Member postings for jon hill 3

Having done some small silver soldering before and looking to do some brazing is it possible to use un-alloyed silver wire eg 999 fine Ag for joining copper and brass or steel?

Also is there any cost saving in using fine silver wire bought say on a real rather than filler rods which may be steeply maked up in price?

Yes I must agree with you Martin, the fish treated sewage lake did not make any sense, however I have heard of reed beds and other bio-remediation projects which work very effectively.

Somewhere on the site there is an article on the Paris compressed air network, which if memory serves correct was only discontinued in the 1990's, 100 years of service is pretty good!

Following on from the Museum of Retro Technology I thought people might like the topics covered in this ezine. Lots of ideas ancient and some modern of a mostly low tech variety.

Be warned you can waste days on this site!

**LINK**

Can anyone explain the difference and what properties these processes add to commonly used metals?

Back when I used to home process 35mm colour film I in my trusty jobo automatic I would buy a mystery cleaner which turned out to be plain old citric acid! The supplier only listed the chemical formula, probably due to the 10x markup.

Going down to the chemist sure saved me some cash.

Thanks for clearing that up, one more related question: if you mix stainless with ordinary steel will the ordinary steel corrode more just like a battery?

As oily Rag has mentioned about the dangers of stainless in high stress applications such as motorcycle wheel nuts can anyone give me some data.....

I dont doubt what people tell me but I like to see the data and context, also it seems to me to be a sweeping generalisation to lump all stainless steels as dangerous for such uses as motorbike wheel nuts.

At a guess something to do with printing or book binding, judging by the presses on the floor?

I did not know that stainless wheel nuts could cause problems or chroming of motorcycle frames.

While we are on the topic of exotic metals for wheel nuts I have noticed that a certain well known auction site has anodised aluminium wheel nuts for cycles. Should I be more worried about these as alleys record for metal fatigue is surely more of a concern than stainless on a pushbike even if it is used occasionally off road?

Thanks Jason

What about hard steels such as 316 stainless, would the knurler work as well? I presume the above is aluminium..

Great idea John, I think I have a tailstock drill pad that might work.

As others have said I will check the threads for swarf and perhaps chamfer the thread on the backplate.

I was toying with the idea of making some deep fit acorn style cycle/motorcycle wheel nuts as I cant find a supplier for 3/8 bsc 26tpi x 20mm deep.

I thought it might be a simple project however with commercial wheel nuts they often have a serrated edge to retain on the fork. I know I could use crown washers or some similar option however how would I go about knurling or serrating the face of the nuts?

I bought a myford backplate for proxxon chinese 4 jaw chuck last august and successfully machined it to fit. However trying the chuck and backplate now it is very tight and I cant get it to thread on any suggestions...

Just out of interest the cycle im working one is only 6 yrs old. I am sure it is not the only new-ish cycle using imperial fittings.

Thanks for all the help everyone! Note to Nigel my Whitworth thread gauge seemed to fit hence mistaken for such.

Again a book or website recommendation on threads going into pitch, tpi, history etc would be very helpful.

Hi Sam

If wiring the money is a problem with your bank open up a Transferwise account, foreign exchange fees are minimal as it is set up to match people who already have the currencies necessary.

By the way I think Transferwise are now called Wise.

I got roped into servicing a friends cycle and along the way of ordering new parts I thought it might be a handy to have a primer on thread identification.

In this instance it was a set of replacement wheel nuts which if my measurements are correct are 9.5mm (3/8" x 26 tpi whitworth. I am aware that there are hundreds of thread types usually identifed by a 3 letter abreviation eg bsf, unf, bsp etc.

Is there a handy reference ie: book, ytube video, website....

I just bought a 2nd hand Jacobs style chuck without its key, a Porta AGP 1.5-13mm. I know the sensible option would be to take it back or ask for a key to go with it which I may still do.

Out of curiosity what would be involved if I wanted to machine a replacement key?

Phil raises an intersting point on font size as I have tiny fonts in the messege box. By the way Im using windoze 7 and Brave browser.

I use Reinzosil on my car so I am sure it would work just as well for steam, however having a look on ebay Hylomar Blue is cheaper. I expect this is due to one being manufactured in the UK and the other costing more due to carriage and duties from Germany.