Member postings for Drew Northcott

Thanks all, based on this I knocked one out _just_ enough to get the screw out, just to see how much extra access it got me. Not really enough to be worth it I think, so I've attacked it with a toothbrush and I'll oil them and reassemble.

Thanks folks, much appreciated.

-Drew

I'm trying to strip this Chinese chuck down for cleaning but the back looks like the stubs holding the jaw screws in are a press fit. I don't want to wail on them with a crowbar if I'm going to break something.

Am I missing something or does this not come apart?

Edited By Drew Northcott on 18/03/2023 16:24:34

So if you have a DRO on your lathe tailstock is that also Z? Little z perhaps? Z2?

" The origin is conventionally bottom left on a graph, but not in computer graphics, where the origin is always top/left and Y is up/down."

It's not even consistent within computer graphics, some 3D packages have Z up and some Y up and either left or right handed depending on the dim and distant origins in engineering drawing, graphics, or being picked at random by a lead developer due to personal preference ( Microsoft DirectX allegedly).

Even within flat texture maps Y can be + up or - up depending on the game engine.

I worked on one game where the senior two physics programmers hated each other, and used different systems for direction and rotation ( radians and degrees), anyone elses code that touched physics had to account for both.

Edited By John Northcott on 09/02/2023 07:46:42

Thanks, I'll certainly keep that in mind, I'm thinking I may need all the help I can get .
The projects I'm planning are clockwork rather than clocks as such, but it is an almost total overlap really so I'll stick some of those books on the wishlist.

I've had a skim through the book and it's all metric and uses module 1 toothform. It's a PDF available from the creator's website. #notsponsored
http://briansworkshop.weebly.com/dark-lady.html

It's an http site so will show a warning going there but it's fine, just not been updated. It took a little while to arrive as it's not an automated system I think.

Lots of really great advice there thanks Howard, and thanks for all the recommendations. It's very much appreciated.

The really cool thing about the clock build is that it just assumes you're starting with a lathe, a pillar drill, and some hand tools. Going through the instructions it will pause occasionally and say "go to appendix n and build that tool to use in the next section". That includes an arbour setup for gear cutting and a jig to index using a spare change gear on the back of the spindle. By the time you've finished you've got a handful of generally useful jigs and tools.
Mind you if an indexing head came up for not to much I wouldn't say no

I've started on the metrology, a set of Starret squares, a small M&W micrometer, a Mitutoyo dial indicator, and an older vernier caliper. That's a good point about the sawdust. I was thinking that the front part of the garage is for wood and any grinding (henceforth known as the dirty end) and the back will be for metal. There's a sliding door between the two which should keep the dust out.

Hi all,

I'm just getting gear together before launching into a few projects I've got lined. The stuff I'm planning is clock-making adjacent and involves a certain amount of (whisper it) woodwork alongside the wheel cutting and brass shaping.

The garage is attached to the house and insulated all round apart from the gaps in the garage doors which are definitely on the list. I've divided off the back for the machine tools, that bit contains the boiler and is noticeably warmer.

Tools wise apart from the usual rag-tag collection of hand tools, I've got a modest amount of Makita woodworking stuff, tracksaw, small router, multi tool, and a good solid rolling workbench with an mft top. also well as an aging cheap pillar drill, not great for real accuracy but good enough for wood.

Metal wise I've just acquired a Hegner scrollsaw, and I'm looking for a small lathe. There's one in the classifieds here which I'm going to jump on as soon as I've posted enough to see contact details. Something in the linisher line might be useful as well for shaping.

The first project is the "Dark Lady" beginners clock, as much as a skills /tools building exercise as anything, then onto the main event.

Hi Stuart, another West Midlands noob here, I'm just west of Stratford upon Avon.

That's quite a selection of gear you've got there.

I'm just looking for my first lathe too, something bench sized, but the stuff I'm planning to do is more on the Scrollsaw / small lathe/hand-filling end of things.

This, be somewhat wary of palette wood.

Palettes used for international shipping are pumped full of all kinds of chemical fun to kill any potential stowaway organisms. They are stamped/branded to show this I believe, but I'm not sure what the particular stamps are. Can be googled though.

I bought a replacement screen for a Nintendo somethingorother a few years ago and it came in a kit with a mini tri-point screwdriver and a few plastic spudgers and something like guitar plectrums (plectra?) for wedging into the gap as you opened it.

What IS a clout and are they hard to shed? I've often wondered.

Greetings to the land of polar bear avoidance and fur-lined underpants.

I'm looking at Unimat as a possible first lathe. I don't know how many posts I need to make before you can DM me the list but I'd deffo be interested.