Member postings for David-Clark 1

How do I add my advert to the forum?

I am looking for a book amongst other things.

I just got a new copy of the- book on EBay for about a fiver. Series was covered in ME, probably. IN 1970s.

I used plus gas as a lubricant for pressing out zinc washers back in the 1960s.

Hi Jordan Bowen.

A Myford Ml7 would probably serve you well.

A Myford Ml7R is similar to a Super in many ways.

if a 6 1/2 inch swing (3 1/4 centre height) is enough a good used Myford Ml10 might serve you well and would still be useful if you moved on to a llarger lathe. You should be able to pick one up on EBay for about £650.

I just picked up a very nicely equipped Myford Ml10 that was brand new, original preservative still on, with of loads of equipment for £1,000.

Ml10’s seem to have less wear than a Myford Ml7.

More safety tips.

Use a clothes peg, old spring clip type, to keep your collar shut while red hot swarf is flying around, also weak elastic bands around sleeves too stop them flapping around. Finally, a transparent face mask will keep you face covered. Woolly hat or baseball hat is good as well.

Hi Nick
I think the 1/8 dimension came from the original magazine.

Good luck with Tich. I look forward too seeing it progress.

Hi John P

Sorry for delay. Another week in hospital.

I was very pleased to publish your cutter grinder articles. The cutter you sent me was certainly very sharp.

I stopped reading Model Engineers’ Workshop just after I left. It was a tradition that previous editors received a fre copy of the magazine for life but sadly that did not happen for me.

It sounds like I am not missing anything. I will probably subscribe now I have a new workshop but would like to know if you still get access to the back issues.

I was thinking of writing some articles for the magazine so would have to have seen some recent issues. Sounds like no 300 would. Be a good start. (What not to write?)

Now why did I not think to photograph my car number plate? Doh.

To late now, no more car.

As the mill has a round tube that the head rotates on. I would suggest that you could add a loose clamp to the round tube. The collar could be bored to fit the round tube, use a split collar if you don’t want to dismantle the mill.

The collar should be round with two legs going down like an inverted U with the curved part of the U as the collar. Each leg should be drilled and tapped through so it rests on the left and right of the column. To use, unlock the U clamp so it does not stop the head tube from rotating.

Tilt the head to approximately the required angle and lock the collar on the head tube. Now using the adjusting screws you can set the angle by using a test indicator on a sine bar.

To reset the head, loosen the U clamp and straighten the head up. Lock the clamp and you can now adjust the side screws to set the head into position. Fit the pin, job done. With the U clamp left in place it will also stop the head slipping while milling. For belt and braces, make two clamps and put one each end of the round tube.

I know this might seem complicated but this is the way I would do it if I had one of these mills. It would also suit a Tom senior light vertical.

There are several photos on lathes.co.uK including a nice full colour one showing the head without any guards on.

I know this is off topic from the original post but it is a solution that would work to set the head true.

I hope someone finds it useful?

Please ignore the funny start to that sentence. I do check but iPad and spell checker combine to mess it up.

I would put a test indicator in the vertical spindle and check it in 4 positions to make sure it is true to the bed.

I’’;f you have one, use a parallel on the mill bed rather than run it across the tee slots or you might ruin the test indicator.

I don’t have one of these mills but suggest the locking not is actually used to extract the taper pin.

Welcome Nick Smartt

LBSC very eccentric. I knew someone who new him and very eccentric was correct, even 70 years later it is still true.

However, his book of words and music is excellent.

You won’t go far wrong especially with the help from this forum.

There is another forum that publishes errors in LBSC and other designers drawings. I can’t remember the name of the forum bit someone will probably post it on here. I don’t know of any errors in Tich but it is worth checking. I think the frame thickness in the magazine was different to the book but after 40 years, I can’t remember which one was thicker but I think one was 1/8 inch and the other was 3/32 inch. Theoretically if the book is correct, the distance over the frame spacers should be correct but I am sure someone on here can enlighten you.

Also, ignore any posts that say Tich is useless as it won’t pull anything. There are too many people like that. Enjoy your new hobby and come back often.I

Yes, capacitor, you can use a higher voltage capacitor but not a lower one. Depending on the way it is wired it starts the motor in the correct direction.

Watching, forgot to tick box.

This is how I did it for over 5 years, not Mercer but Batty, Maintained probably a dozen of these for 5 years.

Squirt lighter fuel down the plunger hole and push plunger in and let it come out under spring pressure.

Repeat if necessary.

Never oiled them ever.

I agree, off topic is not a problem I try and answer questions from 50+ years of experience. I find similar ideas pop into my head and write them into the post while I remember them. In turn I expect that anyone reading the post may well have their memory jogged and so it goes on.

Yes, a lazy man’s typo an not bothering to check afterwards.

I copied the syllabus in case I can do some video courses on YouTube.

Replying to A Smith’s comment.

Trileva Belts should be replaced as a set of three, not individually.

I have a new Myford oiler coming with my brand new new Ml10 lathe.
I used a silikar one when I had an Ml7 r, again brand new,

I did use a bit of paper between the oil gun nipple and the Myford nipple and it worked well. I used to buy all the oil guns from the toolbox in Devon, usually a £1 or 2 and put them on EBay for £20 each.

You might find them online.

Myford drip feed oilers.

I am not sure about the Myford Trileva but the Myford C7? Or C9? Capstan lathe had bronze bearings.

I set my Myford drip feed oilers so they dropped when the lathe was running and stopped when the lathe stopped. The slight vibration when running was enough to keep the bearings oiled. I worked on the basis that oil was cheaper than new bearings. I set the lathe up so that the tailstock end of the tray was about 1/8 inch lower than the headstock end. This was so the oil ran through and down to the tailstock end which had newspaper to soak up the old oil.

The lathe is set level.

Hi Derek Lane

is the off subject related to me?

I do wander off a bit because the more something jogs my memory, the more I might wander because something else pops up in my mind.

Being called an idiot does not bother me either. No offence taken if aimed at me amongst others.