Member postings for Chris Mate

When I bought a new Izuzu, if it was not for my wife staying behind in vehicle I would have never known. As I walked away and put the keys in my pocket the vehicle locked up, the same happens if I lock the vehicle and lock it and walk away, it unlocks with nobody in it which give a window before it locks automatically again. I discovered this only a month after having the vehicle. They could not replace the keys under gurantee , its all the same soft easy operating buttons, so I have to walk away and be sure not to touch it in a wrong way till distance of activation is exceeded.

So it seems no matter how digitally secure the system is, theres always a way accidently around it so far.

Hi, I have a Vertex milling vice with a centre hole in the bottom, so I thought I make a bushing the fits snugly in that hole, bolt the bushing to the table centre so the vive can swivel around it. Doing this I find it very difficult to tram the vice by tapping it. The dial test indicator if zeroed at centre of fixed jaw, I get it to measure negative to one end the same as positive to the other end running it from the centre left or right with it zero at centre. Trying to run it from complete left or right of fixed jaw to the other side seems impossule to tram it by tapping.

If I remove the centre bushing and just tightend the one clamp bolt slightly, I can tram it relative easy and quick to the table.

What is your opinion on this-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 27/05/2023 03:43:17

Its based from data, theres still a human mind behind it, it can be steered, so certain humans will be very happy with it, as data change the results will change, it cannot think like a slow human brain, it however can compute, some human brains confuse intelligence with computing speed, memory capability, data gathering, it still does not have the flexability in the hardware like a human brain(Flesh & blood microbes etc), so we are back to Square-One where one human man has find a way to control others till they eventually figured out how its happenning. In between reality is going on.

Most humans just believe everything too easily.

Edited By Chris Mate on 26/05/2023 05:00:19

I am a bit confused about the types of indexable-?

1-I have a set lathe carbide tools 10mm which all of them in my opinion is 100% indexable as a set. I can set the toolholders on a flat piece and their tips cutting are all on same height. This means I can set up one of these on centre, lock the toolholder in QCTP and every other one will be on same height, you can even stop their lenght as well in holder.

2-I have another set of 12mm toolholders but this set is not 100% indexable. In this case some of them are on same centre height, the others are not. So in this case I cannot swop them in same QCTP holder and expect it to be adusted right, so here a rich man has a QCTP holder for each.

3-Then if one narrow it down to any of these but only the same insert in same toolholder, one could argue it will be indexed everytine as long as only the insert is changed.

-Sometimes I slightly grind the parting tool tip(Iscar) sharp with a dremel diamond grinder, fast and easy, it then eats the metal, otherwise I have to push it hard to overcome the initial resistance, I dont really like this on my 330 lathe..
-Mostly I set tip on centre, if it then seems to rub, I move it down slightly, it then cuts freely, for boring you move it up on the inside.
-I found that quality inserts like Iscar, Walter, and other holds noticibly longer and are tougher than the chinese cheaper ones. It helps if one use the tool as intended for.

--Two other things confusing me a bit is cutting with sides of inserts on Positive/Negative raked toolholders understanding that inserts were made for the type. However if the tip is on centre or just below or just above as desribed before, the side will not be on centre anymore, so there goes the around centre cutting.
--The other thing is given any tip in any type of toolholder, if you take deeper cuts which happens now your hobby lathe has more flex as a heavy sturdy large lathe and because of the pressure the tip is now way under centre compared to a light cut(Exaggerated a bit for explanation), so how many of you have ever measured the dive a tip take when cutting from a reference point with a test dial indicator on insert-?

I look deaper on the horizon to the concept of AI rather than the claims about it, rather than down a tunnel of knowledge. I don't believe it can be called true inteligence like humans have been called, in the 1rst place theres always a human mind behind it, secondly intelligence is not always fast, like in humans it can be slow but deliver good results for decades over history.
3rdly I think AI is an abstract prpection to other minds to escape accountablility from its actions/results. 4thly its rather data based with big memory capability and and fast processing(IMpressive to some) thanks to the basic binary code and other codes running from it, because of this it may seem impressive to some, but its still 100% reliable on stable power(Man made), while a human can sit under a tree in the desert sun and deliver/think out a selution because its brain is physically different, fleshly/bloody different than a computer.

So in my eyes AI is an abstract projection, turned into an Abstract Narrative(Pushed 24/7 like other Narrative to focus minds), from an abstract Suggestion(The idea & motive) and busy trying to establisj it as a TREND and trens are easily followed.

So if if you understand the motive/narrative/trend, and still like it/impressed by it,, who can stop you. How you will feel experiencing it in operation will be different than in the minds of the creators, and if they win, your opinion/experience is void.

Edited By Chris Mate on 15/05/2023 23:54:00

Everytime I want to buy parralels, something else crops up, but in the mean time I use 16mm & 12mm HSS toolbits I got.

I buy face shields, they cut easy don't crack, use wood & disk drive magnets add on, and the nearer I can catch/deflect/contain the swarf, the less material I need, also used stainless coverings(Once off buy) around table works mostly, one needs to be flexable as project size changes. Virtually no swarf outside these contained areas manual mill. Use vacuum cleaner with handmade cyclone(Cheap) to suck swarf to nextra bucket, rarely clean vacuum cleaner itself.

Edited By Chris Mate on 05/05/2023 19:33:51

Make something, and see where it goes to your liking. Then try to figure out what went wrong where and why. As a bonus you gain experience.

Looking at how professional machinests handle a say 300mm bar setup in any chuck, they tighten jaws, then check runout near chuck, in case of 4-Jaw if that set to near zero runout, they go to far end near tailstock and if it has now runout, they tap it in place, go back near chuck reset if necessary, go back to far end and retap it if necessary, a repeat process till satisfactory, important if stock is already near measurements to turn to.
I say this because this illustrates how you an manipulate a piece clamped in the chuck without adjustjing the jaws, which on top of that indicates to the function of the jaws clamping anything with enough lenght to matter and can be tapped right at far end, so the faws dont clamp perfect at lenght nessarly, even on most expensive heavy duty lathes..

The 2nd thing is if you start making/turning anything you wanted to make using the lathe as you got it, how does the results turned out to yor satisfaction measuring it, including your experience-? Are you happy with thos manufactured by you results-? One can theorise a lot about accuracy without making anything.

The 3rd thing is if you clamp the lathe down, you open another can of worms regarding the accuracy of flatness and strurdiness during temp changes of that base and how that will influence your lathe accuracy. You can bend the bed if not carefull to what you clamp it down to.

Got hold of an Angle Plate cleaned and repainted, plus a 85mm/45degree(100mm) Sine Vice which I cleaned, repainted and replaced knobs with bolts & split washers to tighten angle down properly its good condition.
I also got hold of a RongFu RF-115 bandsaw which throw blades=Found main pulley loose plus other pully bush ok, but it had a 10mm forward/backward play=I am going to restore this one so completely disassemble it, will have some parts sand blasted and repainted soon, to replace all bearings

Edited By Chris Mate on 01/05/2023 23:09:22

Hi, this interest me , because few years back I bought an old smallish drill(Green), different like this one build, but the same flywheel on top and pressure on the drillbit with an adjustment on the side.
It took me some time to figure out how it worked. I still has to get back at it to see if I can make the adjustment more reliable. Theoretically it should not break a thin drill with correct adjustment. The trick is in the flywheel slip & pressure & the connection to the downshaft threads and difference in speed between flywheel and shaft to force it down with thread or not. It seems this one although different build uses the idea for pressure on bit.
I was just at the right 2nd hand place at the right time.

If one look at the extremes, it seems if you set it too high, as the work turns towards you, the tooltip must dig in as the work forces itself through it going down on the tip and if setup strong enough a deep cut went through, if not something has to give as it bites in.

On centre you have the choice of fine cute not digging in.

Below centre it will rub on top of the tip rather a drag I think.

Has anybody set it on centre, then attached a test dial indicator to the tip and measure the deflection - to - tool pressure aplied as cutting takes place ^ extreme case like parting-?

.....To see how the depth of cut you want to use/apply match up to the deflection in your case/lathe/tooltip shape and choice of center height/above centre height, so depending on your lathe setup rigidity, may you have to set it slightly different for different depth of cuts-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 22/04/2023 05:29:30

The paint is removed from surfaces that matters, yes about the thickness when you need real thin.

Adding photos....If you want to achive high precission, it will take more effort, but for me this is mostly good enough. I added fixed blocks I made for comparison. In this case it does not influnce your clamping itself, using lowest point in vice not angled itself.

Edited By Chris Mate on 18/04/2023 16:10:16

I have taken photos, many power failures will post it as I can.

I have not seen this, not sure if this method is used:

After I made a few fixed angle plates to help in positioning a piece in the milling vice to mill off at certain angle, a new idea stricked me as I was looking at a flat 10m roundbar piece of metal.
-I decided to grind it off in two halves. I then clamped them in the vice and milled them identical halves.
-I then used one half, place it in the vice with the round downwards resting in the vice inner side(Size will be determined by your vice size). I then place a flat 20mm square piece of metal on top of it ready to clamp in vice. Using an anle finder on top of it, I can now find the desired angle(Like 11 degrees) ver easily by using the half circle as a bearing surface(Reference) in the vice, set it easily to 11 degrees, and clamp it. The piece you want to clamp at angle without this you need three hands to clamp it.
-I needed this to make a new Lathe Toolholder for an insert I got.
-Just thought this is an infinite more flexable usage than fixed made angle blocks.

What do you think, any opinions on idea-?

Of the good advice I got originally talking to a german machinest was to raise the lathe, so I did the same with the mill and never regret doing that extra work.

I may ask you this:If your spindle bearings are not isolated from the gearbox by large seals, you probably find the bit of oil splashing from the inside will delute the grease over time. My lathe gearbox was desined with a hole on top of each spindle bearing, hoever the bearings were open on the inside, and the stuff it with grease and they used a gasket to block the designed oil holes, so here you have vin my opinion a standoff between oil and grease regarding the spindle bearings. Advice to me was give it access to oil, so I made a prototype oil catch lide delivering the oil to the spindle bearings in a positive way, no moving parts for in this case 3 splash types as gears change..

Andy G interesting from 1st hand experience.

The use of the words "Flash", "Fash", "Burrs" in one pragraph in this case moulding indicates to me 3 seperate meanings of the 3 words.

Example:
" Such fash burrs, which acts as a lever during forming, will further increase the flash burr, resulting in local depression of the mold, forming a vicious cycle of further increasing the fash burrs. "