Member postings for AJAX

Can anyone suggest a suitable method to repair this broken casting on a foot-mount motor? I would prefer something that looks good and strong (rather than JB Weld and some thick paint) but I would prefer not to invest too much time or money.

My stick welder is not suited to this job but I do have a good propane torch which I only use for heating parts up for assembly/disassembly. I have no experience using aluminium brazing rods. I realise there are cheap brazing rods available online but I'm guessing they are not particularly good.

I may end up pinning the joint, but I may need another look to see if this is possible. Pinning could also be combined with wrapping some flat around the corner and screwing it for reinforcement. However, I don't expect this would look very pretty.

I look forward to your suggestions.

It's a small geared motor.

50 lb-in torque.

Don't invite a dealer in. You'll get peanuts.

Sell on eBay. The auction will realise the actual market price for you.

Start at a price that will interest buyers. Don't start too high.

Don't offer a buy it now price. More fees. No value to you.

Wait until the 80% discount on seller fees if you can.

Myford trilever with electronic power feed £699

Small bench pillar drill £39

[Name of machine] powered shaper £399

Etc.

That will get plenty of interest.

If you can, find someone with some knowledge to identify parts. Eg chucks, milling vices, tooling, etc. Don't just give this away with the machines.

I'd be very interested if anyone remembers the supplier name.

Admin, please feel free to delete the thread!

Ignore me... I just realised that next to the 85 degrees it says "c/out". Must be thermal cut out.

I have a single phase induction motor that I would like to put to use.

The motor is wired with 6 leads. I have probed with a multimeter and found the following:

White, red and yellow appear to be the motor winding connections (2, 4 and 9). The windings measure about 115R each.

The two brown leads are connected together (about 1R6). They are electrically isolated from the other leads. I presume the two brown leads are connection 1 "c/out". Could anyone suggest how these two leads are used? I did wonder if it was "count out" but I've turned the motor over and the resistance does not change. Maybe a thermal trip?

Many thanks,

Brian

How "high speed" do you need?

We have about 6 of those little Proxxon drill presses for PCBs. Some are mains powered, others use a brick adapter. I don't particularly recommend them. The chucks are low quality and there is a lot of slop in the mechanisms.

What material are the labels made from?

Pete, I had a look at your album photos and noticed you have added a spindle lock for grinding wheel changes. I was wondering about doing that myself when I inspected the spindle and saw the hole. Do you find it a worthwhile modification?

Another question, I was wondering about adding a slide lock (not yet considered "how" in any detail) to be used when dressing the wheel. Or don't I need one? Last time I used a surface grinder was 35 years ago...

Yes, I'm using a VFD. Frequency will be limited to 50hz. I would have been happy with single phase for this application but I had this motor and it fits the space.

After looking at the spare motors I had (several would fit, but all were 1420 RPM) and considering the need to change the pulley and belt, I ended up splitting the hard wired Star point on the original motor. This actually turned out to be very straightforward. It took about 1 1/2 hours to do.

Hi Jon,

That sounds like a very expensive pulley to me. I would have thought it should be possible to find one elsewhere at a much more reasonable price. Shame those threads have not been looked after.

Mine is probably a series 4 based on what I've seen on the Lathes website. However the table size didn't exactly match the descriptions. It's 21 x 8" with a single t slot.

Pete, why did you opt for poly vee pulleys? Was slippage an issue? I've only tried the machine once, and that was at the seller's premises. All seemed to be good.

I'm aware of the z-axis screw issue, and that's why I would prefer to use one of my existing motors which I believe will fit.

Well, it's 2850 RPM on the data plate so I would assume so.

I have an Eagle surface grinder (not sure of the exact model - the bed measures 21 x 8" and the serial number may indicate this is model "4" ) that is currently fitted with a 1.25HP 380/440V 3-phase motor. This is a 2-pole 2850 RPM motor.

My intention is to remove the motor and see if I can dig out the star point and rewire as delta. Alternatively, I have numerous other 3-phase motors to hand which have a nice compact form-factor and will fit the existing space. Newer motors (e.g. 80 frame) will likely foul the lead screw.

Off the top of my head, I have a choice of 0.75 HP, 1 HP and 1.5 HP all of which are 4-pole motors therefore running at 1425 RPM @50 Hz. To maintain the grinding wheel speed I would need to increase the motor pulley size. Under no-load conditions this would obviously work fine but would it perform poorly when grinding? I suspect the higher speed motor would be the better option but as I have some "free" motors the only cost will be my time boring / bushing a pulley from my junk box and trying this out.

Your comments, please.

Edited By AJAX on 16/04/2022 08:00:50

Why would you need to "trim the axle"?

My usual fix in these situations is to turn and bore a piece to fit over the existing shaft. Bored slightly undersized, warmed up and tapped into place. Rock solid and no wobble.

That shaft doesn't look too bad. If the pulley hole is worn / oversize you may be lucky with a shim made from an aluminium Coke can. My wife has a Meddings drill for sale; the cover bar is threaded 3/8 x 20 BSF.

Whereabouts are you? May have some Meddings spares.