Member postings for Bdog507

So they are!

I'm well out of touch with Loctite products, as I haven't used them for years. I used to use 638 as a bearing retainer usually when the bearings in motorbike wheels were a touch floppy.

I switched to Loxeal products for such things. They're as good as Loctite, and a lot more pocket friendly.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good morning all.

I would use 638 because it's more of a retainer as opposed to a thread locker. Although such products look the same and smell the same, they have widely different properties. Clever buggers these chemistry types eh!

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good afternoon all.

Clive's point about old names being bought & cheapened happens all the time unfortunately.

My brother has moved some distance away & can no longer bring his motorbikes into my workshop to work on them. So he's in the process of buying a lot of hand tools. I pointed out King Dick as a good make of professional grade spanners & sockets. Until recently they were made in Birmingham. He rang the new owners of the name & they said that current stock is UK made, but in future new stock will come from the far east. So that's more British manufacturing down the pan.

If you have an old but good Jacob's chuck look after it. I have a couple of 2 morse chucks that came in a box of odds & sods that I acquired. They were both stuck solid, but after a good soaking they freed up, & they both work pretty well. I use them to save wear & tear on my Albrecht chucks. Albrecht chucks are excellent, but eye wateringly expensive.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good afternoon all.

I don't envy you that job!

Sometimes an unknown or 'car boot' sounding drill can be a pleasant surprise. Years ago I bought a set of drills that was on offer called Turbomax. The tips were similar to the Ruwag drill you used. They were pretty good, & when blunt I re ground them to normal points. They lasted several years.

A316 does give drills a hard time, and keeping them cool is the trick. I did a job once that involved drilling 60 8mm holes in some A316 square bar for some kind of gate mechanism. On the mill using auto feed and suds everywhere I very nearly got all of the holes done with a single HSS drill.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Way more common than that.

I've heard of those, but never encountered them.

There are indeed some oddball metric threads about, but the thread I have in mind is way more common. Most adults & a lot of children would have actually screwed or unscrewed the item that has this thread.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good show! Glad you've sorted it.

I use the bed stop on mine quite a lot, but have got into the habit of knocking the feed off manually just as it touches. If turning to a shoulder I advance the top slide a touch on the last pass & reverse the cross feed & back the tool out. This leaves a nice finish on the shoulder.

I'm often turning hard stuff like EN24, & the trip need to be wound in a fair bit on heavy cuts, or it'll trip halfway along.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good morning all.

I have a short bed Triumph 2000. On mine the more you turn the knob clockwise the more it increases the trip pressure.

Don't ask me how I know this, but when thread cutting towards the chuck make sure the bed stop is well away from the apron. For if the bed stop is clamped down and the apron touches it the lead screw lever will jam in the engaged position and you won't be able to stop or reverse he beggar fast enough!.......It cost me a new threading tool holder, and wrecked a rather expensive component that I had just spent an hour making!

However, if threading out from the chuck which is my preferred method, clamp the bed stop at your starting point and you'll be able to cut threads without the undercut that the tool requires when threading towards the chuck. Also if threading from a shoulder it looks far neater, and is of course stronger due to the lack of said undercut.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good morning all.

I had this issue with a large left handed boring bar that I acquired with a job lot of QCTP holders I bought. It lounged on the shelf for several years.

Then I decided to make a whopping great fly cutter for my mill for which the boring bar would be ideal. There was one insert on the tool. I spoke to Barry at Gloster tooling and from the measurements he correctly identified it. So it may be worth speaking to any good supplier like Gloster or APT and see if they can help.

Carbide inserts are a blinking minefield! Quite often they're measured by the size of the theoretical inscribed circle that would fit within the insert. For example CNMG turning inserts could be described like this; CNMG 120408. The 12 being the inscribed circle. The 04 being the thickness, and the 08 being the tip radius.

Having had a hefty lathe for many years I had pretty much got the hang of turning inserts, and then I bought my mill. Whooo Boy! It was a whole new ball game! aka minefield!

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good evening all.

For Oddball adhesives, I highly rcommend Advanced Adhesives in Newcastle. I made the most over engineered pepper grinder out of solid A316 for my ageing parents a couple of years ago, & a similar coffee grinder. The internals were made of polypropylene. Advanced Adhesives recommended a two part glue which did the job perfectly.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good afternoon all.

My workshop is two storeys, with upstairs being a metal floor of around 1000 square feet. It's also colder than a dead Penguin's goodies in winter.

I protect my machinery with 68 weight slideway oil. I nearly always use suds when turning or milling, so at the end of the day I clean the machines & apply the slideway oil. Recently it's been positively dripping in the works on some days. Yet the moisture can't get through the oil. As it's intended to be used on machinery with coolant it's resistance to water wash is considerably better than a normal light oil.

Being a motorcycle workshop I'm familiar with ACF50. It's an excellent product, but it's cost is prohibitive for use as a machinery protector.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good morning all.

Another vote for CT90 here. They also make a cutting compound which is excellent stuff, particularly when machine tapping harder materials, and a smear along the length of a hacksaw blade makes for lighter work when sawing, and extends the life of the blade considerably.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good morning all.

Drill bits are a bit of a lottery nowadays it would appear. New old stock Dormer drills are my preference, and can often be bought for little money on ebay etc. Only a couple of weeks ago I got ten 5/16th Dormer drills for £15 delivered. I've found that there's little difference between Brazilian Dormer, and old UK Dormer.

I bought a box of Ruko drills from MSC some years ago. They went from 1 mm to 10 mm in .5mm increments, and there were 10 of each. Once I'd got shot of a few that were bent, I found that they were quite simply awful! They would break with ease, and were really only any good for making pilot holes in soft stuff on the lathe or mill. One daren't use them freehand.

Yet a set of 'el cheapo' far eastern blacksmith drills from MSC I bought have had some serious abuse, have been reground many times, and are still going.

Cheers.

Stewart.

Good morning all.

I'm South west London based. I run a motorcycle workshop and do a fair bit of machining. I have a Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe, and a hefty Semco milling machine.

I've lurked on here for some years, as this is a great forum, especially for hints and tips. So I thought I'd join in oreder to add my tuppence worth on occasion.

Cheers.

Stewart.