Member postings for DiogenesII

Is that a slotted nut outboard of the small gear?

..200 tdi L-R lump.. ..still around, still being re-manufactured, good supply of spares..

It's not obvious (to me) how it's done - if no-one has a clearer idea, maybe you could try ringing Station Road and asking..

I always thought it was not so much to do with public liabilities, as the terms of the contracts entered into with the recycling companies who deal with the waste; I'm sure that they're very keen to recover every possible bit of metal that they can, even tho' they seem able to pick and choose the rest (not so keen on tyres, here, you can't dispose of them at our tip anymore)

Has anyone's Council Tax charges diminished since we contracted out recycling (and everything else)..?

You're a lucky man - you can't get anything out of ours, nothing is 'saved' once it has left the depositor's hand.

You can't even bribe the staff..

.. that's truly impressive, I can see I need to find a lot more workshop discipline if I'm to do a fraction of that before time's up..

..these builds you post are really helpful, not just the tips and advice, I mean the whole sense of directness and planning behind it.. 👍

That's a nice one - I think you've absolutely nailed the '1880's-scientific' theme there.

How many engines do you think you might have made now?

Ah, yes, I did get a sense of the 'camelback' look as it banked away and it's pretty distinctive.. Thanks for the confirmation..

Thanks Martin, that's exactly it - I had no idea such a thing even existed..

We've been a bit 'eyes to the sky' due to the Spitfire move to Kemble..

Aah, thanks, but no, I'm fairly sure this was prop-driven (of course I should have said that in my OP - sorry)

The L-39 looks fun, though.

..The sound of the plane I saw was more like a Fairey Gannet or something of that ilk and I would have thought probably a contemporary..?

What low-wing, smallish aircraft sounds like both a jet and a supercharged piston-engine combined?

..over the Cotswolds this afternoon, mid-to-dark blue beneath, clipped wings and tailplane..?

I only saw it from beneath..

Nice, it's funny how you can scour the country for months and then the ideal thing turns up on the doorstep.

Even the box looks straight which is a good sign for something from a works.

Apologies if this is a Granny & eggs situation, but have you tried rotating it around the three different hole positions on the backplate?

..there's usually a 'right' one..

..depression & suicide.. ..the future of AI..?

You are right, the X axis must be set at accurate 90* to the Y axis as a first step - the vice is just a workholding fixture, and should be set-up afterwards.

Apologies for shouting.. ..it bothered me that an elderly brass fitting subject to hydraulic pressure is 'repeatedly leaking'..

- please do satisfy yourself that it's not compromised in other ways that may be harder to detect..

If you know a brake fitting is defective, you should REPLACE IT.

..sheesh..

^^^ it might not work in the same way - running a bead around the inside of a hollow tube will 'pull it in' as it cools, and they often just drop out - we used to use the same method to get the outer races of bearings out of housings that you couldn't get a drift or puller into..

Edited By DiogenesII on 30/05/2023 20:14:42

Edited By DiogenesII on 30/05/2023 20:15:09

Could be driven off a camshaft at half engine speed?

I use just use a plain 'straight' bar (the type that used to come with Mercer / Verdict / Starrett etc) that clamps into the tool slot - it's about 1/2" X 1/4" and 2 1/2" long, with the usual type of cross-drilled sleeve for the indicator spigot at the business end.

I use quite a sensitive lever indicator, a tenths one, because a couple of thou error in smaller MT's will let you know that it isn't quite good enough when you come to fit them, and it doesn't seem to be much harder work to find a null-point with one of these than it is with a coarser one.

I set the centre height of the stylus ball by eye against the point of a tool-height gauge which seems to work well enough.

The backstop I use in the GH600 uses a fabricated brass 'cap' that screws onto the small amount of thread at the back end of the spindle, through which the screwed rod is threaded, with a 'top-hat' collar to lock it off.

The nose insert is a loose 'guide' that fits in the spindle nose to stop the rod flapping about.

I'm not saying it's the best-ever design, just offering it as food for thought..