Member postings for Greg Webb 1

I think this link is now working.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12x1co4CRnu7iskOiZPe_bS0tz1qtFsP1/view?usp=sharing

To help negate any tram errors, locate the feature with the dti stylus in approximately the same position from the spindle nose as the end of the tool to be used. For drilling hold the dti in a chuck & for milling hold it in a collet.

This is the last attempt. Sorry no video or other images.

Please try this link, I'm using the embed button. It looks like it is still processing so be patient.

Edited By Greg Webb 1 on 03/10/2023 16:32:22

Edited By Greg Webb 1 on 03/10/2023 15:53:16

Sorry about that, I thought it would work as the site likes youtube links. It works on my pc lol.

Let me try another way.

I use a solid stop system to give a repeatable stop & rigidity to my Bridgeport quill. It eliminates the play in both the nut & the adjusting screw circlip. The videos show the system & the issues with the original setup.

Solid stop system.

I don't think you can beat the clock on the table, or a known parallel, but again with the minimum of Quill extension.

I was always taught to have the quill at full extension for better accuracy. Does anyone have a definitive answer with an explanation or reference to the reason for extended or retracted?

Thanks

No it is too far away from the magnets and the holder is Aluminium, although I have always regularly demagnetisd my indicators and edgefinders.

It is magnetic but quite eqasy to wipe over the magnets. I keep it well above the spindle on the guarding and have no issues with swarf so far. Perhaps because I don't machine too many ferrous jobs on the machine.

On the Bridgeport I use a similar type which clicks onto the spindle nose without magnets, this can be done as there are no drive dogs in the way.

Both are extremely rigid with no needle flutter when rotating the bezel with the bonus of a low working height.

The feature that encouraged me to design the system is that I wanted to keep the dti stylus movement directly towards the spindle centreline and also perpendicular to the bed. This allows the stylus to enter small bores easily without having to set the dti square which can be a pain on other holders. This was achieved by replacing the round dti spigot with a hexagon to keep it aligned at all times.

Thanks for that, I am still learning the methods of this site.

You can make one of these for screwcutting internal and external tapered threads.

Edited By Greg Webb 1 on 30/09/2023 19:21:28

Hi Steve, do links have to be to youtube videos?

If the jig was a tube without any angle, would finding the centre at the base and then at the top by moving the quill up give a difference if the head was not trammed.

https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=comments&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbS1hNTRMWnlMQlhqd0V3dU1JYlc4cHdOelhfd3xBQ3Jtc0trMHN1RjNFcDF5UkVXbWZQQkh0eWxmbXdiQ2Utb0pYTkhLM1IxOFdrVG04TmhOMTNaVTQzOERXSkRCZ054dlNybDFyU19aVU5mbWxwcGZaejNjbDcyZGhtVUtmWUI0UEdvUENsczNvcjdPMW9xSGJCYw&q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1pwSVxKSOu24M2S6xmMeWBGY7t5yaBgxw%2Fview%3Fusp%3Dsharing&stzid=UgxARZVayueqcmCRuOd4AaABAg

That was a bit of a faff to sort out, hopefully the new software arrives soon.

So you can see the holes underneath for 5 - M4 cap head screws that go through the base & key then into tapped holes in the bar.

The elliptical hole is tapped for a sprung loaded ball grub screw that clicks into the vees on the stop shaft. This allows the stop shaft to rotate without losing its position as demonstrated in the video.

Sorry Martin I am trying to post an image from underneath that should explain how it works but I can't. Any tips on pasting?

I machined the profile on a thicker piece of mild steel on a CNC mill. The excess thickness was then removed in two halves on a manual mill using the side of an endmill with the finished face against the fixed jaw. Then it was surface ground to thickness on both sides.