Agree with Durham builder as to location. Suspect the length is [0].8", and the scan has made the decimal point invisible.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 06/01/2022 20:53:48

Michael, on my phone there is another option on the Manage Contacts menu to Synchronise contacts. That allows me the option of turning on or off synchronisation ( or not) with my Google (or Samsung) Account.

If you turn off synchronisation and then copy to the phone, I think they stay on the phone.

Michael,

I don't think Android 11 allows contacts to be used from the SIM. I have a new Android 11 phone, mine is a Samsung so may be different, but it should be possible to move them from the SIM to the phone (I think) :-

If I open the Contacts app and press the three lines top right I get offered a menu one of which is to Manage contacts. Pressing that gets me a set of options one of which is Move contacts.

That gets me a chance to select where to move the contacts From & To. On my phone the four choices are SIM1, Phone and either Google or Samsung accounts. Selecting Phone gets me a list of all the contacts on the phone. Selecting ALL ( top left of the list) then returns me to the From - To menu and would allow me to move them to the SIM card.

I presume you could do the opposite and put them on the phone.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 02/01/2022 12:38:17

I was once told that the easy way to tell the difference between rich and poor is that the rich spend money to save time, and the poor spend time to save money. The "chaos" you experience is simply a by product of competition for your business. If you don't cater to the siren calls from the press and society that suggest you are neglecting your duty if you don't shop around.

If time is that valuable, one way to solve the problem is to hire a "concierge service" that will do all the boring stuff for you. That simplifies life considerably - but at a cost!!

The cheaper ( but not cheapest) solution to household services etc. is to pick a supplier for each and stick with them. Use direct debit to pay what and when they ask for.

Rodico cleaning putty is definitely a different composition to Bluetack. Bluetack doesn't pick up grease and oil nearly as well as Rodico, and leaves a slight mark if you use it for positioning and holding - Rodico doesn't seem to be as bad.

Bluetack is slightly stickier - Rodico doesn't do so well holding pictures on the wall.

Paul,

If you have not previous found them have a look at Clickspring's series of videos on the Antikythera mechanism and his construction of a reproduction. Technically fascinating, and AWESOME craftmanship.

Start at The Antikythera Mechanism Episode 1 - Greeks, Clocks and Rockets. - YouTube

Strip it down, clean it out, reassemble. The bit of plastic under the button cover has got stuck!

I only have one cheap pair that switch off properly. They are a pain. If I put them down and they auto-off then they have to be re-zero'ed when switched back on. The Mitutoyo set I have, a Mitutoyo fake I also have and some cheap £20.00 ones all just switch off the display and remember position.

Look forward to following the build.

For information most of the wheels on my the church clock seem to be about 10DP. The Great wheel on the time train and the 2nd Wheels on chime and strike are about 300mm diameter. The great wheels on Chime and strike are about 400mm diameter. The time second wheel is 215mm diameter. All the pinions are lantern pinions except the 40 tooth driven pinion for the minute arbour and that contains the friction clutch for hand setting.

The clock frame is 1600m wide and 575mm front to back.

All dimensions are approximate - it's fairly hard to do accurate measurements on a running clock.

If you want any specific details please send me a PM and I will try to help.

Michael, as part of a plan to make a model of the church clock which I wind twice each week, I have been documenting the clock. You can see my original posting with a couple of pictures at

A Tower Clock project | Model Engineer (model-engineer.co.uk)

Although this is a Pinwheel escapement rather than gravity arm if it is of use, the details of the clock gearing are

Time train            Teeth Rotation
Great wheel Teeth 120 180 Rotates every 3 hours
1st Pinion Pins        10
2nd Wheel Teeth     90 15 Rotates in 15 Minutes
2nd Pinion Pins         8
Escape Wheel Pins 35  2.29 period secs
Escape wheel rotates   80.00 Seconds
                                     3150.00 BPH
Pendulum Length 1.30 Metres

Drive Wheel for Minutes 40    60 Rotates once per hour
Bevel Gear on Minute     45

Chime train
Great Wheel        240 Rotates once per 2 Hours
1st Pinion               10
2nd Wheel           120
2nd Fly Pinion       10

Strike train
Great Wheel       240 One rev = 12 strikes
1st Pinion             20 One rev per strike
2nd Wheel         120
2nd (Fly) Pinion   10 12 revs/strike?
Count wheel       78

I have a spreadsheet that computes the pendulum length from the gear counts in the time chain.

Fiddling with it suggest that if you used these numbers and reduced the number of pins in the escape wheel to 32, then

Escape Wheel Pins 32    2.50 period secs
Escape wheel rotates in   80.00 Seconds
                                        2880 BPH
Pendulum Length 1.55 Metres 

which is about 61" effective length - so possibly OK for your pendulum.

In a posting on the other thread Michael pointed me to https://richard.burtons.org/2014/11/28/restoring-a-j-smith-and-sons-derby-turret-clock/ which is a restoration of a very similar Smiths of Derby clock, but that one does have a gravity escapement.

Hope this is of use.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 03/12/2021 14:50:43

Michael, Not that I know of - I'm just a customer. They seem to be a firm that makes custom exhibition stands, and this is something they designed to make construction of Arduino based specials easier.

Personally I'm glad they put them on the market - the short tracks make laying out and building one-off's far easier than the usual shields - although it would be interesting to know if they have permission from Vero for the name!!

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 30/11/2021 14:19:38

While this thread is resurrected, I thought I might point people at the prototyping sheilds I found when making my lathe controller. They are from Electronics - W19 Design, and have by far the nicest layout I have come across.

Rather than being an array of through holes, there is an array of 3 or 4 hole tracks and some longer ( power rails) which makes making connections between components and the Arduino pins far simpler and neater.

I have no connection other than a very happy user.

Whiling away a snowy afternoon - far to cold to go to the workshop, I came across this 3 wheel knurling tool Three Wheel Knurling Tools (industrydepot.com)

My musing suggested that it looked a lot like a modified 3 jaw chuck, and I wondered about getting one of the very cheap 3 jaws off Ebay, and "modifying" it.

Any thoughts?

Do three jaw knurling tools need different wheels?

Googling images for "6 wheel toad 26ton brake van" gets me lots of pictures - many of models, but  quite a few original photos.

and a lot of detail about the GWR versions (with pictures and detailing) although none seem to be 26T at

GWR Goods Brake Vans

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 28/11/2021 16:36:47

The other issue is the cost of replacing the batteries. They will have a limited life, and the cost of replacement will be? I doesn't seem to be factored into the figures anywhere and from what I have seen of BEV construction it is going to be a far from trivial job to replace them.

Or are the cars themselves (rather like smartphones and tablets) considered disposable at the end of their batteries useful life?

Feeling really lucky (privileged). I live in a rural area several miles from the nearest pharmacy.

So the doctor's surgery can dispense. The village is four miles or so from the surgery, and there is a community system in place for repeat prescriptions.

I order repeats online at the surgery website. The surgery dispenses and on the next delivery day (Mon, Wed or Fri) a (carefully vetted) volunteer delivers the prescription to my door.

Before Covid prescriptions were transported to the local agricultural repair place in the centre of the village and we collected them. Covid closed them down and the volunteer system was instituted by the parish council. For those who don't have internet, prescription request forms can be dropped at the volunteer's house and they will be taken to the surgery for dispensing a couple of days later.

Minor diameter of the thread = tap drill size for the thread is where I would start

Have you looked at getting what you want from Mill Hill - the UK agents for Sherline. I have a 1042 (ER Thread) chuck on order from them. Cost from them was about the same as buying direct from the US once the shipping, 5% duty, 20% VAT and the couriers processing fees (£12-18) were added in.

If its a stock item with them, they will also be quicker. My Chuck is not something they carry, but were perfectly happy to order me one for shipment in their next order.

What do you mean by practice upon.

I started a couple of years ago in the same position - albeit not quite as far out in the back of beyond but a long way from a convenient source of metal.

I have discovered that using a lathe or mill to make something (once you have decided what you want to make) 40% of the time is spent deciding how you are going to machine the thing ! 40% working out how to hold it down so that you can and then about 20% actually cutting metal.

The first 80% takes a fair amount of practice and is highly specific to what you want to make. The last 20% not so much - there is a lot of help available on feeds, speeds and cutting lubricants.

Rather than simply making swarf to practice the last 20%, my advice would be to decide what you want to start out making (I made clamps and T-nuts for the mill as a start). Order 50-100%+ more metal than you need for the job. I use a variety of suppliers off that well known auction site.

Do the job - then move on to the next item you want (or have discovered you need!). If you screw up the first attempt you will have enough metal to try again. If you get there, then you have some spare stock for the next time you need that size.

Once the T-nuts are done pick another project ( I chose Harold Halls simple grinding rest) and repeat the exercise.

As ega says a bandsaw is the way to go if you have space.

If you get one with a vertical table capability e.g.

Stakesys Stakesy’s Vertical Table Kit for Femi SN105XL & 782XL Bandsaws

then the bandsaw itself will cut the billets and bars, and in vertical mode can be used to cut to lines very (depending on the skill of the user!) accurately. For straight lines simply clamp a fence onto the table.