Member postings for AJAX

The well-known Lathes website states the following:

the spindle accepted standard dead-length Crawford collets (1.5" long with capacities ranging from 1/8" to 1/2" )

Is this something I could obtain without selling a kidney? 

Edited By AJAX on 04/10/2021 21:25:33

Yes, the Z axis is "interesting" but it seems to work very well. I've only tried it for a couple of test cuts but I rather like it already. Unlike most older machines I've owned, this one appears to have very little wear.

I read the same webpage which mentions the "BC miller" but I wonder where the author gets that name from. Mine has various names on the castings including VM20 and VM4.

When I Google "Portmac" all I get is Apple Mac computer ports!

Having just checked what I actually possess, I need to correct what I stated earlier. I have one each of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" collets. The milling machine also came with a good amount of end mills -- I'd guess at about 100+ which should keep me going a while.

I don't have any metric collets, which may or may not be a problem.

I'm now the proud owner of this suitably vintage milling machine and apart from the colour (which may or may not suit your taste) it appears to have been very well cared for and cuts surprisingly well. I've taken a few test cuts using 1/2" end mill in mild steel and the cutting was smooth and clean, something I didn't really expect as I'm used to a much larger machine (3 HP SEMCO at work).

The machine does not use a draw bar and I'm unfamiliar with the collets which I'm guessing may be difficult to source. It came with quite a lot of tooling including a few 1/4" and 1/2" collets. For smaller tooling I'm wondering about making some custom tool holders with a fixing grub screw (grinding a flat on the tool).

All comments welcome (including what colour I should paint it).

Brian

I recently purchased a part-completed Kennett tool and cutter grinder. It seems to be mostly complete apart from missing a few adjustment screws / stops and a couple of tool holders. It appears to have all the paperwork and drawings so should be relatively easy to finish.

Quite by chance I have a spare Parvalux 1/6 HP 2800 RPM motor but I still need to turn a new pulley for the motor and spindle. Should I follow the original specification (presumably for a round belt) or would it be advantageous to try something else? I will of course be keeping the pulley ratio unchanged.

The grinder (or rather, box of grinder parts) came with a number of grinding wheels some of which were damaged. The obviously damaged ones have been binned but I'm also considering what to do with the others; I realise the safest option would be to bin the lot. If buying replacements, should I consider diamond wheels rather than regular abrasive wheels?

Up until last week I always sharpened lathe tools off-hand on a small bench grinder but in addition to the Kennett I also picked up another grinder fitted with a diamond wheel and the finish is incredible.

Does anyone have drawings for a wheel guard and/or suggestions of how one could be made and fitted to the Kennett?

I can post photos if anyone is interested.

Thanks,

Brian

I bought some heavy duty bags from Lidl about 7 or 8 years ago. Still using the same ones now. They might just turn out to be bags for (my) life.

This may help. I found the clamps sold as a complete set with other parts. I'm still unsure about its purpose.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Twinner-7-Piece-Multi-Jigset-N0-1-Original-Case-Ross-Ptners-London-/203483106221?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Thanks Mike. I assumed it was some type of mechanics tool but you may well be right.

I don't think anyone would be foolish enough to pay so much for these clamps. Of course, if anyone happens to know such a fool then feel free to put them in touch!

Thanks - I had previously wondered what that hole was for. Seems like a matchstick would perform just as well as a "dauber".

I bought a pair or matching clamps from a local car boot sale. 50p each. Three of the jaws are missing (easily replaced) and I don't have an immediate use for them, but they have an excellent clamping action and appear well made.

Before I consider re-purposing or modifying them, does anyone recognise them or their original use? They are marked Twinner Multi-Jigset and 2195.

The only "information" I can find via the Internet is a number of sellers on eBay trying to sell them without any apparent knowledge of what they are for.

Not wishing to doubt your abilities (or in any way suggest mine are superior to yours), but how did you check the insulation? With a multimeter, or do you have a Megger-type 500/1000V insulation tester?

Thanks for raising this point - it's always worth rechecking.

This page (screenshot below) looks like it might be useful, but none of the linked sections/pages refer to trailers.

https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval

The next page (screenshot below) appears more useful but I suspect it may apply only to large goods trailers and not small trailers of O1 class.

https://www.gov.uk/apply-vehicle-test-certificate-lorry-trailer

Perhaps the best way forward will be to phone an approved test centre to confirm what rules actually apply.

Edited By AJAX on 27/07/2021 23:26:45

Here is something that may also be of interest - the inspection costs (which I do not believe are required in my case) seem quite reasonable.

Edited By AJAX on 27/07/2021 23:11:02

For anyone taking an interest in this thread (and wondering whether their trailer would pass inspection) I found the official IVA inspection manual quite useful.

Sounds good for your application, but maybe too heavy for my needs.

Thanks, that's just the information I was looking for. I'm now suitably put off the idea of any welding on the trailer chassis.

For reference, most of the trailer is made from U-section galvanized steel, 1/8" thick. Actually, "U-section" may be a misnomer as some has another rolled edge for stiffness. Most of the bed is constructed from 2.5" x 2" and the A-frame (bolted onto the chassis) is built from 3.5" x 1.5".

Now that you have put doubt into my mind, I will phone my insurer to check...

One thing I might mention is that after collecting this trailer with my existing lighting board, I realized that due to it's width (over 1.3 m) the lighting requirements are different to a smaller box trailer - e.g. fog lights are required, side reflector requirements, etc. Braked trailers manufactured after October 2012 also require a reversing light, which I think would be a good idea for this trailer, but perhaps not a legal requirement as I suspect it is older. In fact, since checking these rules I'll have to take another look at my nearly 50-year-old "skip" trailer to check that it is road legal.

All valid comments and I agree that some caravan / trailer-tent frames are unsuitable for conversion, but this one seems adequate for my needs. With some modification, mostly a small amount of bracing, a flat deck and some hold downs, I think it will be adaptable enough and safe to use. I plan to fabricate some bike / kayak / material carriers that can be added/removed between uses.

This trailer frame is plated 650 kg max gross weight. I don't know whether this assumes some structural integrity from the tent box framework which has been removed, but I don't plan to go anywhere near this weight.

The Al-Ko axle and 145R10 tyres seem more substantial than most I've seen on small box trailers (e.g. Erde) with the added bonus of a working brake system.

Of course, I could be wrong!

Brian

Thanks for raising this, but I expect it to be well within the limit. The trailer (Conway Products Ltd, model number CDX/93) is plated 650kg maximum gross weight and appears substantial enough for my intended uses which will mostly be limited to carrying bulky but not particularly heavy items (e.g. kayak, family bikes, sheet materials, fencing posts and rails, etc.) It happens to be braked which is nice, but maybe not essential for my intended uses.