Member postings for Bo'sun

Another vote for Joe Pie. When you listen to what he says, it makes sense.

If you haven't already, you could try using one of the interchangeable screwdriver bits. They have parallel tips as apposed to a regular screwdriver tip that's tapered that might induce "cam out". However, do bear in mind, the ISB's tend to be a bit brittle.

Also, another vote for the impact driver. Good luck.

Providing you can run your lathe in reverse, you can also use a RH boring bar mounted upside down. Power feed will also work if you can reverse the leadscrew. It worked for me making the wheels and the flywheel for the Myfordboy Traction Engine on my Warco WM250.

Just remember to change back to forward speed when conventional turning. It caught me out a few times.

The amount of "kick" you see can vary depending on the viewing position. Are you viewing it from a different position?

Have a look on the "Blondihacks" (Quinn Dunki) website where she makes one of these "float lock" vices. Several instalments if I remember correctly.

From OP,

Oops, should have read 0.18mm. Thanks for your observation Clive.

Yes, I agree with other posters that 0.018mm is insignificant.

However, I am concerned about finding loose screws.

Hi ChrisB,

You maybe correct, but it would have been nice to see some reference to it in the operators handbook (or maybe not, seeing how much other useful info' has been omitted).

The design is more likely so they can produce cheaply with wide tolerances.

Hello Nigel,

Now that I've got a fix, I'm not going to pursue the warranty claim. That also avoids a whole lot of lifting, repacking, unpacking, more lifting and realigning.

The fixing hardware is just ordinary socket head cap screws.

Good afternoon,

I've had my Warco WM250 for over a year now, with an outstanding warranty concern regarding "carriage lift" of around 0.018mm. Outstanding because of Warco supply issues and a domestic issue.

A 0.015mm feeler gauge inserted in the gap appeared to give satisfactory results without binding. So I set about removing the clamps to machine some material off and reduce the gap. However, all four bolts (two each side) were found loose. Simple I thought, just tighten them up, but tightening them up just locked the carriage. For the time being, I've been operating the lathe with them just tight enough to remove the lift without binding. I now have to work out a new machining regime. Seems strange to have a Gib at the rear of the carriage but nothing at the front.

Also, I found the two tailstock adjusting screws loose.

Sparey's book is OK, but the quality of some of the photographs in the later editions leave a little to be desired. Presumably where they are a copy of a copy of a copy.

Last year, in either ME or MEW, a guy was advertising bespoke oak toolmakers chests at what I considered reasonable cost.

Sorry, but that's all the help I can be.

As it says above, "do they exist?". They all seem to be imperial.

Agree with Bezzer and Ian Parkin, but just be patient, my little Chester bandsaw realy surprised me. Good luck.,

ARC Euro also sell some Loctite type products.

John,

Have you tried the "Bowers Group", who either own or distribute M&W products for spare parts?

Hi RMA,

Have a look at "Ades Workshop" on youtube. He disassembles a WM16, which is likely to be similar, and shifts it, from his place of work (where it was delivered to), through the house, and down some stairs to his garden workshop shed.

I thought so!