Member postings for Chris Mate

I saw something interesting about a question is 60 degree more accurate than 90 degree V-Block turned between two centres.

It seems you do get a different reading rolling the round stock in the V-Block.

Now as I was thinking about this, someting just pops up in my mind and I thought I mention my thoughts regarding this:
Lets say you buy the most expensive sensitive digital micrometer available 100% calibrated at certain temp etc and you repeat measurements under same conditions.....You will be able to measure some difference if its not 100% round.

My point is that a micrometer is an acceptable measurement tool, so with a micrometer you got two paralel surfaces, not 60 degrees neither 90 degrees.The micrometer however does not have one side solid reference to a surface plate, its like "in the air floating".

How does this weigh in on this argument, or is my point irrelevant seeing you measure out of roundness in a V-Block(?) on a surface plate with a dial test indictor on a stand and thats it, the value is not important, just the fact you can se/detect it, and if correct it will be zero in all cases, it must be.

Just curious to know some extra thoughts on this.

Ok, so today I completed the 2nd shoulder of the train rail.

To my surprise the 12mm carbide cutter run through the rail like butter compared to the facemill brazed carbide cutter. The brazed carbide cutter added toolpressure resulting in cutting without adjusting depth up tp 5 reversals before it stop cutting, like sparkout on a grinder.

The 12mm cutter cut freely and no cutting on 1st reversal, that was a surprise.

Due to the uneveness of the rail head underside I nswitch to a different holding method. I set up a 45 Degree "jig" with vive and everything you see in photo. I then add a chain pulling the rail towards this and in vice closed with a round HSS bar tool. The vice stay clamped to this the whole time.

I tighten the two fasters pinned down to bed like a tent, and do the adjustment with feelers and checking it with a test dial indicator.

So I think I can go further with this rail....

See photo:
.

Edited By Chris Mate on 28/11/2022 18:09:44

IRT a neat cabinet for lathe tools.

The 80mm brazed carbide facemill cutter tips does show wear but not broken. I will need to redo them.

I filed this rail before I started and it filed ok where I tested it. It milled ok enough, except a few areas(10% guessed) on one side where it was cut off.
I watch some other video of a guy in funny way milling a rail, breaking his carbide cutters, now that one look hard. Maybe the latest rail tracks of say last 30 years with better equipment and knowledge is a different story, maybe this one was very old piece, I would say its not brutally hard. I can maybe examine the 4x brazed carbide bits and take macro photos of it, the chips did came off hot and some in hard areas red hot glowing. This is why I used this cutter and not my new Walter shoulder mill, inserts expensive. I took .2mm cuts.

I am waiting for duplicate set of 4x flute carbide endmills, maybe Monday, then I want to use the previous 12mm endmill and see how it compares to this brazed carbide facemill ones, I used it a lot on aliminium and metal recently, I would like to know seeing the place contacted me with carbide specials on cutters, so its way cheaper. So far I was impressed with them, 4mm to 12mm set. If this endmill has no problem, I continiue, otherwise I call it some experience on clamping on this one. I did gained experience on clamping.

Theres so much I must still buy, so I try to use what I got.

I started milling a piece of trainrail with the intention of making a V-Block higher up from mill bed to clamp smaller round parts to mill or drill at. After some battle I managed to mill al surfaces square to each other, battles with two sides with hardened spots in it. The rail is too small for an anvil. Used facemill with brazed carbide inserts so far, now to swich to 4x flute carbide 12mm endmill for this.

Today I managed to get it setup at 45 degrees. After some trail and error and eventually I came up with a concoction to hold it tight. Decided to use a dril lvice that came with mill, it wedge the bottom part of rail between jaws which was able to grip it. By turning the handle I can dial in the degrees up to 45, a bit of repetion as I tighten the chosen tight down spots.
-2x clamps holding vice.
-2x larger clamps pressing trainrain in jaws.
-123 blocks used to provide a fence for vice not moving.
-1x HSS tool bit to clamp top of trainrail down.

The whole setup seems sturdy...I am chewing on it today, will mill the corners if I decided to tomorrow with 12mm carbide endmill.

Edited By Chris Mate on 27/11/2022 09:17:29

Milling a piece of train rail to see how squzre I can get all surfaces to each other. Its not hard throughout, but I did see sparks fly milling the sides it was cut off.

Any extra ideas what to make of it for future uses as one piece-?

I feel happy today after completing my 1st toolholder for holding a larger triangle insert with zero degrees so you can uses 3x tips on both sides. I got a set of these from somebody else,Japanese make.
I used what I got, a piece of metal from a Toyota steering coloum, mill the piece sqare, mill the head by 5 degrees negative for this insert. I then managed to get the hole drilled and thresaded(6mm) in correct place, then used a 6mm grubscrew and modify the tip on lathe to have a cam lock, I used 16 thousands feeler guage to get the offset on one jaw of 3 jaw chuck on lathe.

To my surprise he camlock worked well and lock the insert without trying to shift it while locking.

I just thought about something reading this. I made a dieholder for my lathe that fits/slides from the tailstock.
Now the type I got might work, just thought about it had not tried it yet, and that is to use a steady rest clammed on in my case about a 2 inch smooth round part just after the 4x tightning screws for the die onthe holder's tip, that will hold the die+dieholder in position to start, and in my case it can work for say 10mm or so before it run out of space, just a thought.

Ok, I dont know why I did not see the insert option page clicking on the camera, I see it now.
Thanks for info.

It seems I cannot insert the images, or forgot how to do it.

Edited By Chris Mate on 13/11/2022 08:55:57

Hi, I bought two small vices I stumbled accidently on resting surface rusted in a cutlery cabinet corner. I walked past them for about a year no paying attention to this cabinet.
I cleaned them up and painted blue. I used the smaller one the most on my small drillpress. I used the larger one the other day on the mill and really liked it for small jobs. It clamed well.

Both seems good condition not very much used looking at the threads.
Not acme threads.

-The larger one is heavy for its size, jaws 70mm wide. I fitted the larger on on an old X/Y vice I scrapped, remilled the surfaces and bolted it to that to make it higher from the mill table.

-The smaller one is 65mm wide jaws.

-I Googled for a few days but could not find any info on them, maybe somebody recognise the type.

Photos added:
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=58622&p=916378

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=58622&p=916379

A few years back I visited a 2nd hand shop on nearby town which I do frequently, however that time I looked into a cabinet full of cutlery(Never looked here) and to my surprise saw 2 small vices, one good for my small drillpress(but not a drillpress vice I would say), and other one looks like a machinest vice very solid but small and can do angle. So this week I mounted it to an old X/Y vice I used for many years and scrapped since I got the mill, mounted it to the base of this vice to get it higher for small milling jobs. It does not have an achme thread, but one of those where the one side is striaght and the other side at an angle, not a normal thread either. I tested it, it holds up in milling, it was cheap and I repainted both.

For my larger drillpress I used 2x small led 220V lights mounted near spindle, it works fine, but I tried not what I wanted for the mill, so I kept on looking.
A week ago I stumbled on a small flat type of spotlight 10W LED(4000), the smallest I seen so far, the other small ones were just too big. I 1st bought 1, fit it near spindle I can even tilt it a bit, I so much liked it bought another one fitted it to the rear, now I have the lighting I wanted, both 10W. I am milling grooves and really want to see well. So far they did not proof to be any hinderence moving head down close or with my splash covers. I had two larger LED lights on the sides, but to much shadows where I need to see good. I will see how it goes down the line. My eyes don't see the lightsources here. They are also rubber sealed.

Edited By Chris Mate on 30/10/2022 19:53:13

I have a compressor with tank which I sourced many years ago for my father, I then later inherited it. It had not much work done. So after running in circles for corect oil, I manage to source manufacturer, which informed me 30 oil is good, I had no idea what was in it.

Agree thats a very neat idea, as well as trying to indicate a piece on the mill by putting more pressure on one corner so the whole thing does not move if you tap it making you go in circles.

The other day I used my digital caliper and fit it to the mill, to more easily measure depth etc using a probe made, works like a charm.
I then went to the shop and bought a new one from a well known brand where I live. On testing I found it not zerowed 100% of times even wiping tips with my finger, so I went back, a similar one does the same, both new batteries tried in store. I then decided to buy a Geodore one at 3x the price, instant success, it zeroed like a charm every time, the store manager agreed and will take it up with company which also sells Accud.
So for me this was an interesting experience on the shop floor.

Seeing I am milling groves etc in an oil catchplate for lathe, i wanted to measure the depth accurately, so I made an isolated probe clamped in drillchuck, 3x AAA batteries, resistor and bright LED with two clamps one on earth and one to isolated part of probe. I then fit a digital caliper to mill front.
This probe proove to be 100% repeatable in reading touching the surface of aliminium plate and groove depth milled, this actually surprised me seeing I got slightly different readings with two other methods using a caliper by hand. Attached LED & battery assembly to magnet on side of mill, zeroing the digital caliper.
I may do something else in paralellel with a milcutter in ER32 fitted without removing it.

I went to a farm engineering show where I live, and stuff were not cheap, however everytime I pass a certain booth the guy gave me A small WD40 can for free, so I made regular passes for 3 days, have enough WD40 for some time.

After I mod my 3-Jaw chuck to adjust precice at various diameters, I quickly learn I must remember to clean the jaws and scroll before attempting to dial it in, patience is a good thing.