Member postings for jon hill 3

In the end I set up the vertical slide with milling vice and put an end mill into a suitable collet on the head stock. I judged the parallel sides with a square although I was a little bit out so I finished it off with a file.

I like the Viatnamese guys Idea of using hex nuts. Given a similar problem I think I would bore out some square block and superglue the bar in. Then carry out and not critical turning such as stepping the shaft.

I am in the process of making an additional chuck key when I realised I didnt know how to cut the square end.... I initially thought a rotary table might do the job on the myford speed 10 or proxon miller, however that still leaves the problem of holding the work to the rotary table?

I am sure there are many ways to do this and any and all suggestions are welcome especially with the tools that I have.

Having gone over to a independent 4 jaw chuck for most of my work I think I need to upgrade my magnetic base for the dti. Currently I have an old school double clamp arrangement that works like a school science lab stand. I works but is fiddly to set up. I like the look of the eclipse e910 or similar. Any recommendations?

Thanks Derek, I did consider a pipe cutter. Due to the shortness of the fitting I was trying to cut I would have found this difficult.

Nick Do you have any pics of the mandrel you made?

I also tried using a wooden mandrel pressfit on but the copper pipe had a tendancy to slip. The mandrel was 0.2mm oversize, perhaps I could glue it....

I was turning a small file handle on my wood lathe which went to plan. However the problems started when I tried to part of a copper ferule on the (speed 10) to stop the file tang from splitting the wooden handle.

I must admit that the pratt bernard 3 jaw chuck has some tapering issues on the external jaws which could have caused my lack of grip. The first cut went ok parting off the 15mm reducer end of a 22mm-15mm fitting. However I had approximatly 10mm to grip in the chuck and the pipe must have slipped or snagged as the parting off tip went through the pipe. The result was one shattered blade and broken quick change tool holder!

Thankfully no injuries sustained apart from my pride.

What I wanted to no is how could I grip the pipe better, eg make an internal collet, turn down a wooden mandrel or other options?

Jon

I did try gently prying the washer free but the brass washer was begining to buckle, I could try cutting it with a sidecutters. Incidently is there are technical name for such retaining washers?

I am in the middle of taking apart a paraffin blowlamp. On taking out the pump plunger the leather cup is retained with a cone shaped washer with is designed to go on bit not easily dislodge. Is there any way of taking off the cone washer without damaging it or brass washer it faces on the other end of the leather cup?

Sorry for the late reply Bo'sun yes it seems to work fine. Pump leather had dried out and the previous owner had left it in a leaky shed hence the pump threads were seized.

How old is your tilley? Perhaps you have a small fracture in the tank allowing pressure to escape? I bought a load of extra refined paraffin or odourless kerosene which works well. It still has a bit of a smell indoors.

I also had a problem with another lamp that pulsed a lot and changing the pricker seemed to work. Its very easy to overturn the closeoff knob and bend the thin rod inside.

Jon

Tried all the above thanks guys. I think gripping the shaft with a pair of plumbers grips and a piece of rubber tube worked wonders without marking the metal.

Heres a pic of the burner in action:

Acquired a Tilley Lamp with a defective pump only to find on taking out the pump that the threads are seized. I tried soaking in paraffin and gripping the body in the vise but no matter how much swearing and cussing it still wont open.

Any possible solutions? The threads I am trying to open are all ali on ali.

I think the cause of the orange rust is due to the water vapour (plus carbon dioxide) from the paraffin I am sure other camp stoves such as a butane or solid fuel dont decay so much.

Any chemists feel free to comment on the combustion charactoristics...

I got out my optimus stove and thought I would wire brush off the rustfrom the trivit, however I dont know of a suitable high temp paint that will take direct flame contact....

Any suggestions? Its an Optimus no5, one of those very common brass paraffin pressure stoves.

Just in case the skip hirer happens to stumble across this post and wants his/her stuff back lets just say its in the west country. Im sure the former owner wouldnt want a huge que of people outside there house asking for free stuff!

But your spot on Sod its not every day you come across a load of useful workshop tools. Normally I might have to wade past the broken cans of emulsion, runny plaster and soiled carpet only to find a box of rusty files and crusty garden tools.

I also got 2 useable vintage woodsaws and a hobbies brand coping saw.

Thanks Andy, I thought it could be EN1a certainly not stainless as indicated by the small amount of surface rust.

Anyone else have any ideas on standardisation of paint codes....

Parallel to my other post on my recent skip find I also found 2 steel bars with what might be described as racing green paint on one end.

Is there a standard that all uk steel stockists use to label each type of steel they supply?

I was also going to ask if I need threaded holders and if they would be practical to use in my speed 10 or do I need an industrial size mill such as a bridport to use them?

Last week I stumbled across a skip full of gems including a couple of bars of mild steel some nice old wood saws and a box of slot drills!

Always good to have a look in skips you never know what goodies you might find,

Anyway asides from recounting my good fortune, I was starting to get 'buyers regret' (not that I bought anything) that the slot drills might be knackered hence in the skip.......

Most of the slot drills are Clarkson brand from 8mm to 20mm in a range of 2 flute and 3 flute. Initially I thought that the slight concave edge to the front face was wear but have done some research this may be factory ground.

What are your thoughts on the usefulness of these tools?

Pics can be found in my photo album.

Thanks everyone.

My best guess is an unfinished compression adjustor, if this is a diesel engine. I used to have a few model diesel engines and you had to lower the compression to get them started or at least hot and then gradiually increase the compression. Do you have any other pics?

I find sharpening small drills quite tricky by eye on the bench grinder but am reluctent to just buy new ones every time the point goes blunt or I brake the drill.

Is it worth buying/making a bench grinder jig for sharpening twist drill particularly the small drillls of say 3mm and under? Or a dedicated tool to do the same?