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Member postings for colin hamilton

Here is a list of all the postings colin hamilton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: How to read a micrometer
22/11/2021 12:53:31

Blimey I can't wait to post my next car boot bargin!! Thanks for the advice. So for the last two digits do I just see which two are aligned and that's the answer?

21/11/2021 09:51:35

I'm just back from my local car boot where I picked up a cracking little micrometer for only £2. It seems very well made it all lines up on zero and the dials are clear. Only trouble is it's a bit different to anything I've seen before and is marked as 1 to 10000 and I'm struggling to work out how to read it. The left hand side and the number in the window seems easy enough (in the photo 0.18) but what next?

20211121_094417.jpg

Thread: Help with car boot finds
16/11/2021 15:55:10
Posted by Grindstone Cowboy on 15/11/2021 01:18:31:

Something like this

stud.jpg

It does have a lug and your suggestion is fantastic as is your model. Thanks for the advice

14/11/2021 19:49:35

Thanks everyone. I love the fact every time I buy a tool I end up making a tool!!

14/11/2021 14:52:03
Posted by vic newey on 14/11/2021 11:36:36:

Does the dial indicator return to zero if you release it from a short distance? faulty one often return from a full press but fail from a 1/4 press etc.

Thanks for the tip. Yes all returns to zero

14/11/2021 14:50:45
Posted by Thor 🇳🇴 on 14/11/2021

In your third photo it seems to me that the bracket grips around the moving part (plunger) of the dial indicator? If so it should grip closer to the dial around the stem.

Thor

Edited By Thor 🇳🇴 on 14/11/2021 10:10:43

That's the problem. It is to narrow to go round the stem.

14/11/2021 09:45:44

Now that I'm trying to get into machining I'm always on the look out for car boot treasure. I think I did well today getting this lot for £7.

I've got a couple of questions. How best to clean up the micrometer. It' works fine but has some surface rust and the markings are faint. I'm worried that by trying to sort the rust I'm likely to make the markings fainter.

Also how should I be setting the dti up? The little bracket doesn't seem to fit the post and the dti. Am I missing some bits?

img_20211114_092620.jpg

img_20211114_092645.jpg

img_20211114_093011.jpgimg_20211114_092614.jpg

Thread: VFD size
06/11/2021 16:19:15
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 06/11/2021 14:54:50:

What is the actual current setting on the VFD? This is P12.0 (motor) and P12.5 (drive). The tables you show say 5A set but that a 2.2kW VFD output is 10A max.

Robert G8RPI.

Thanks for the advice. I'll check in the morning

06/11/2021 16:18:08
Posted by Harry Wilkes on 06/11/2021 14:52:03:

Colin before running out and buying a new VFD check that P12 is set to around 8 amps

H

This is getting interesting. I couldn't work out why no value or range was stated. I'll have a look in the morning (my lathe isn't get at my home). It states somewhere I can change the display to motor current. Would that be this value?

06/11/2021 16:12:03
Posted by Mike Poole on 06/11/2021 11:38:56:

A typical motor rating plate for a 3 phase motor suitable for use with a single phase input VFD will quote a voltage for star and delta connections and also a full load current (FLC) for both connections. Typical figures for a suitable motor will be voltage in Delta 220v and star 400v, currents for a 2.2kW motor will be around 8A in Delta and 5A in star, The VFD parameters should reflect these figures for your particular motor. I believe the Chipmaster had a two speed motor and these are not usually suitable to run from a VFD. If this is the case then a more suitable motor may be required. A picture of the motor plate would be great but I understand it is probably not very accessible in the machine.

Mike

It's got single windings. I was helped through reconfiguring it to delta btvghe experts on here. All the details are in one of my earlier post "chipmaster motor windings"

06/11/2021 16:09:44
Posted by Emgee on 06/11/2021 11:52:41:

Colin

The motor plate shown in your Album is from a 4 pole (1450rpm) so you need to change that in parameter settings if the plated motor is on your lathe.

Emgee

Thanks I managed to spot that when I first set it up.

06/11/2021 16:07:58
Posted by Clive Foster on 06/11/2021 15:06:21:

Colin

Inverter Drive Supermarket are my go to supplier. Prices are reasonable and they have a well deserved reputation for going that bit further to ensure you get a device suitable for your needs.

When you say reconfigured the motor do you mean that you connected the parallel connected "double Y " windings in delta just as is done with a normal motor with single windings?

I'm told this isn't a good thing to do as it reduces efficiency and raises power consumption. Makes no sense to me as surely a pair of parallel windings is equivalent to a single winding. If it works in Y it ought to work in delta.

However there must be a reason why received wisdom is that you can't do the conversion although all the connections are there.

The motorvonly gas sigle windings. I wascheloedvthrough it by the good people on here. If you search for chipmaster motor windings on here you will see all the detail. The motor plate is marked up for both star and delta so I'm happy that it's appropriate. Thanks for the inverter supplier recommendation

06/11/2021 14:11:06

I reconfigured the motor to 220v 3phase. I sized the vfd on a simple 3 hp motor is 2.2 kW so I bought a vfd rated at 2.2 kW. I am seriously wondering because I went cheap it's only going to be good for 2.2kw on a good day. My lathe is nearly 50 and driving through a similar aged variator. I think I might just go better quality and a bit bigger say 3.5kw and get a bit spare in the bag.

Can anyone recommend a UK trusted supplier of decent vfd's?

06/11/2021 08:29:34

img_20211106_081920.jpgimg_20211106_081901.jpgimg_20211106_081754.jpgimg_20211106_081451.jpgI'm happy that the motor is operating OK as best I can. All the insulation resistance was checked on installation. I'm OK with the incoming feed. Its on a stand alone ring (2.5mm twin core and earth) and is no more than 5m from the main box. It all runs fine when I am taking it easy but starts to trip when the tool loading goes up. I do struggle understanding the manual I've copied what I think are the relevant sections below. At the moment the display is set to frequency I think this can be reconfigured to motor current would this be equivalent to actually measuring one of the phases?

img_20211106_081402.jpg

06/11/2021 05:44:02

I have a chipmaster so I vary the speed via a mechanical variator and it has a clutch so the vfd runs the motor at a constant 50hz. It is tripping on error code 4 which covers a load of sins one of which is over current. I definately bought cheap (you can tell be the manual!!). I am thinking I will simply replace it with something better. That's really the reason for my question will a quality 3hp vfd (3hp motor) be enough or is it still better to somewhat oversize.

05/11/2021 21:03:54

I'm running a 3hp 3 phase lathe via a VFD. I matched the VFD to the motor but on reasonable sized cuts 1.8mm off the diameter (on steel) it trips. Is this likely to be one of ghe settings or is it better to oversize the VFD?

Thread: Boring bar set up
31/10/2021 19:42:04
Posted by Journeyman on 31/10/2021 15:03:18:

Yes, you could secure the bar with grub screws but the slit is much better. It is only a matter of a few strokes with a hacksaw, nothing too precise. The slot ensures that when clamped up maximum pressure is transferred from the tool holder screws to the boring bar preventing any chance of rotation when in use. Grub-screws provide only 2 or 3 point contacts.

boringbarholder.jpg

This is one I made many years ago from a bit of 1/2" square BMS bar to take a 3/8" boring bar. The slot is just hacksawed. The only tricky bit is setting the bar to run true in the 4-jaw chuck.

John

Edit: Add photo

Edited By Journeyman on 31/10/2021 15:29:33

Brilliant, thanks

31/10/2021 14:49:24

Thanks for all the input. I think in going to have a go at making a sleeve out of square stock. It will allow me to raise it up so get rid of the packing. I also like the idea of adjusting the angle of attack to squeeze it into smaller holes. Would I be able to secure it with some grub screws rather than slitting the whole block?

30/10/2021 19:35:16

I had my first go at boring today. It went ok but I've no idea if my set up was ok. The boring bar I have is round. What angle should the insert be set at, should the top of the insert be horizontal? It needed a lot of packing to get it to centre line. Is this ok or am I missing something?

20211030_154350.jpg

20211030_154339.jpg

Thread: Trugrip conversion
21/10/2021 07:03:18
Posted by Chris Crew on 20/10/2021 23:47:50:

If you implement this modification I believe I am correct in thinking that the Trugrip collet has a left-hand thread whilst the 5C collet has a right-hand thread. Therefore, when closing a modified chuck the key will have to be rotated anti-clockwise. Can someone else confirm this is the case?

Edited By Chris Crew on 20/10/2021 23:50:29

That is the case. Trugrip is left hand and 5c is right handed

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