Member postings for Bo'sun

Bernard,

You're probably right, and very gritty pumice powder.

Graham, mentions the use of Ajax. Has anyone tried getting hold of "Ajax", or "Vim" for that matter. Last time I looked, Vim seemed very pricey for what is was. Or maybe I'm just out of touch!

Degradation/ageing is a big issue with plastics. I've seen examples that bear little resemblance to the originals. So straight identification might be a problem.

Hello Simon,

Give plenty of consideration to ventilation. A PVC/plastic garage is almost certainly going to sweat. Not good for any vehicle, let alone a lovingly restored classic.

Sorry I can't help you with the hardware itself.

Good luck.

Hi Andrew,

Why just a single wheel?

Thanks Vic,

The discs on my 12" Disc Sander don't last too long when sanding metal, but I suspect suitable discs for metal are few and far between (if at all). Also, as stated previously, being a sander designed for wood, the speed quickly gets the metal very hot.

Good morning All,

I like the idea of cutting a recess for the magnets, but the material is only 1/16" thick. Yes, a 1/32" recess would be possible, but the steel strip is quite narrow, and I fear any recess(s) would weaken it.

I'll experiment with JB Weld and bear in mind the comment from Dave Halford regarding the plating on the magnets.

Are there different grades of belts/discs for wood and metal?

Good point Jason,

Not fuel, but cutting fluid. I'm making some removable way covers.

Good afternoon All,

As the title suggests, what adhesive to fix Neodymium Magnets to Mild Steel?

I have Araldite and JB Weld. Are there better options?

I guess roughing-up (and degreasing of course) both surfaces would be a good idea.

Hi Malcolm,

Have a look a the Warco 9576 Base Plate. The product description implies that the WM240B does not have tee slots.

Hope this helps.

Good morning Malcolm,

I don't think the WM240B has tee slots in the cross slide. This is likely to be a hindrance if you wish to use a "milling slide", "rear tool post", etc. Having said that, I suspect a little reworking of the cross slide might be possible. But not something you may necessarily want to do on a new machine and invalidate the warranty.

I'm not sure if "T-Wash" is the correct name, but it turns the bright galvanized finish a sort of black colour ready for painting.

If I remember correctly, Hammerite have such a product.

On the other hand, the cheap way, and if you're not in a hurry, would be to wait and let it naturally oxidize for about 6 months before painting.

Coincidence maybe, but at the moment (literally) I'm also looking for good quality wheels for my 6" ELU grinder, so any suggestions would help me too.

Thanks

It's great to see Dominic Chinea (from the Repair Shop for those wondering who he is) championing the cause for "heritage craft skills". Whilst I applaud him, and anyone else doing similar things, I fear it may just be a little too late.

Oh, and don't get me started on apprenticeship schemes.

I would try to avoid the issue of "motor bounce" if you can. My bandsaw suffers from it, and it drives me round the bend. So much so, I'm in the process of trying to fix it with some form of positive belt tension adjustment.

I was given to believe that happened to Cold Rolled Steel.

KNEW also have a flat frame design that's not 3D titanium, and at a much more reasonable price. I have one and it works perfectly. Why I'd want a fancy 3D titanium one is beyond me.

It strikes me, that for some people, it's worthless unless their peer group know what they paid for it.

I'd also say metric, but the 5.69mm diameter is worrying.