Member postings for Sam Lawrence

I did the clutch, nothing really changed so I suppose it already had a bit on there.

As a ML8 user of 15 years in the day job, I cannot believe how smooth the super 7 tailstock is now it is well oiled. Like silk!!

That linky was super useful thanks. Unfortunately my oil gun won't fit into pictures 8 and 9, I assume that 8 is just lubricating the pulley wheel on the shaft?

Thank you! Ordered the Pressparts version.

Hi, so I have the Super 7 running, yeehaa, having a quick look at the manual and see that I should have an "oil gun". The internet seems a bit silent about this, I'm seeing an official Myford one for 80 quid (!), is there a cheaper way of getting oil in there - will a standard oil can do it?

Thanks

According to the instructions, the motor was A and B which has worked fine, as you say using all 3 coils.

I joined the two earths into a connector, then ran a wire from this to the outside (much easier!) of the switch enclosure, filing the paint off first. I've checked the continuity between this and the lathe bed which is AOK.

OK, I managed to google an old thread on here, which gave me the handy info that there's a wiring diagram inside the front cover. Happy days. I'm leaving this up for future reference.

Hi - so I'm now the proud owner of a Super 7, thanks for all your help in my previous thread.

I have the old stand from a ML8 which I'm going to sit the super 7 onto. It has a NVR that used to run the motor from the ML8, which I'd like to make use of. But, what is going on? I've wired up NVRs before and not seen such complication. It deffo used to work on single phase with a motor with the standard 3 wires.

Is it enough to join the earth wires, or should I cross bond to the stand? I think I already know the answer to that one.

Thanks

Thanks John, I might well try one of those then. Or maybe one of the Bosch routers, though it wouldn't work on the ML8.

Are you all telling me that you can't lock the headstock on a Super 7 / ML7 etc in the same way as you can on the ML8? Madness... that renders the whole thing impossible and I'll have to stick to the ML8.

You've been super helpful, thank you.

I'm not seeing this price difference. CUD have sold for 700-1000, TUD 500-750, ML7 550-750.

Maybe I should just argue with the ML8 until it cuts level, and commission reamers and bore tuning tools to be made for me...

No, I deffo want a proper lathe.

Btw I make these things http://hunterpipes.co.uk/gallery/

Edited By Sam Lawrence on 25/02/2020 13:42:41

John - I can't find any stats for the chuck max-min on that, wonder if it would take a 4mm cutter (I occasionally use 4mm) but otherwise it looks ideal. My problem with that sort of thing is that it has to get the cut EXACTLY right, I'm sometimes letting in 3mm sheet which must be a good fit, slightly interfering until I polish the key. If a rotary cutter cuts slightly baggy slots, or wanders on entry, that is a big no no.

If there was a way of winding it up and down that'd be ideal as I could cut at 2.5mm and then finish.

I have thought about a fast spinning metal thing method but I'm concerned that the slots would be less accurate.

Oh and Google is not my friend for the bosch router, no results

Edited By Sam Lawrence on 25/02/2020 12:46:07

The CS powers us when there is no sun or wind, also powers things like a compressor that make the inverter cringe. It drives a 5k AC generator

**LINK**

This is the sort of thing I'm looking at.

When my hands are sore, I start the slot, then saw slightly inwards on both sides and knock that bit out - this leaves the tool v little work to do and I could maybe then remove the feed screw if I always did that.

Those rotary tables are neat, but it's all ££ especially with a decent mill.

I am happy with my method though, I just need more accuracy. And to be able to work metal with more accuracy.

I also sort of like the idea of threading mounts like my old 18th C set, see I'm already rowing back on my pledge not to need screw cutting!

This is what I'm actually doing, there can be up to 8 key slots on a chanter. I really don't like the idea of having to do this on a mill - I do possess the ability to mill and do cut slots in drone reed bodies using a cross slide on the substantial pillar drill. I know a milling machine is more accurate than this, but the clamping problem remains the same.

A milling machine would be useful for removing the stock on the D reamers, but not essential.

I can't see how I'd fix even a laminate cutter here and have the bit at centre height. Other makers I think use a dremel, or the remote flexy thing and mount that.

Hi folks. Thanks for all that.

Rob - I am currently racking the compound slide to and fro, and there's a lot of resistance. I have a 3mm cutter that I have backed off all round so it doesn't bind - it produces an excellent result without any of the worry I'd have from using a powered cutter. Thanks for the book recommendation, I'll read. I have used metal lathes a bit but certainly am short of knowledge.

Daniel - I want to make reamers, and turn brass, so a milling machine is no good. Also, clamping the work in a way that makes it easy to turn is tricky.

Derek - not advisable...

Howard - when you say far eastern import, what model are you thinking of? Clarke stuff?

Bazyle - I have thought about powering the slide, but the ML8 is cutting slightly wonky so I need a more precise lathe anyway. I don't actually use screws in my work (maybe 8 a year...) but for arcane reasons I have 4 identical Hitachi battery drills so I can deffo spare one!

old mart - I thought this last night, if I stop halfway through engaging the backgear on a ML7 the headstock is disconnected from the drive aye? Will it hurt it to run like this?

Brian - thanks. might make sense to do that.

Martin - yes I suppose I could use a revolving centre without a taper (if such a thing exists, or turn the taper away) in the headstock chuck, and any old thing in the tailstock, in fact I could clamp the workpiece at the tailstock end. Thanks to google I now know what a lathe dog is...

So ML7 then? ML7R? There doesn't seem any point in getting a super 7, never mind that I can't afford it.

The only other think I may use the lathe for is keeping the old Lister 5.1 CS working, but I can still buy parts so that's not a big deal.

Thanks again, Sam

Hi. I make wooden things for a living, and do a lot of work with non-ferrous. I'm finally going to get myself a "proper" lathe, I'm thinking ML7 size. I need a distance between centres of at least 19".

I have a question - is it possible to have the headstock stationary, and use the lathe motor to move the carriage from side to side to cut keyways in hardwood? My hands get v tired moving the compound slide around on the ML8. If it is possible, is it possible on a ML7?

The ML8 is cutting the slots slightly uphill, which is no good.

The other thing I need an engineering lathe for is making tapered (mainly) reamers. I'd also stop turning my brass on the ML8, although it does work surprisingly well for this with the compound slide, and I have made accurate conical reamers from mild steel too.

I missed out on a ML4 though tbf I thought it was just a bit too old skool. That was £310. I can't really go higher than a £1k, which would have to be for a solid machine needing little or no work.

I'm not buying new, also can't be a massive heavy thing.

What should I look at?