Member postings for BasKo

Thanks to all of you! You really helped me out!

@JasonB: die screw diameter is 2.3xmm. Thus I think BSW 3/32 is the correct size. This was also the reason why I thought about rethreating as M3 because the holes needs to be drilled by 2.5mm. But then the engine would have metric and inch screws…

I also checked helicoil, but it looks like that this system isn’t available for 3/32“ threats.

Thanks for all the response!

@JasonB: yes, the cheese head screws are original! Thus nuts and bolts would destroy the original look.

I think helicoil or to enlarge the thread is the way to go.

Does anyone know which thread size has been used? br indicated BSW? I would assume 3/32 BSW then.

Edited By BasKo on 19/07/2021 17:01:51

Edited By BasKo on 19/07/2021 17:05:14

Here are some photos with some marks of the threads which are stripped.

There is enough room for a new thread, but the diameter of screw head will be the limitation.

Hello,

this is my engine. The model is complete even if the photo doesn’t shows the fully assembled engine.

Sadly 3-4 threads are stripped. I have to find a solution for this. What would you do? Replace the the existing threats by M3 threats?

Edited By BasKo on 19/07/2021 11:16:27

Edited By BasKo on 19/07/2021 11:16:39

Hello,

I own an old Stuart M.T.B. 1a engine and looking for the drawings. Can anybody help me out where I could get those?

Many thanks!

Hi everyone,

I found two of these casting for my Clayton. Does anyone know what they are for? Are these the pistons?

Thanks for this!

Do you also have experience with the boiler kit? I‘ve seen that blackgates offers a kit with flanged parts...

Hello everyone,

i own a prebuilt Clayton steam wagon 2“. Most of the castings and the boiler are missing. I found out that castings and other parts are available at Blackgates Engineering and Reeves.

Does anyone know if there are differences in the quality of the castings and the other parts like the boiler? Are the castings made both by themselves or are they coming from the same „factory“?

Many thanks!

Hello everyone,

first I would like to thank everyone for the fast response and your help! I really appreciate this!

I checked all the hints which everyone gave. JasonB you were right! I found out that both upper bearing parts are wider than the lower parts - this explains why the crankshaft is freely rotating without the upper or only with one upper bearing part.

As the bearing parts contains a counter-sunk which is bigger as the radius of the crankshaft this is also not the problem.

Thanks JasonB, also for the hint that the Stuart drawings do not contain any play.

Now I will remove some material from the inside of the upper bearing parts.

Hello everyone,

I own a Stuart 7A steam engine which was not built by me. The engine is not running. Thus I disassembled everything and found out that there is no axial play between the crankshaft and the two bearings.

If I place the two lower parts of the bearings and the crankshaft, the crankshaft is moving freely. If I place the two lower parts of the bearing, the crankshaft and one upper part (doesn’t matter if left or right), the crankshaft is moving freely.
But if the two lower, the two upper parts (without nuts) and the crankshaft is placed, the crankshaft stops moving freely because there is some friction between the crankshaft and the inside of both bearings.

I think there has to be removed some material. Sadly the engine came without the drawings.

Thus I‘m wondering how much play is indicated by the drawings?. What’s the dimension of crankshaft webs, upper bearing width and the needed distance between them to have the necessary play?

Can anyone help me out please?

Thanks in advance
Sebastian

Hi Jon,

could you give me some hints which of your named magazines are useful for building a Clayton? I‘m looking for as many information as possible.

Many thanks

Sebastian