I found I could turn the glaze off using carbide tools but HSS didn't seem happy. Any idea what the glaze might have been? In terms of the model, there were several other "lessons learned" so it runs off a small motor rather than air or steam!
if the flux is not thoroughly cleaned off, it can react with the citric acid and form a glass-like glaze on the surface of the metal. This residue can be difficult to remove, especially if it has been allowed to sit for a long period of time. To prevent this issue in the future, it's important to make sure that all flux is thoroughly cleaned off after the soldering process is complete. You can try using a wire brush or sandpaper to remove the residue, or you may need to use a more aggressive cleaning agent to dissolve the glaze. It's also possible that the glaze could be a byproduct of the citric acid reacting with the brass or steel. However, this seems less likely given that you were able to remove the glaze with carbide tools. |
Thread: New on board! |
28/01/2023 11:20:55 |
Hello everyone, I'm excited to join this forum and be a part of this community. I have a passion for all things mechanical and currently, my focus is on model engineering. My current project is a 1/8 scale model of a vintage car I've always admired. |
Thread: Hello From Canada |
28/01/2023 11:15:59 |
It sounds like you have some really interesting projects going on. Your grandfather's steam launch model in 1/6 scale sounds like a fantastic and personal endeavor. The attention to detail with the use of yellow cedar planks and the roberts type boiler is impressive. It's great to hear that you have plans and castings for a Hunslet "Spencer" and a Durham and North Yorkshire traction engine to keep you busy for years to come. |
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