Member postings for Iain.S

Tried Sterling Nut & Bolt in Peterborough without success (it was worth a try - thanks for the suggestion Howard).

I've got some standard sized SCH screws so I'll adapt those. It won't be a perfect or pretty job but it'll at least get me to where I want to be.

Iain

Many thanks for the responses chaps. Much appreciated.

The bolts are the bedding bolts for a CZ rimfire.

Replacement screws (i.e. same ones) can be found in abundance but isn't what I'm looking for. As mentioned in my earlier post, what I'm chasing is to upgrade the bolts, replacing the slotted head with either SCH or Torx.

Agreed, slotted heads do not get chewed up if treated correctly but 1. you don't always have the luxury of guaranteeing that previous owners have used the correct tools (it's secondhand) and 2. I've given up trying to find a 10mm wide screwdriver bit that fits in to a 1/4 drive torque wrench.

Iain

I'll let you know Howard

Iain

Bob - You're correct in that they are standard gun screws but these are slotted head. I'm looking to replace them with SCH or Torx before the slotted heads get too chewed up. The screws are readily available as an upgrade in the USA but not in Europe. USA stores won't ship internationally because of ITAR (International Traffic in Arms Regulations).

Howard - Hadn't thought of Sterling. I'll give them a go tomorrow but surely they only deal in run of the mill stock?

Iain

LH screw:-

o/all length = 37.3mm

Head diam = 10mm

M6 thread

Threaded portion (to the shoulder) = 9mm

Plain shank (under head to the shoulder above the thread) = 26mm

R.H screw:-

o/all length = 26mm

Head diam = 9.8mm

M6 thread

Threaded portion = 12.5mm

Plain shank = 9.5mm

Head thickness = 4mm

Max torque loading on these will be 4.5Nm

I think the above covers all the detail and I'd be looking for 2 off of each screw.

I'm hoping someone on the Forum can help me here.

I'd like to find someone that can make a set of 4 screws for me, in order to replace some damaged items.

Screws are M6 thread and need to be either SCH or Torx but the length/profile/heads are not standard so will need to be adapted from existing screws or made as 'one offs'.

I lve near Wisbech, Cambridgeshire and don't own a lathe to make them myself, hence the request.

Anyone?

Iain

Anthony

I recently purchased one of these and it's still shiny & new but yours looks as if it's seen a bit of service. Working on the premis that both our machines are identical and there haven't been any upgrades/changes, number 1 is actually two seperate things.

As Frances notes, the flat plate held with 2 small setscrews, is a load spreading plate for the annoying plastic guard. It serves no other purpose other than to prevent the screws digging in to, and weakening, the plastic guard.

The other part (the recessed M8) is I believe, a very primitive method of taking up play in the main spindle sleeve. I had a go at nipping it up to try and get rid of a slight wobble in the spindle box but it very quickly locked up the whole head assy! As I said, very primitive.

I believe number 2 is supposed to be the quill lock but again, it's another very primitive effort that would benefit from a lever or handle so searching for the mod that Frances refers to might be worth a go. To date though, I haven't found a need for it.

Hope this helps a bit

Iain

Many thanks again for your input Chaps and whilst you may not regard them as such, they're neat looking boards. Certainly better than I could produce.

I've seen the TouchDRO complete board and like you, found the price a bit rich which is why I've gone for the DIY kit. At nearly half the price, it's still a more expensive option than your efforts but I don't have the benefit of enough electronic knowledge to attempt my own version. Basic soldering I can achieve but any detailed descriptive knowledge might as well be in Klingon to me.

Not wistanding that, the info you've provided is helping me understand.

Thank you.

Iain

Many thanks Dennis. Did'nt think to look further than the actual item I was ordering. That'll prove useful but it it will still involve connecting the USB breakout boards with what is, to all intents & purposes, flyleads.

What I'm looking for is a UK source of breakout boards with just four connections to match Yuriy's board and end up with a neat installation.

Iain

Apologies all. I got it slightly wrong. The scales I have are the digital readout bars from Arc which are of course, capacitive not magnetic . According to Yuriy's site, they are just debadged IGaging scales.

USB headers are the female sockets that solder onto a circuit board to accept a male USB plug. Normally called breakout boards. I need Micro-B sockets to suit the plugs on the scales.

My question is, the DIY board from Yuriy only has 4 holes to solder on the breakout boards for each of the X,Y,Z axis USB connectors, yet the breakout boards I can find for sale in the UK have 5 connections as shown by the ones used by Stuart S 5 in his link above.

So how do I connect the two together? Whilst I'll openly admit to not being an electronic expert, even a spanner monkey like me can see the difference

Iain

Edit - forgot to add that this is all for installing a TouchDRO system

Edited By Iain.S on 27/04/2020 10:43:48

Has anyone had first hand experience of building one of these for IGauging scales (magnetic type as sold by ARC)? I'm in the process of ordering one and whilst waiting, I need to buy some USB headers & I have a question about them.

Many thanks

Iain

It was a long time ago but if memory serves me correct, yes. Don't know about the 15k though. It had a rev counter fitted but I rarely looked at it whilst racing. Things were happening too fast.

Iain

Long time ago but I used to race karts. Started in 100 International whilst I was based with the RAF in Germany (mid 70's). Zip chassis with a Parilla engine. Racing was good but the drinking was better (afterwards I hasten to add).

Once posted back to UK, I moved up to 250 International; Zip chassis with a Yamaha air cooled twin, reversed barrels, stuffed crankcase & 32mm Mikuni carbs. Sounded awesome and went like a bat out of hell. Raced in the Yamaha Challenge at various circuits around the country (3 Sisters, Little Rissington, Snetterton, Fulbeck, Kimbolton) with a small modicum of success. Even managed to get it flown out to Akrotiri in Cyprus for some demonstration runs; the first time such a beast had been seen on the island. It got a lot of interest from the locals.

All finished when the Rotax in-line twins appeared and it got too expensive for me. Still miss the thrill of doing such speeds with the backside 1/2” off the ground.

Iain

Ian - good to hear that another old bus has been saved from the graveyard. I was lucky enough to spend a short time (far too short) with the RAF's Vintage Pair of Meteor & Vampire when they were based in Yorkshire back in the 70's. Happy days. North Island might be a bit of a commute for me though

Martin - I might have a bit of trouble getting the Victor into the back of my old estate car - may need two trips perhaps .

Howard - Cleeve Place behind the back of the old Blue Boar pub, correct? You'll have to let me know exactly where & I'll pop over some time. It's only 15 mins from me.

Once again, many thanks for the welcome chaps.

Iain.S

Thanks for the welcome chaps. I doubt that I'll have any skills that would be useful here (unless you want an old RR Avon engine setting up).

Just looking forward to tinkering and, as Brian suggests, you never know where it'll take me

Iain.S

Many thanks for the positive responses chaps. They've been really helpful.

Upgrading to CNC level is a step too far at the moment, so I'll rule that out and stick with manual operation.

The main issue is as Jason suggests, with rough feed & backlash. I've played with the split nut block under the tables to try & reduce backlash but find that it's a very fine adjustment between a sloppy bed & binding screw which is why I thought about ballscrews.

Having scanned the various posts suggested (plus a few others), I think I'll do as you recommend and go with installing bearings & thrust races to the handwheels. A replacement, longer X axis bed was planned anyway, and it'll need a longer screw so I'll start with that. Will order a boring bar & replacement bearing block to play with. Arc is going to have a regular customer over the next few months .

A belt drive conversion kit (mbbilici) & DRO's will be next on the list.

Once again, many thanks.

Iain.S

Hello All

I've recently bought a Clarke CMD10 (Sieg X1) mini mill to play with in my retirement. Yes, I know I could have got bigger & better, etc, etc, but for the small stuff I want to do, this is a good starting point. Upgrades will follow but I'd rather learn & become more confident with basics first.

My first issue is with the agricultural leadscrew arrangement on the X & Y. Ballscrews appear to be the way to go but the 12mm ones won't fit and 10mm ones are as rare as an honest politician and cost the same as a third world debt!

On such a small machine, is there any valid reason (not opinion) preventing the use of the more common 8mm ballscrews? I know a 12" deep cut in one pass will be out of the question and I can live with that but could a supported 8mm screw be man enough for general light work & small pieces?

Iain.S

Just joined today after watching for several months.

Live near Wisbech Cambs, 66, recently retired and got a mini mill to play with to stop me getting bored.

I'm turning the garage into a small man-cave/workshop and will expand it as the mood takes me but a mini lathe will definately be added soon.

No particular leanings toward any of the 'normal' model engineer disciplines so I'll have a go at anything that takes my fancy. Just want to re-learn some old skills (ex-RAF Techie) and learn some new ones.

Looking forward to spending some time on here learning from the experienced guys.

Iain.S