Member postings for Nick Welburn

After the brief saga of getting the 4 jaw mounted. Tonight I mounted the standard up in the Chuck set for a really light facing cut. 300rpm or so.

Snapped the leg clean off on first touch! I’m slightly astonished as I’d already faced the feet and I assume that would be a greater lateral load!

Ive locktited it’s. Wonder if that’ll hold up to machining.

I can’t quite envision how else to hold it bar the feet. Especially for the boring operation. A feel a glass of beer and a think are in order.

Ok 200rpm it was. Feels weird the lathe almost stops on contact then winds back up and surely enough two clean cuts and we are almost there. One last pass and we are golden!

thanks again for all the advice. I’ve learned so much on this forum. The satisfaction of sorting this when it first registered was great.

I’m using and HSS cutter. At about 800rpm.
this shape

**LINK**

and we have these to choose from:

**LINK**

any advice would be muchly appreciated!

Hi there. No need to drill it, it has suitable front mount holes. It’s just getting the Chuck to register nicely. It sits on but doesn’t go home yet. I am quite astonished at how hard It is to machine. It’s just doesn’t seem to respond to the cutter. It’s taken maybe two hours turning to increase the diameter by about a 1.5mm

Well I’ve had a play. The Chuck is made of something really hard. I’ve made some impact but not much. Are my HSS bits the right stuff for this job? I’ve been making some impact but not much !

Cool. I’ve already got the holes in the spindle and chuck just needs a mount up for the cut of the register

Perhaps better would be to make some unthreaded m8 shanks with a m6 clear hole that the m6’s can go into.

I’m maybe not understanding how this locates then. By understanding is that the prime location of the Chuck is on the centre bore. Assuming I can achieve the bore from 70mm to 72mm then it should sit as per the 3 jaw.
The bolts are then to hold it in place as opposed to locating it? Ergo the Chuck should be stable?

my thinking is that whatever I have mounted to it (which would be by definition unbalanced as it has a no circular bit of stock in it)

Does my logic make sense? Or are the bolts doing the locating and the bore just helps the initial location? In which case my m6 bolts in m8 clear holes will be an issue.

The spindle itself is not threaded. It has m8 clear holes.

My 3 jaw is help on with m8 nuts and threaded studs.
The 4 jaw has m6 bolts.

I’m pretty confident I can bore it out 1mm and it’ll bolt up. Basically as I see it the absolute location is not paramount (it’s a 4 jaw) but it needs to sit well on the spindle.

Hmm. Ok it seems mine is 70mm centre bore and an 84mm PCD.

stupidly as Amadeal was out of stock I bought from EBay and the advert only mentions 100mm and no centre bore / pcd details.

ive just attached the Chuck to the spindle backwards using the jaws. I’ll need to find some slightly longer cap head Allen bolts. But it feels like a goer.

I’ve got a 4 jaw Chuck 100mm Chuck I bought on eBay for my amadeal cj18 lathe.

I tried to fit it up this afternoon for the next stage of my 10v. It’s the same size as the 3 jaw but the internal centre bore is different?
we are talking circa 69mm in the 4 jaw and 72/73 mm in the 3 jaw.

is there a different standard? Would the men of this forum just have mounted it up and made it 72mm?

yours confused but happy of the garage.

Slightly overwhelmed with the responses here. I’ve order a good set of drills from Tracy tools. I now understand reamers and what sort I need. It seems every question has a sub question to it!

Thanks again for the guidance. I’m well through making the flywheel now and loving the intellectual and physical challenges that machine work brings.

Cheers guys. I feel I’m learning a heck of a lot on this forum.

Drills ordered, we’ll see about reamers when the time comes.

I’m thinking about this set as a solid starter?

**LINK**

I assume I need some sort of a handle as well perhaps like a for a tap?

But you refer to d-bits? Would a decent set like this and a spotting drill get me in the manor?
**LINK**

I’m building a Stuart 10v and undoubtedly other things after. I need some reamers I think and I can’t quite decide whether to be adjustable or straight.

it strikes me that straight is much more likely to be accurate? But would adjustable mean I needed less ‘odd’ drill sizes? I only have metrics at the moment.

Or am I being naive and with a set of imperial drills I could just drill stuff out?

Cheers guys. So I guess I’m on the hunt for a few more bits to complete this.
I need a set of BA taps, a set of adjustable reamers and drills to suit.

Thank you so much for letting me just ask really naive questions.

Righto I’ve got started

Put the flywheel in the 3 jaw Chuck about 25 times until it span nice and true. I’ve then faced the outside, the end of the boss, the outside of the boss ( so it’s concentric with the outside when i turn it round)

Next job is to make the 9/16 hole while it’s all still on the same mounting.

What I’ve seen people do is drill and ream to size. I’m not sure why I can’t just drill it to 9/16 if I have a drill to hand off that size?

I have a large lump of flashing when the metal poured in perhaps 8mm * 8mm * 5mm I was just going to buzz that down? Or will the lathe just motor on through?

I’ve fancied doing some lathe work for a while. I’ve never really encountered one and for Xmas I was treated to an Amadeal cj18. I don’t have a pillar drill or a mill. But I do have a z slide and a sense of adventure.
By day I design software, and by night I’ve restored a couple of cars so tools aren’t completely unfamiliar...

I’ve been looking through the box and I reckon I’ve got two tasks to start with. The flywheel seems an accessible item. So tommorow I’ll give it a whizz over with the flapwheel in the grinder and then the dremel to clean it up.
Second job is to make a surface plate. When I fitted the kitchen I bought secondhand granite and cut it to size on site. I should have a little off cut somewhere. That should get the bottom of the sole plate flat.

Nick